Replace Oil Relief Spring
Discussion
I'm getting ready to replace the oil pressure relief spring on my 1977 Midget to hopefully improve the oil pressure.
I'm hoping to avoid a engine re-build at this time.
When I remove the cap which seems fairly bi, do the guts stay in place or do I have to worry about the spring valve etc. flying out of the hole with damage to the threads and so on. Or is it a civilized operation with the cap uncrewing and the valve, spring etc. staying put inside the engine.
I'm hoping to avoid a engine re-build at this time.
When I remove the cap which seems fairly bi, do the guts stay in place or do I have to worry about the spring valve etc. flying out of the hole with damage to the threads and so on. Or is it a civilized operation with the cap uncrewing and the valve, spring etc. staying put inside the engine.
I can only comment on the A-series, as I was adjusting mine not long ago for the turbo I fitted on.
Basically no realy shock, nut out, some slight pressure from the spring but it didnt come flying out just sticks out enought to pull out. Otherend of spring you will find the metal cup that goes into the vanes in the engine.
Refitting is easy, unless its a realy strong spring, or packed out with washers and then you might find it a bit tricky to push and screw back in.
There will only be a tiny bit of oil, and I mean tiny.
Basically no realy shock, nut out, some slight pressure from the spring but it didnt come flying out just sticks out enought to pull out. Otherend of spring you will find the metal cup that goes into the vanes in the engine.
Refitting is easy, unless its a realy strong spring, or packed out with washers and then you might find it a bit tricky to push and screw back in.
There will only be a tiny bit of oil, and I mean tiny.
Thanks,
Not to dwell too much on this, but I was wondering. I bought a new pressure relief valve as well. Is it necessary, or even helpful to install the new valve, or is it just as effective to replace just the spring.
The Moss Tech. told me to "Lap-it-in" with some valve grinding compound. I'm really concerned about pushing grinding compound into the engine.
However if I just replace the valve without seating it will it seal OK?
Finally what's been your experience with the use of washers to increase the spring pressure? Is it helpful in terms of increasing oil pressure?
I'm getting about 10-15 at warm idle and 30-40 at speed warm.
Not to dwell too much on this, but I was wondering. I bought a new pressure relief valve as well. Is it necessary, or even helpful to install the new valve, or is it just as effective to replace just the spring.
The Moss Tech. told me to "Lap-it-in" with some valve grinding compound. I'm really concerned about pushing grinding compound into the engine.
However if I just replace the valve without seating it will it seal OK?
Finally what's been your experience with the use of washers to increase the spring pressure? Is it helpful in terms of increasing oil pressure?
I'm getting about 10-15 at warm idle and 30-40 at speed warm.
When I did it I used about 12 washers which put me from 40 to about 100, (This was when the turbo wasnt one) and understandable I then proceded to remove washers.
I agree grinding past inside the engine is a little silly.
The valve/cup on mine was very solid metal a bit like a bullet with the end flattened im guessing that yours would be something similar, personaly id be surprised of any wear there, but have a look, if any wear put the new one in. As for seating the bullet shape did that for me in this case, just put it on the end of the spring and pushed it back in. NOTE that many washers made it realy, realy difficult to push and turn the nut back in, 5-6 I could manage, and none was easy
I agree grinding past inside the engine is a little silly.
The valve/cup on mine was very solid metal a bit like a bullet with the end flattened im guessing that yours would be something similar, personaly id be surprised of any wear there, but have a look, if any wear put the new one in. As for seating the bullet shape did that for me in this case, just put it on the end of the spring and pushed it back in. NOTE that many washers made it realy, realy difficult to push and turn the nut back in, 5-6 I could manage, and none was easy
Thanks for info. I installed a new valve and spring. The valve on the 1500 is shaped like a regular exh./intake valve with a stem around which is the spring. In addition to the new spring I installed 3 washers(stainless). The pressure is around 80 psi at 3000 rpm-cold and around 40 psi hot at 3000 rpm. At 800 rpm idle-hot the pressure is about 10-15 psi.
I hope this is OK?
I hope this is OK?
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