Midget help again please!
Discussion
Hi All
Well its all gone pear shaped yet again. I ran the car over the weekend all was going well up until the missfire returned. Compression test etc has confirmed head gasket failure yet again.
The obvious thing I suppose would be a warped or damaged head. The thing is ive checked again tonight and it seems fine.
I was unable to do any work to the car earlier in the week due to being away with work. But fearing the worst I started to look around for a reconditioned head just in case. I have found a couple of unleaded units for around £260. While I was looking I found one in an advert that said it cane with a gasket for a recessed block. I contacted the seller and he advised that early blocks were flat and some later ones were recessed.
Could it be that I've just fitted the wrong gasket? I just picked a set up from our local MG dealer.
Any other ideas on how I should rectify this nightmare would be greatly appreciated.
Please take a look at the pics. The previous failure was between one and two. This one is between 3 and 4 but the slim rings inbetween 1 and 2 also look almost gone?
Well its all gone pear shaped yet again. I ran the car over the weekend all was going well up until the missfire returned. Compression test etc has confirmed head gasket failure yet again.
The obvious thing I suppose would be a warped or damaged head. The thing is ive checked again tonight and it seems fine.
I was unable to do any work to the car earlier in the week due to being away with work. But fearing the worst I started to look around for a reconditioned head just in case. I have found a couple of unleaded units for around £260. While I was looking I found one in an advert that said it cane with a gasket for a recessed block. I contacted the seller and he advised that early blocks were flat and some later ones were recessed.
Could it be that I've just fitted the wrong gasket? I just picked a set up from our local MG dealer.
Any other ideas on how I should rectify this nightmare would be greatly appreciated.
Please take a look at the pics. The previous failure was between one and two. This one is between 3 and 4 but the slim rings inbetween 1 and 2 also look almost gone?
Is that a composite gasket? Should be good.
I see you're using studs - should be good.
The thin gap between 1 & 2 is extremely thin - compared with on the Rv8 there's hardly any room. So I imagine it's quite vulnerable.
Have you calibrated your torque wrench - I did with mine an it was 20lbf too low. I have had it quite a while and it's probably a little worn.
I calibrated it using a set of known weights and clamping the end in a vice. After I identified it was too low I then borrowed one from a mechanic mate (that was calibrated) and checked the tightness alternating the two on the same stud.
I see you're using studs - should be good.
The thin gap between 1 & 2 is extremely thin - compared with on the Rv8 there's hardly any room. So I imagine it's quite vulnerable.
Have you calibrated your torque wrench - I did with mine an it was 20lbf too low. I have had it quite a while and it's probably a little worn.
I calibrated it using a set of known weights and clamping the end in a vice. After I identified it was too low I then borrowed one from a mechanic mate (that was calibrated) and checked the tightness alternating the two on the same stud.
Ring phil at the mg centre at Wrexham , where I brought a load of bits for my project, he knows everything about midgets and MGB. He will give you a honest opinion. Number is 01978 263445. But check all the waterways head and block for blockages, as if one end is cold and the other hot, it will warp under heat, hence why it seems ok for a while, plate glass is the way to check for warping. Dolomite sprints had the warping problem through heat differential , but doubt if austin series engines had the same problem, but blockages anywhere will make a difference
Karl,
Dave's just been all thorough this with his 1500 engine so there are threads on it on the MG BBS
John Twist vids will show recessed gaskets and how to torque and check torque the head
obviously you have to check the head for flatness across all angles, I think Dave's now gone with the Payen gasket and head re-tightening procedure originally suggested for his first hgf
Dave's just been all thorough this with his 1500 engine so there are threads on it on the MG BBS
John Twist vids will show recessed gaskets and how to torque and check torque the head
obviously you have to check the head for flatness across all angles, I think Dave's now gone with the Payen gasket and head re-tightening procedure originally suggested for his first hgf
If it helps you.
I didn't really want to sell this, but at the same time I also knew it needed to go at some point as I'm getting out of Midgets.
I have an engine that I've had for nigh on 20 years, I bought the car it was initially in from London with my dad when I was in my early teens, we restored the car, but put a standard lump in.
The engine had been lightly breathed on by Oselli, I think I still have the original receipt, it was obtained from Ivor Searle and then had some extra work done on it as he had all the work on the car done by Oselli.
