MK1 ZS or MK2???

MK1 ZS or MK2???

Author
Discussion

Roverload

Original Poster:

850 posts

142 months

Thursday 27th December 2012
quotequote all
I know the body kit looks amazing on a mk2 ZS 180 but the quality look absolutely horrific! Has anybody owned both? Which was the best one? I have effectively pawned my beloved trophy yellow mk1 180 and have the option to buy it back in may / june time but i'm debating leaving it and getting a mk2 180 with all the trimmings instead. Any opinions???

http://sphotos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/6710...

or

http://sphotos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/5573...

MGgeordie

939 posts

190 months

Thursday 27th December 2012
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I'm currently after a yellow ZS 180 saloon so if you don't buy it back can you pass the details onto Me incase I havent found one by then.

Oh & by the way, Mk 1 looks better than Mk 2 to Me!

Wildcataa5b

34 posts

141 months

Thursday 28th March 2013
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Mk2 every time (just an excuse to show off my new purchase) smile


Ex X Power

89 posts

144 months

Friday 29th March 2013
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Is it a rally car?? just it appears to have mudflaps, only joking each to there own.

Mk2 everytime imo if its a 180, they Look better inside and out have a nice climate control system and in my opinion the quality is not really any worse than a Mk1

(I have driven plenty of both and currwntly own a Mk2)

Wildcataa5b

34 posts

141 months

Saturday 30th March 2013
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Oi ! It's my mid life crisis and if I want mudflaps......... and you haven't even seen my go faster checkered graphic on the boot yet smile Next on the list is a set of Pioneer rear parcel shelf speakers like the ones I had in the 80's with the vertical grills I am pretty sure they were pioneers.
Mark (reliving his youth) rolleyes

Ex X Power

89 posts

144 months

Saturday 30th March 2013
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Not too mention the static strip off the back bumper and wind defelectors around the windows, lol

A nice looking example

GTO Scott

3,816 posts

230 months

Saturday 30th March 2013
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Got to be a Mk.2:



But it doesn't have to have the big rear wing - big arches and subtle lip spoiler work well.

Mr2Mike

20,143 posts

261 months

Monday 1st April 2013
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Mk2, unless you like to play "doorhandle bingo" (which one will come off in my hand today?).

baldy1926

2,143 posts

206 months

Monday 1st April 2013
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Mr2Mike said:
Mk2, unless you like to play "doorhandle bingo" (which one will come off in my hand today?).
rofl

Ex X Power

89 posts

144 months

Monday 1st April 2013
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Mr2Mike said:
Mk2, unless you like to play "doorhandle bingo" (which one will come off in my hand today?).
Its worse on the mk2 imo

Mr2Mike

20,143 posts

261 months

Monday 1st April 2013
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Ex X Power said:
Its worse on the mk2 imo
There was a poll on the MG forums ages ago and it did seem the Mk2 was significantly less affected. My dad's had two Mk2's and neither have had a single wobbly handle. I had to replace all of them on my Mk1 ZS180 before I sold it. The stupid thing is this was never a problem on the old 400.

baldy1926

2,143 posts

206 months

Monday 1st April 2013
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I have 3 wobbley handles on mine whats the best fix

Mr2Mike

20,143 posts

261 months

Wednesday 3rd April 2013
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baldy1926 said:
I have 3 wobbley handles on mine whats the best fix
The "best" fix is new handles, but if they are colour coded they will need spraying. Some people have fitted the chrome effect handles from the 45 models to avoid colour coding them, though I think they look a bit gash.

They can be repaired, sort of. If you take them apart you'll find a threaded brass bush with a knurled outer that is supposed to be embedded within a plastic pillar. The plastic simply cracks over time and the brass bush comes loose. Repairing this usually involves lots of metal loaded epoxy and crossed fingers. When I first repaired mine, I put a rivnut though a small bit of alloy plate and bonded the plate the the handle back plate with epoxy, which lasted pretty well.

The screw at the hinged end of the handle is easy to deal with; you can dismantle the handle by removing a white plastic pin on the rear part of the handle assembly and removing the actual handle itself. You can then drill a hole all the way through the handle back plate at the same point the original fitting was located, put a screw through the back plate from the front and then a nut on the back. You now have a very strong stud fitting to secure it to the door, and when you replace the actual handle the head of the screw is covered up.