Power steering from MGOC fitting problems
Discussion
I am in the process of fitting a power steering kit from MGOC to my (CB) MGB GT
There have been many issues so far, but I have managed to get through to this point where I am now trying to fit the rack, but it just will not go!
I could describe the problems here at some length, but there seems little point if no one here has fitted the same kit. So is there anyone from the 400 odd kits sold so far reading this? If so I will post my problems for your advice.
I will be getting back in touch with MGOC, but I would very much like to discuss this with another owner.
Cheers
Andrew
There have been many issues so far, but I have managed to get through to this point where I am now trying to fit the rack, but it just will not go!
I could describe the problems here at some length, but there seems little point if no one here has fitted the same kit. So is there anyone from the 400 odd kits sold so far reading this? If so I will post my problems for your advice.
I will be getting back in touch with MGOC, but I would very much like to discuss this with another owner.
Cheers
Andrew
I am trying to fit the rack but it just will not go. The instructions did not say to weld the spacers to ‘plate A’ (the new mounting plate for the new rack) before welding it to the sub-frame, so I did not. However that should not have changed the position of the base for the rack as the position of the mounting of the rack is determined by the jig and should be the same with or without the spacers. Now when I offer up the rack to the modified sub-frame, the cast alloy body (where the steering column enters) slightly fouls the sub-frame, as if the spacers should be added AFTER the jig is removed, but if I try to add the spacers now, the other end of the rack fouls the chassis on (drivers) left side. But still, the rack can be bolted down despite the slight clash of the rack and the sub-frame. The new lower steering column section is attached to the rack before fitting to the car, but when then I place them in position and bolt the rack down, two things happen that are not right. Firstly the steering column goes up into the upper universal joint by about half an inch too much, which means the fastening bolt can then not be fitted because the splinned shaft end has two sets of splines which the bolt should go between. (This might indicate that the rack should be further forward, but if it were further forward, that would only exasperate the second problem). Secondly, the lower UJ clonks against the chassis when the wheel is turned and prevents free rotation of the steering. I (and my mechanic) are at a loss as to how this rack could ever fit in this space properly without it either being fitted non-centrally, or out of parallel, or without bashing a dent into the chassis to prevent the lower UJ hitting it.
I have some video showing the problem, which I will try to upload asap.
I will be getting back in touch with MGOC, but I would very much like to discuss this with another owner.
Cheers
Andrew
I have some video showing the problem, which I will try to upload asap.
I will be getting back in touch with MGOC, but I would very much like to discuss this with another owner.
Cheers
Andrew
Edited by skiday on Monday 13th May 11:13
OK. Update on the situation.
I was not aware that there was any forwards/backwards movement possible of the shaft within the steering column between the steering wheel and the upper universal joint. I tried moving it back and forth and there is about an inch of movement so that solves the first problem. Having spoken to David Skulthorpe at MGOC this morning, I said that I could not see how the lower UJ could move freely without bashing a dent into the chassis where it rubs. He said that would be a perfectly acceptable solution, and one that their workshops have performed before. So after releasing the engine mount on that side and raising the engine a little to gain better access (which is only something I could do because I have the facilities in my mechanics workshop, were I doing the job at home that would have been very difficult) I then bashed a dent in the chassis and am painting it back up. I don’t see this as an ideal solution, and if it is something that has to be done in most cases for the kit to fit, then shouldn’t there be a mention of it in the instructions?
However I am pleased to say that David Skulthorpe could not have been nicer to me in addressing these issues. Thankfully he did not say; (as some other companies I have dealt with in the past have) “We’ve sold 400 of these kits and you’re the first person to complain.” He listened to all my issues and has said that MGOC are committed to ensuring that I am totally satisfied and that all issues I have raised will be looked at and addressed to ensure that all forthcoming customers will have a better experience. And (get this) he even offered to send me a pre-modified cross-member to examine, or even use in place of mine. Thankfully that won’t be needed now.
If anyone wishes to purchase MGOC power steering, then let me know and I can give you the lowdown on the pitfalls. The first of which would be to check your kingpins first. One of mine was in terrible shape because the grease nipple on the lower trunion had been lost and water had gone up the hole and rust had set in. I could barely move it with both hands. No wonder the steering was heavy! Go and grease you nipples NOW!
Cheers
Andrew
P.S. seventh-heaven, thanks for the offer of help but perhaps you would sign your name, it’s so much nicer to converse with people by name rather than login details.
I was not aware that there was any forwards/backwards movement possible of the shaft within the steering column between the steering wheel and the upper universal joint. I tried moving it back and forth and there is about an inch of movement so that solves the first problem. Having spoken to David Skulthorpe at MGOC this morning, I said that I could not see how the lower UJ could move freely without bashing a dent into the chassis where it rubs. He said that would be a perfectly acceptable solution, and one that their workshops have performed before. So after releasing the engine mount on that side and raising the engine a little to gain better access (which is only something I could do because I have the facilities in my mechanics workshop, were I doing the job at home that would have been very difficult) I then bashed a dent in the chassis and am painting it back up. I don’t see this as an ideal solution, and if it is something that has to be done in most cases for the kit to fit, then shouldn’t there be a mention of it in the instructions?