I've used it as my competition and road car engine for circa 15 years, it's done plenty of miles both on sprints/hillclimbs/autotests/autosolos and the road. It's been through 4 different cars and never let me down once. But it's a clean engine (oil comes out as clean as it goes in) it's absolutely solid, never had the head off this engine. Fantastic oil pressure runs at circa 80psi from memory, ticks over hot at around 45psi.
Very lively and keen to rev, comes with a matched set of carbs, engine has had a bit of detailing to pretty it up recently by way of a refurbed rocker box and air filter housing. Comes with a new oil filter and new air filters. Basically it's a swing your old engine out and swing this one in job.
I wouldn't want that much more for it than that head you've found. Factor in the hassle of doing the gasket change again, possibly the issue not being the head and being the block and being back at stage 1, it could potentially save you a lot of money. I also have a LCB manifold that can go with it and an exhaust I made for the last Midget with a bomb rear box.
It would need collecting from East Yorkshire but it's not that far, I have a hoist this end to lift it in and it would fit in most car boots, indeed I once carried one in a Midget!
Offers there if you want it.
I didn't really want to sell this, but at the same time I also knew it needed to go at some point as I'm getting out of Midgets.
I have an engine that I've had for nigh on 20 years, I bought the car it was initially in from London with my dad when I was in my early teens, we restored the car, but put a standard lump in.
The engine had been lightly breathed on by Oselli, I think I still have the original receipt, it was obtained from Ivor Searle and then had some extra work done on it as he had all the work on the car done by Oselli.
I've used it as my competition and road car engine for circa 15 years, it's done plenty of miles both on sprints/hillclimbs/autotests/autosolos and the road. It's been through 4 different cars and never let me down once. But it's a clean engine (oil comes out as clean as it goes in) it's absolutely solid, never had the head off this engine. Fantastic oil pressure runs at circa 80psi from memory, ticks over hot at around 45psi.
Very lively and keen to rev, comes with a matched set of carbs, engine has had a bit of detailing to pretty it up recently by way of a refurbed rocker box and air filter housing. Comes with a new oil filter and new air filters. Basically it's a swing your old engine out and swing this one in job.
I wouldn't want that much more for it than that head you've found. Factor in the hassle of doing the gasket change again, possibly the issue not being the head and being the block and being back at stage 1, it could potentially save you a lot of money. I also have a LCB manifold that can go with it and an exhaust I made for the last Midget with a bomb rear box.
It would need collecting from East Yorkshire but it's not that far, I have a hoist this end to lift it in and it would fit in most car boots, indeed I once carried one in a Midget!
Offers there if you want it.
Yup well known fact these engines blow up without a cooler 
I have a hatred of oil coolers. Sometimes they are necessary, if you have an engine that is genuinely getting it's oil too hot and it's breaking down then you have no choice but to fit an oil cooler, but sadly due to the ethos through the 60's and 70's that cars with an oil cooler and twin carbs were performance versions it's ingrained in peoples minds now that without an oil cooler a car can't be driven hard.
I have an MGB with an oil cooler (factory) and an MGB without (factory). The MGB without oil cooler is quicker, driven harder and was originally supplied out to california, not a climate renowned for cold temperatures. Does the non oil cooler car suffer oil break down? No, does it run hot? No.
Oil coolers give a fantastic source of oil leaks, a vulnerable matrix prone to damage plus a lovely trap for particles of swarf if the cooler is ever used on an engine that goes bang. So often people fit a used cooler, or replace an engine in their car but not the cooler and shortly after the otherwise good engine goes pop, why? Because the old cooler was full of crap. New engine - new cooler - flush all oil lines, and half the time it's an unnecessary expense because they didn't need it in the first place.
Don't even get me started on weber carbs.
I have a hatred of oil coolers. Sometimes they are necessary, if you have an engine that is genuinely getting it's oil too hot and it's breaking down then you have no choice but to fit an oil cooler, but sadly due to the ethos through the 60's and 70's that cars with an oil cooler and twin carbs were performance versions it's ingrained in peoples minds now that without an oil cooler a car can't be driven hard.
