Clutch pedal/bleeding

[Yatesy350i]

Hi All

I'm still progressing with my Midget service/restoration. Since collecting the car I've always thought the clutch bite was extremely low on the pedal. Literally lift the pedal a few mill and your on your way!

So last night I thought is this down to poor fluid or maybee even a minute amount of air in the system? So I decided to drain and replace the fluid. WHAT AND ABSOULTE #### to bleed! To the point after two hours I gave up and ordered a new master cylinder and slave cylinder service kit.

Replaced all the goodies today and then spent about 3 hours using every method known to man trying to bleed the system. Even invented a new one I think

And after all that and the new bits and no air in the system the Bl&&dy pedal still feels about the same as it did before I started. Even considered getting the flailing kit out and replacing the proxy clear pipe with copper at one stage. But then realised I hadn't got the fittings.

Is this normal? The clutch seems to work perfectly but it's very close to the floor.

Thanks again for any advice.

Karl.

[SMGB]

On the MGB the bleed nipple is cunningly placed so you cant gat all the air out of the slave cylinder. Leaving the pedal jammed down overnight has worked for some people. I have also heard of filling the system via the bleed nipple. Mine came up fine using an eezibleed. Can you neasure the actual stroke you are getting at the slave?

[Yatesy350i]

I used an ezebleed.

Gave up

Filled from the nipple with a massive syringe.

Gave up.

Had a massive air bubble that we could see just on the end of the MS. Disconnected the hose. Filled from nipple with hose verticle the reconnected. Had a pedal of sorts.

Bleed at lot in the old fashioned two man method and that's the best we got.

So should I go and ramp the earl down ver night?

Cheers Karl

[pikeyboy]

Midget and sprite clutches are messy to bleed. I always make up s copper pipe and put an extension on the slave cylinder bleed nipple to bring it up to under the battery tray heater area. Then you dont need to get under the car and get soaked in fluid.

[NBTBRV8]

Have you had a vacuum pump on the nipple to pull the fluid down? Also as silly as it sounds, leave the cap off the reservoir overnight.

[nta16]

have a look on the MG BBS (and Archive) as bleeding the clutch is a very common query and there are a few good different ideas of how to do it

you must specific when asking questions and ordering parts that its a 1500 and the year as Midgets varied quite a bit over the years for parts and of course the 1500 had a lot of differences to the earlier models (and within the different years of 1500s)

ETA: service kits are not always effective to repair the MC at least, MC needs a good inspection to check its condition also the pin on the slave can sometimes be the wrong size or set wrong ignore that bit its for 1275s

Edited by nta16 on Sunday 12th May 11:30

[Yatesy350i]

Guys

I am now convinced there is no air in the system. The pedal feels very good! It just seems that the stroke is not quite long enough the bite point is still on the floor. Any ideas?

Cheers Karl.

[nta16]

see my previous post

[NBTBRV8]

Yatesy350i said:

Guys

I am now convinced there is no air in the system. The pedal feels very good! It just seems that the stroke is not quite long enough the bite point is still on the floor. Any ideas?

Cheers Karl.

The bite point is meant to be low down in the pedal travel of an MG. When they wear the bite point is at the top of the pedal travel.

[Yatesy350i]

NBTBRV8 said:

The bite point is meant to be low down in the pedal travel of an MG. When they wear the bite point is at the top of the pedal travel.

But this is on the boards mate. So low you can't always get a gear?

Stupid question. Can't tell from the manual. Should the bleed nipple be at the top or bottom of the slave cylinder. Mine is ate the bottom. But cat see how you would access it otherwise.

Cheers Karl

[NBTBRV8]

So how much travel does the clutch fork have when you press the pedal? When you bleed it from the nipple are you still getting air?

[perdu]

Clear pipe? The red plastic pipe I suppose you mean, so there is a known problem with the 1500 gearbox/clutch interface on this gearbox

Posh words huh

The bolt that holds the pivot in place on the gearbox is known for either falling out and causing "hardly any pedal"itis or for wearing badly in situ but not allowing the full pivot movement because of lost motion even if it doesn't fall out

Have a look at the condition (and existence) of the bolt

This might have some bearing on your problem

Good luck with it

b

[Yatesy350i]

perdu said:

Clear pipe? The red plastic pipe I suppose you mean, so there is a known problem with the 1500 gearbox/clutch interface on this gearbox

Posh words huh

The bolt that holds the pivot in place on the gearbox is known for either falling out and causing "hardly any pedal"itis or for wearing badly in situ but not allowing the full pivot movement because of lost motion even if it doesn't fall out

Have a look at the condition (and existence) of the bolt

This might have some bearing on your problem

Good luck with it

b

Thanks Mate

Will do. Just got back from picking up a replacement gearbox from Devon! What a trek but it was cheap and it is supposed to be a good one. This one has the slave cylinder on and the bleed nipple is in the opposite place to mine. So maybe my clutch issue is down to that as well?

Anyway machine mart here I come I need and engine hoist.

Karl.