I've still got clutch trouble?

[Yatesy350i]

Guy's

I am still having clutch trouble. The box had been replaced and it did come with a slightly longer slave pin than the old one. But there just dosn't seem to be enoough travel on the master cylinder to fully release the clutch. I am 100% confident that there is no air in the system. There seems to be no wear in the clevice pin attachment to the slave.

Depress the clutch and i can just about get all four gears without a crunch. Reverse won't have it?

Lift the pedal just 5mm any you are on your way.

Any ideas please?

MS is brand new. SS has had seals replaced. New fluid etc.

Cheers Karl

[nta16]

Karl,
I guess you mean MC and SC

have look on the MG BBS clutch problems after work are not uncommon see the various threads for the various possible solutions on 1500s

or if you don't get an answer here that works try posting there

[jagracer]

If the pin is different put the old pin in the new slave cylinder or is there any way of adjusting it. When the clutch is not depressed is there a bit of free play in the pin at the sc?

Edited by jagracer on Monday 3rd June 17:18

[nta16]

I had a thought, so had to go and lie down to recover but now I've recovered, and I might be misreading your post and this a total red herring -

did you check the clutch pedal and/or pedal bush for ovaling or the pedal being distorted

sometimes heard of release arm being bent(?)/cracked so restricting full movement

a second thought just arrived there, I've got to go and lie down again

[Yatesy350i]

Hi Nigel

Sorry you would thinkninwould know how to spell cylinder being an ex scuba diver!

I've just had another go at bleeding just to be sure. Still no air in there. I've just had a look at the pedals and was just about to report back when I read your post above. The clutch pedal is at least 2" lower/closer to the bulk head than the brake pedal. Is this normal. I've got a pic in the Haynes manual of a 1275 and they seem equal height?

If I could get an inch more travel on the pedal all would be fine. But I hit the bulkhead way to soon. Can someone with a 1500 please have a look at their pedal height compared with the brake.

Your thoughts again would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers Karl.

[Yatesy350i]

The pushrod on my new master cylinder seems about 8mm shorter than it should be to make the pedals level?

[perdu]

I don't know for sure, but have heard (somewhere, maybe the MGE BBS Midget and Sprite boards) of new cylinders coming with non OE spec pistons which may be drilled deeper than the originals and need a different push rod

I wonder if you could put the old pushrod back in the new cylinder and maybe get back the missing travel

It looks likely that a mismatch is causing the trouble

Before you do anything expensive call your supplier and tell him he has fouled up, "proper job done on refitting but no pedal now"

Maybe he can supply a pushrod of different proportions which will fix it

[Dbest92]

Did this job on mine last year, mine turned out to be a slave cylinder leak, but it did take a quite a while for the new seals/cylinders to bed in. My clutch pedal seems a little higher than my brake pedal as a result, included some pics of my pedal position


[url]

|http://thumbsnap.com/MwWCFGFf[/url]

[nta16]

don't forget to oil the accelerator pedal linkage points during a service Darren

[Yatesy350i]

Gents

I no longer have clutch problems. I now have a slightly longer push rod which works perfectly. I knew there was no air in there. Must have done 2 litres of fluid

Many thanks for all your help and advice.

Karl.