However I am pleased to say that David Skulthorpe could not have been nicer to me in addressing these issues. Thankfully he did not say; (as some other companies I have dealt with in the past have) “We’ve sold 400 of these kits and you’re the first person to complain.” He listened to all my issues and has said that MGOC are committed to ensuring that I am totally satisfied and that all issues I have raised will be looked at and addressed to ensure that all forthcoming customers will have a better experience. And (get this) he even offered to send me a pre-modified cross-member to examine, or even use in place of mine. Thankfully that won’t be needed now.
If anyone wishes to purchase MGOC power steering, then let me know and I can give you the lowdown on the pitfalls. The first of which would be to check your kingpins first. One of mine was in terrible shape because the grease nipple on the lower trunion had been lost and water had gone up the hole and rust had set in. I could barely move it with both hands. No wonder the steering was heavy! Go and grease you nipples NOW!
Cheers
Andrew
P.S. seventh-heaven, thanks for the offer of help but perhaps you would sign your name, it’s so much nicer to converse with people by name rather than login details.
Good to see you made progress.
Clearance around the lower UJ was a problem for me aswell, in my case where the shaft goes through the engine mount. The shoulders of the UJ where catching on the mount and chassis. The solution was to grind a small amount of material off the shoulders and now it fits fine! I also found a very helpful attitude from the MGOC when I raised my problems.
Regards
Andy
Clearance around the lower UJ was a problem for me aswell, in my case where the shaft goes through the engine mount. The shoulders of the UJ where catching on the mount and chassis. The solution was to grind a small amount of material off the shoulders and now it fits fine! I also found a very helpful attitude from the MGOC when I raised my problems.
Regards
Andy
Hi Andy
It is interesting that you brought up issues up with MGOC and that they were helpful, but they then did not add anything into the instructions to say that some 'easing' of the bodywork may be required in order for clearence of the lower UJ. I would have thought that most people's reaction to the UJ fouling either the chassis or the engine mounts would be that there is something wrong with the kit, not to start grinding metal away or bashing dents!
By the way, how is the alignment between the pulley of your pump and the pulley of the alternator? I found that the forward plate of the pump had the lower bolt hole in the wrong place putting the pump out of square and had to cut and re-shape the plate to get the pump square and the pulleys to align exactly and to allow the fitting of the pump without 'jimmying' the bolts it.
Anyways, I should be done and back on the road by the weekend with a bit of luck.
Cheers
Andrew
It is interesting that you brought up issues up with MGOC and that they were helpful, but they then did not add anything into the instructions to say that some 'easing' of the bodywork may be required in order for clearence of the lower UJ. I would have thought that most people's reaction to the UJ fouling either the chassis or the engine mounts would be that there is something wrong with the kit, not to start grinding metal away or bashing dents!
By the way, how is the alignment between the pulley of your pump and the pulley of the alternator? I found that the forward plate of the pump had the lower bolt hole in the wrong place putting the pump out of square and had to cut and re-shape the plate to get the pump square and the pulleys to align exactly and to allow the fitting of the pump without 'jimmying' the bolts it.
Anyways, I should be done and back on the road by the weekend with a bit of luck.
Cheers
Andrew
HI Andy
When you do, you will find that the forward mounting plate of the pump is the wrong shape. The distance, center to center, of the holes for the lower bolt, which also holds the alternator, and the hole from the bracket on the thermostat housing is 119mm. The distance on the plate is 115mm leaving you about half a bolt thickness out. I chose to adapt the plate by cutting it and welding it back together in the right place, but it is possible 'jimmy' it in with a good deal of force, (which is what most people must have done) but if you do that, it will be out of parallel with the pulley bellow. If you’re not happy with a wonkey pump then I can give you a blueprint to correct the plate.
I Started the car today for the first time with the power steering in and fluid came dripping out of one of the joints of the pipe and unit that are pre-assembled and which I did not touch, so you might want to check all pipe joints to be sure they are tight.
Good luck.
When you do, you will find that the forward mounting plate of the pump is the wrong shape. The distance, center to center, of the holes for the lower bolt, which also holds the alternator, and the hole from the bracket on the thermostat housing is 119mm. The distance on the plate is 115mm leaving you about half a bolt thickness out. I chose to adapt the plate by cutting it and welding it back together in the right place, but it is possible 'jimmy' it in with a good deal of force, (which is what most people must have done) but if you do that, it will be out of parallel with the pulley bellow. If you’re not happy with a wonkey pump then I can give you a blueprint to correct the plate.
I Started the car today for the first time with the power steering in and fluid came dripping out of one of the joints of the pipe and unit that are pre-assembled and which I did not touch, so you might want to check all pipe joints to be sure they are tight.
Good luck.
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