Upgrading the rear end?
Discussion
Hi guys,
Now i have got my front end how i want it to behave I now want to sort out the rear. The MG in question is a GT V8 Sebring conversion. It currently has a standard v8 back axle with telescopic shocks.
It is terrible off the line if you push it hard. The rear wheels struggle to find grib and studder all over the place. It crashes a lot to. I think the springs and shocks are quite tired
The car is an ex-rally car, though I am adapting it to more of a fast road spec. It will be used on the odd track day and i hope to hill climb it.
I was going to go down the parabolic route with anti tramp bars and a panhard kit.
I have worked out for not a lot more i could have a Jag IRS subframe modified and fitted.
Each has their pros and cons. The Jag set up comes with an LSD and in board discs but will make the rear end substantially heavier.
Anyone got experience of either set up?
Now i have got my front end how i want it to behave I now want to sort out the rear. The MG in question is a GT V8 Sebring conversion. It currently has a standard v8 back axle with telescopic shocks.
It is terrible off the line if you push it hard. The rear wheels struggle to find grib and studder all over the place. It crashes a lot to. I think the springs and shocks are quite tired
The car is an ex-rally car, though I am adapting it to more of a fast road spec. It will be used on the odd track day and i hope to hill climb it.
I was going to go down the parabolic route with anti tramp bars and a panhard kit.
I have worked out for not a lot more i could have a Jag IRS subframe modified and fitted.
Each has their pros and cons. The Jag set up comes with an LSD and in board discs but will make the rear end substantially heavier.
Anyone got experience of either set up?
don't know much about this other than when I had a very modest V8 conversion B roadster just adding the anti-tramp bars (only) tamed it but didn't cure it
in mean time have you checked your u-bolts and suspension pads are snug
as regards rear suspension, I can't remember now if it was LA or tele dampers but it was certainly standard cart horse springs
of course having the front done and the rear not in best condition will show up the rear no matter what system you have so any good condition replacements should give some improvements
usual things help of course good condition dampers, springs and buses, correct tyres in good condition and at suitable pressure
the only thing I know about inboard brake set up is that with a de-dion it gives a lovey smooth ride for rear seat passengers - Rover P6
in mean time have you checked your u-bolts and suspension pads are snug
as regards rear suspension, I can't remember now if it was LA or tele dampers but it was certainly standard cart horse springs
of course having the front done and the rear not in best condition will show up the rear no matter what system you have so any good condition replacements should give some improvements
usual things help of course good condition dampers, springs and buses, correct tyres in good condition and at suitable pressure
the only thing I know about inboard brake set up is that with a de-dion it gives a lovey smooth ride for rear seat passengers - Rover P6
+1
Jack, you haven't said what is the engine's power output. This will make some difference to your chosen set up. With panhard rod be sure this is adjustable to align axle correctly. If not you can induce rear wheel steer on one side which can get a bit interesting.
As per previous MGB V8 thread, have a good read of Roger Williams' book. There's some very sound and proven options in there which cut out wasting time and money. With anti-tramp weld in a couple of RV8 hangers. It's a low cost install and will beef up mounting points properly.
Not overly keen on parabolics as they're primarily design to overcome pinching points of traditional springs. If traditional upgraded springs are kept greased then there's no pinching/sticking between leaves. By basic design, traditional units also suffer less sideways movement than parabolics when under stress. There's always much food for thought with these type of final specs'.
Also take a look hear for logical rear suspension data
http://www.kewengineering.co.uk/upgrades4mgs/Drive...
Jack, you haven't said what is the engine's power output. This will make some difference to your chosen set up. With panhard rod be sure this is adjustable to align axle correctly. If not you can induce rear wheel steer on one side which can get a bit interesting.
As per previous MGB V8 thread, have a good read of Roger Williams' book. There's some very sound and proven options in there which cut out wasting time and money. With anti-tramp weld in a couple of RV8 hangers. It's a low cost install and will beef up mounting points properly.
Not overly keen on parabolics as they're primarily design to overcome pinching points of traditional springs. If traditional upgraded springs are kept greased then there's no pinching/sticking between leaves. By basic design, traditional units also suffer less sideways movement than parabolics when under stress. There's always much food for thought with these type of final specs'.
Also take a look hear for logical rear suspension data
http://www.kewengineering.co.uk/upgrades4mgs/Drive...
RV8 spring hangers? Something i have never heard of before.
Are these the thing http://www.ukmgparts.com/product.aspx?CID=9a1b882b... ?
Are these the thing http://www.ukmgparts.com/product.aspx?CID=9a1b882b... ?
Gassing Station | MG | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff