MGC engine removal procedure
Discussion
Looks like I've got to take the engine out of an MGC GT automatic.
Any advice on a decent workshop manual for the C or where you can get a parts list with exploded diagrams of the C specific areas.
I'm OK with the MGB procedures but as the C is a bit different I thought for a change I'd try to get the info before I start!
Any advice on a decent workshop manual for the C or where you can get a parts list with exploded diagrams of the C specific areas.
I'm OK with the MGB procedures but as the C is a bit different I thought for a change I'd try to get the info before I start!
there are a few very knowledgeable C owners on here
you can get brand new (or s/h) a paper reprint of the factory Workshop Manual - (Ref: 0005) - http://www.mgocshop.co.uk/catalog/Workshop_Manuals... (other suppliers are available)
there appears to be three books of paper reprints of the original factory Parts Lists (Ref: 0010, 0011, 0012) - http://www.mgocshop.co.uk/catalog/Online_Catalogue... (again other suppliers will be available)
if you (or owner) haven't already got a copy I'd strongly recommend you have a paper copy of the Driver's Handbook with the car or to hand as it's full of useful info about the car - (Ref: 0061) - http://www.mgocshop.co.uk/catalog/Online_Catalogue... (again other suppliers will be available)
or perhaps less expensive but IMO also less convenient than paper copies you can get all of the above publications on a DVD - http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-HMCC3008DVD - Rimmers might be the last major supply of these (?)
you can get brand new (or s/h) a paper reprint of the factory Workshop Manual - (Ref: 0005) - http://www.mgocshop.co.uk/catalog/Workshop_Manuals... (other suppliers are available)
there appears to be three books of paper reprints of the original factory Parts Lists (Ref: 0010, 0011, 0012) - http://www.mgocshop.co.uk/catalog/Online_Catalogue... (again other suppliers will be available)
if you (or owner) haven't already got a copy I'd strongly recommend you have a paper copy of the Driver's Handbook with the car or to hand as it's full of useful info about the car - (Ref: 0061) - http://www.mgocshop.co.uk/catalog/Online_Catalogue... (again other suppliers will be available)
or perhaps less expensive but IMO also less convenient than paper copies you can get all of the above publications on a DVD - http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-HMCC3008DVD - Rimmers might be the last major supply of these (?)
Edited by nta16 on Tuesday 29th October 18:20
It's not difficult it's just big and heavy.
It won't come out with the Autobox on (in my experience at least). The bonnet slam panel and the top of transmission tunnel, coupled with the brace across the bottom of the tunnel all conspire to stop it coming out, the gearbox output flange ends up tied up on that bottom brace.
So my advice is split the box from the bellhousing while the engine is still in the car.
Are you converting to manual while it's out?
What's the reason for the pull if not?
Generally it's not much different to pulling a B lump, in some ways it's easier as the rad assembly comes out nicer, the engine mounts aren't a pain like late B ones can be, all in all the weight aside it's a pleasant job, carbs and exhaust manifolds are easier removed IMO.
I can't emphasise the weight enough, a cylinder head is an uncomfortable lift, a manual flywheel and clutch are an uncomfortable lift, a crank is a noticeable weight and the block is seriously heavy. Tie those components together and you have a serious lump of weight hanging off something and it's big and ungainly to move, it won't sit on it's sump either so have a block of wood ready to steady the engine.
It won't come out with the Autobox on (in my experience at least). The bonnet slam panel and the top of transmission tunnel, coupled with the brace across the bottom of the tunnel all conspire to stop it coming out, the gearbox output flange ends up tied up on that bottom brace.
So my advice is split the box from the bellhousing while the engine is still in the car.
Are you converting to manual while it's out?
What's the reason for the pull if not?
Generally it's not much different to pulling a B lump, in some ways it's easier as the rad assembly comes out nicer, the engine mounts aren't a pain like late B ones can be, all in all the weight aside it's a pleasant job, carbs and exhaust manifolds are easier removed IMO.
I can't emphasise the weight enough, a cylinder head is an uncomfortable lift, a manual flywheel and clutch are an uncomfortable lift, a crank is a noticeable weight and the block is seriously heavy. Tie those components together and you have a serious lump of weight hanging off something and it's big and ungainly to move, it won't sit on it's sump either so have a block of wood ready to steady the engine.
wildoliver said:
It's not difficult it's just big and heavy.
It won't come out with the Autobox on (in my experience at least). The bonnet slam panel and the top of transmission tunnel, coupled with the brace across the bottom of the tunnel all conspire to stop it coming out, the gearbox output flange ends up tied up on that bottom brace.
So my advice is split the box from the bellhousing while the engine is still in the car.
Are you converting to manual while it's out?
What's the reason for the pull if not?
Generally it's not much different to pulling a B lump, in some ways it's easier as the rad assembly comes out nicer, the engine mounts aren't a pain like late B ones can be, all in all the weight aside it's a pleasant job, carbs and exhaust manifolds are easier removed IMO.
I can't emphasise the weight enough, a cylinder head is an uncomfortable lift, a manual flywheel and clutch are an uncomfortable lift, a crank is a noticeable weight and the block is seriously heavy. Tie those components together and you have a serious lump of weight hanging off something and it's big and ungainly to move, it won't sit on it's sump either so have a block of wood ready to steady the engine.
Been advised by Colne Classics to take the box out with the engine!It won't come out with the Autobox on (in my experience at least). The bonnet slam panel and the top of transmission tunnel, coupled with the brace across the bottom of the tunnel all conspire to stop it coming out, the gearbox output flange ends up tied up on that bottom brace.
So my advice is split the box from the bellhousing while the engine is still in the car.
Are you converting to manual while it's out?
What's the reason for the pull if not?
Generally it's not much different to pulling a B lump, in some ways it's easier as the rad assembly comes out nicer, the engine mounts aren't a pain like late B ones can be, all in all the weight aside it's a pleasant job, carbs and exhaust manifolds are easier removed IMO.
I can't emphasise the weight enough, a cylinder head is an uncomfortable lift, a manual flywheel and clutch are an uncomfortable lift, a crank is a noticeable weight and the block is seriously heavy. Tie those components together and you have a serious lump of weight hanging off something and it's big and ungainly to move, it won't sit on it's sump either so have a block of wood ready to steady the engine.
Not doing a manual conversion - it's a car for my Mrs and she's bored with having to change gears.
Engine's coming out as it's smoking.
Car's been stored for several years and the thinking is that, when initial efforts were made to test if the engine was seized a ring may have got damaged. The bores weren't soaked in oil until they'd confirmed it wasn't seized solid!
I'm going to try the budget fix first of :-
- Engine out
- Head off
- New stem seals in head
- Pistons out and new rings fitted
- Glaze bust the bores
- Reassemble and try
If this fails then it's engine out again for a professional to do it properly.
I strongly recommend you get a copy of the Driver's Handbook if you haven't already got (the correct) one as you and your wife will find the info very useful, it's not just how to operate the buttons on the dash, although that's not always as straight forward as it seems, it also covers much other useful info including the service schedule (and how to do it)
only tonight a Spridget owner discovered he'd got the answer to a problem he has in the DH but he hadn't thought to look there (plus it was the correct answer rather than some you get from the net or pub bar)
paper copy of the Driver's Handbook - (Ref: 0061) - http://www.mgocshop.co.uk/catalog/Online_Catalogue...
only tonight a Spridget owner discovered he'd got the answer to a problem he has in the DH but he hadn't thought to look there (plus it was the correct answer rather than some you get from the net or pub bar)
paper copy of the Driver's Handbook - (Ref: 0061) - http://www.mgocshop.co.uk/catalog/Online_Catalogue...
Edited by nta16 on Wednesday 30th October 03:15
Well maybe Simon has found a way to do it, but I've never managed to remove an Auto C engine and box in one shot, a lot of the American lads remove the slam panel and modify it to be bolt in, given that most of the US cars are Auto I suspect I'm far from the only one. I have pulled more than my fair share of C engines by the way.
But by all means give it a try, if you get it all moving around on the end of a engine crane it at least makes getting at the top bellhousing bolts a lot easier!
I would also suggest pulling the head off with the engine in situ, but first would do a compression/leakdown test on the engine, if it has good compression then chances are it's valve guides, if the compressions crap on one cylinder then yes your going to be stuck with a rebuild, but at least if the compressions good you can pull the head and rebuild it a lot easier than pulling the engine, and also check the wear ridge and bores at the same time.
ETA: I have managed it once, but I did bend the slam panel doing it.
But by all means give it a try, if you get it all moving around on the end of a engine crane it at least makes getting at the top bellhousing bolts a lot easier!
I would also suggest pulling the head off with the engine in situ, but first would do a compression/leakdown test on the engine, if it has good compression then chances are it's valve guides, if the compressions crap on one cylinder then yes your going to be stuck with a rebuild, but at least if the compressions good you can pull the head and rebuild it a lot easier than pulling the engine, and also check the wear ridge and bores at the same time.
ETA: I have managed it once, but I did bend the slam panel doing it.
Thanks for the advice guys.
Car gets delivered tomorrow so I'm going to have to decide pretty soon whether I give the "whole lump in one" suggestion a go.
Methinks I will probably follow the leakdown test in situ and head-off (possibly) option as a primary choice.
I just don't find the idea of that much iron swinging around and trying not to leave the engine bay very appetising.
Can't wait to get the car though.
27 years of factory V8's and 1800's and at last I get the car everyone convinced me I should avoid
Car gets delivered tomorrow so I'm going to have to decide pretty soon whether I give the "whole lump in one" suggestion a go.
Methinks I will probably follow the leakdown test in situ and head-off (possibly) option as a primary choice.
I just don't find the idea of that much iron swinging around and trying not to leave the engine bay very appetising.
Can't wait to get the car though.
27 years of factory V8's and 1800's and at last I get the car everyone convinced me I should avoid
Looks like I don't need to take the engine out ....... yet!
Passed the exhaust visual test on the MOT with an advise so I'll smoke her around (literally) for a while.
All I've got to do now is weld the sills a bit, replace the speedometer drive, main fuel pipe, rear brake flexi hose, indicator switch, tyres and all the other stuff on the multi-page failure sheet.
On the plus side she does drive nice.
Passed the exhaust visual test on the MOT with an advise so I'll smoke her around (literally) for a while.
All I've got to do now is weld the sills a bit, replace the speedometer drive, main fuel pipe, rear brake flexi hose, indicator switch, tyres and all the other stuff on the multi-page failure sheet.
On the plus side she does drive nice.
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