I have an MGB with an oil cooler (factory) and an MGB without (factory). The MGB without oil cooler is quicker, driven harder and was originally supplied out to california, not a climate renowned for cold temperatures. Does the non oil cooler car suffer oil break down? No, does it run hot? No.
Oil coolers give a fantastic source of oil leaks, a vulnerable matrix prone to damage plus a lovely trap for particles of swarf if the cooler is ever used on an engine that goes bang. So often people fit a used cooler, or replace an engine in their car but not the cooler and shortly after the otherwise good engine goes pop, why? Because the old cooler was full of crap. New engine - new cooler - flush all oil lines, and half the time it's an unnecessary expense because they didn't need it in the first place.
Don't even get me started on weber carbs.
plus removing something that's partially blocking the 'water' coolant radiator means that will get a bit more cooling air to it and this help it work a little better
old oil and crud is left in the oil cooler at every oil change
they're not blocked off during cold weather
no I'm not a fan either
but without them it seems most road use B and Midget 1500 owners have engines in such poor condition that oil coolers are needed - or they will blow up
. . . and so will their engines
old oil and crud is left in the oil cooler at every oil change
they're not blocked off during cold weather
no I'm not a fan either
but without them it seems most road use B and Midget 1500 owners have engines in such poor condition that oil coolers are needed - or they will blow up
. . . and so will their engines
time to fully clean and flush and back flush and shake repeatedly until fully clean your radiator and heater matrix, renew all seals and foams in and to heater box, clean and check heater fan motor and fan, brush clean matrix and radiator fins
replace as required hoses and round-edged jubilee clips, coolant pressure cap, fan belt
as recent new rubber cooling hoses tend to be poor quality you may also want to change your existing rubber hoses set to silicone with rounded-edge clips - http://www.classicsiliconehoses.com/
as it's amazing how much crud can be inside an engine I'd also ask WO on the engine block if it's worth flushing and back flushing and using a piece of thick wire to clear out the crud that collects at the engine block drain hole whilst draining old coolant and flushing out
and as they're inexpensive I'd also inquire about whether the water pump might need changing
personally I like to use 4-LIFE coolant, it’s put in undiluted and its main benefit to me is that it shows up exactly where even small leaks originate and has a 10 year life - but it's best used on a cooling/heating system in good condition as it will find leaks in a weak system
benefits:
• boiling point of 180 degrees C at 15 psi
• down to -42 degrees C
• preserves rubber hoses
• gives protection from frost expansion damage
• PH balanced with no acidic impurities or lime scale
• no coolant loss though evaporation
• anti-foam agent to prevents engine hot-spots.
• warns of head gasket failure by changing colour
• 10 years protection
a clean cooling/heating system and all parts and components in good condition with good hoses (silicone) and 4-LIFE then that's been dealt with and working well for hopefully at least 10 years
(and it'll help to keep away any perceived or actual need for an oil cooler to remain or be refitted
replace as required hoses and round-edged jubilee clips, coolant pressure cap, fan belt
as recent new rubber cooling hoses tend to be poor quality you may also want to change your existing rubber hoses set to silicone with rounded-edge clips - http://www.classicsiliconehoses.com/
as it's amazing how much crud can be inside an engine I'd also ask WO on the engine block if it's worth flushing and back flushing and using a piece of thick wire to clear out the crud that collects at the engine block drain hole whilst draining old coolant and flushing out
and as they're inexpensive I'd also inquire about whether the water pump might need changing
personally I like to use 4-LIFE coolant, it’s put in undiluted and its main benefit to me is that it shows up exactly where even small leaks originate and has a 10 year life - but it's best used on a cooling/heating system in good condition as it will find leaks in a weak system
benefits:
• boiling point of 180 degrees C at 15 psi
• down to -42 degrees C
• preserves rubber hoses
• gives protection from frost expansion damage
• PH balanced with no acidic impurities or lime scale
• no coolant loss though evaporation
• anti-foam agent to prevents engine hot-spots.
• warns of head gasket failure by changing colour
• 10 years protection
a clean cooling/heating system and all parts and components in good condition with good hoses (silicone) and 4-LIFE then that's been dealt with and working well for hopefully at least 10 years
(and it'll help to keep away any perceived or actual need for an oil cooler to remain or be refitted
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