BGT - Different spacers for front and rear wheels?

BGT - Different spacers for front and rear wheels?

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hardcastlephil

Original Poster:

352 posts

168 months

Thursday 9th January 2014
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Hi all,

As per the title really. I'm aiming to make some Dunlop style steel wheels for the BGT. I've bought a set of Rover 600 steels (15 x 6") which have an ofset of ET50. Doing my calculations this will set the wheel back from the arch 22mm, and closer to the strut by 34mm, compared to the previous wheels.

I know i will need spacers to bring them out, but ive seen other posts about people using 19mm for the rear and 15mm for the front. Should I just get 19mm for both? Is the arch different front to rear.

(If i get 19mm, the wheel centre will be approx 4mm back from the standard rostyles - so hopefully not too much difference).

Moss sell 19mm and 10mm, cant see any 15mm either, which may limit me.

All help appreciated!

Thanks

Phil

nta16

7,898 posts

240 months

Friday 10th January 2014
quotequote all
hardcastlephil said:
and closer to the strut by 34mm, compared to the previous wheels.
I'm not quite sure what you mean by this but it doesn't matter as I usually mess up the figures anyway

I do wonder even with the spacers if the steering will feel different (and this difference possibly amplified by tyre size selection)

I am a little biased as I don't lik to see 15" wheels and tyres on Bs (but having never driven a B with them on, should I get the Daily Mail?!) and to go to 6" rims too means you'll probably be looking to put on wider and lower profile tyres

I have driven a B spoilt by an 'upgrade' or two too far away from original that has totally spoilt the feel of the car

you've probably seen this or something like it already but just in case and for others - http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_bible_pg4.html

ETA: about time you edited your profile and profile photo to save confusion, I think you have a read car now?

Edited by nta16 on Friday 10th January 16:18

nta16

7,898 posts

240 months

Monday 13th January 2014
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thread bump for others to reply to title subject






Phil, well done on profile update but as well as being wrong with a 1974 manufactured car it looks wrong to have M reg on b&w plates plus the lack of reflective surface for when it's dark

hardcastlephil

Original Poster:

352 posts

168 months

Tuesday 14th January 2014
quotequote all
Hi Nigel,

Apologies this is so late - thanks for the help. I've got the wheels today, along with some spacers and will have a play over the weekend.

Im a bit of a novice, but to change the wheel studs, will I need to take the big hub nut off? I think on the front I take the whole disk/hub off the stub axle, but what about the rear - will they push out in situ?

Phil

p.s. - wrong plates I know!

nta16

7,898 posts

240 months

Wednesday 15th January 2014
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sorry Phil I don't know but there'll be plenty on here that do, perhaps a new thread on it would help

I've only changed wheel studs on my previous Spridget and current Midget (both times because somebody else over tighten them by not checking the torque that's lower than on modern cars) and then I only needed to do the front, I tapped the wheel studs with a big hammer in situ to have them come out the back and just tightened the new ones in with nuts - obviously I checked there was the room to remove and replace them in situ before I started

I will remind you that I don't recommend speeding any money on changes or improvements, unless a part change is required as part of regular service , maintenance or repair, for at least 12 months of regular use of the car throughout the year otherwise you might need that money spent for distress purchases and repairs

a full 36k-mile service/check-up ASAP staggered with use of the car should help to prevent and detect many faults before they become an issue or at least prepare you so you can plan ahead - but you've had enough experience now to know this