The brakes are rubbish (MG Midget)
Discussion
brakes are quite good on Spridgets and they're light cars
how old and much (read little) use have the tyres had, forget deep tread depth, see on this link about tyre age - http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_bible.html
brakes could also go hard with age and lack of use but most likely is the rear brakes need adjusting up,
quite possibly the (oft forgotten) brake fluid is well passed its best and needs changing,
and depending to some extent on pedal feel pehaps the rubber flexi-hoses may need replacing (Goodridge s/s braided, set of 3)
also with the feel and actual braking you could possibly improve by greasing and checking for tightness and leaks the front and rear suspensions components
the car will not brake the same as a modern obviously but should be more than adequate, if I brake too hard I'll lock the front wheels and other Spridget owners report the same
as always all is covered in the Driver's Handbook and running through an actual 36k-mile service or at least using it as a check list will find these things
correct tyre pressure isn't a bad idea anytime, try starting with 2 psi above book to allow for more modern tyres than when the car was new
how old and much (read little) use have the tyres had, forget deep tread depth, see on this link about tyre age - http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_bible.html
brakes could also go hard with age and lack of use but most likely is the rear brakes need adjusting up,
quite possibly the (oft forgotten) brake fluid is well passed its best and needs changing,
and depending to some extent on pedal feel pehaps the rubber flexi-hoses may need replacing (Goodridge s/s braided, set of 3)
also with the feel and actual braking you could possibly improve by greasing and checking for tightness and leaks the front and rear suspensions components
the car will not brake the same as a modern obviously but should be more than adequate, if I brake too hard I'll lock the front wheels and other Spridget owners report the same
as always all is covered in the Driver's Handbook and running through an actual 36k-mile service or at least using it as a check list will find these things
correct tyre pressure isn't a bad idea anytime, try starting with 2 psi above book to allow for more modern tyres than when the car was new
Edited by na on Tuesday 28th February 20:05
Mike, if the following helps, try this...change copper or steel brake pipes to copper nickel pipes, replace rubber flexibles to stainless braided, check brake pads and upgrade at front only...rears are pretty stable on midgets. check discs & drums for any glazing...if present wipe back well with an acid which will clear glaze...por-15 metal ready is good for this but must be washed off afterwards. assuming all is well with caliper pistons + seals and rear drum mechanism. lastly, use DOT5.1 brake/clutch fluid...it gives very good hydraulic pressure/feel even without a servo with added advantage of higher boiling point; good luck.
I'll go with tyres, rears brakes need adjusting up and new brake fluid and or flexi-hoses
it'll be very interesting if it's more than that or more than what the others have put
ETA: a very provocative title you’ve put to the thread too Mike, will you report back if you’re wrong
it'll be very interesting if it's more than that or more than what the others have put
ETA: a very provocative title you’ve put to the thread too Mike, will you report back if you’re wrong
Edited by na on Tuesday 28th February 20:13
Mike,
as all will tell I'm a geat believe in service replacement of parts where required and a big believer in brakes before all but unless the discs and or pads are in poor condition why change them
unless you know when the brake fluid was changed within the last few years that would be near the top of my list
just checking and if required adjusting the rears can make a surprising difference to pedal feel
changing tyres, if required because of age and/or lack of use, will make a difference to the braking, roadholding, ride, steering, comfort and noise
I think a few more weeks or months and you'll see why I keep going on about that 36k-mile service and driving the car regularly
fair play to you for using the Midget this time of year at the weekends but if you could use it even more often you'll speed up the process of getting the car to be a lovely drive - and very reliable (well best part there within 12-24 months)
I've got loads of notes for new owners but most don't appreciate them and would sooner find out for themselves rather than learn from my expensive experiences
as all will tell I'm a geat believe in service replacement of parts where required and a big believer in brakes before all but unless the discs and or pads are in poor condition why change them
unless you know when the brake fluid was changed within the last few years that would be near the top of my list
just checking and if required adjusting the rears can make a surprising difference to pedal feel
changing tyres, if required because of age and/or lack of use, will make a difference to the braking, roadholding, ride, steering, comfort and noise
I think a few more weeks or months and you'll see why I keep going on about that 36k-mile service and driving the car regularly
fair play to you for using the Midget this time of year at the weekends but if you could use it even more often you'll speed up the process of getting the car to be a lovely drive - and very reliable (well best part there within 12-24 months)
I've got loads of notes for new owners but most don't appreciate them and would sooner find out for themselves rather than learn from my expensive experiences
Edited by na on Tuesday 28th February 22:51
na said:
I've got loads of notes for new owners but most don't appreciate them and would sooner find out for themselves rather than learn from my expensive experiences
And he's had plenty so some good experience tales to be told! I'll be PM'ing you again soon Nige, haven't forgot. On the road to Booze On the Ouse right now!
Changing to braided hoses made a massive difference on my B and my mum's midget. The old rubber ones were old enough that they just ballooned when you braked.
Got a mate with a stage 3 engined midget running on slightly stiffer springs and uprated lever arm suspension. All he's had to do to the brakes is upgrade the hoses and now runs those greenstuff EDC pads on the front as he has boiled the standard pads a few times.
The point is, the brakes should be acceptable to run and if your car isn't, then it's likely to be a maintenance / repair issue rather than one of design.
Got a mate with a stage 3 engined midget running on slightly stiffer springs and uprated lever arm suspension. All he's had to do to the brakes is upgrade the hoses and now runs those greenstuff EDC pads on the front as he has boiled the standard pads a few times.
The point is, the brakes should be acceptable to run and if your car isn't, then it's likely to be a maintenance / repair issue rather than one of design.
alfa - good point about pads but I'm going to disagree with EBC despite it being a local concern to me - if you need to change the pads you could go for Mintex 1144 these with standard discs are more than enough with even an uprated A-series engine for road use, bigger disc conversons or drilled or grooved discs aren't required on a Spridget
I'd also not disagree with you about changing the flexi-hoses but would point outthat if theold ones were that bad then just renewing to standard rubber ones would have been a big improvement - I'm with you to take the oppitunity to go to braided if replacements are required
that's my point about most classic cars that by just actually driving them regularly and carrying out full and proper servicing, maintenance and repairs they don't have to be slow, poor handling and unreliable it's just the previous and present owners that allow the car to deteriate into the stereotype
I'd also not disagree with you about changing the flexi-hoses but would point outthat if theold ones were that bad then just renewing to standard rubber ones would have been a big improvement - I'm with you to take the oppitunity to go to braided if replacements are required
that's my point about most classic cars that by just actually driving them regularly and carrying out full and proper servicing, maintenance and repairs they don't have to be slow, poor handling and unreliable it's just the previous and present owners that allow the car to deteriate into the stereotype
As young Nigel says most benefit will come from using Mintex pads (I don't even use the posh 1144 thingys just the standard Mintex ones my local MG guy sells) and most important of all adjusting the back brakes properly. Take out any slack in the linkages, I even fitted new clevis pins when I did mine.
My Midget is a 110 mph cruiser with its five speed box and I am happy to use the standard pads all day and night
including track day useage.
I wouldnt go for Greenstuff pads on a Midget(Sprite) as I have heard too many competitive drivers who dislike them, saying they can glaze over and lose effect quite quickly.
I haven't tried them myself, just reporting others.
But the basic Midget brakes are very good ( a mate fitted a servo and swears they are even better, just a thought.)
My Midget is a 110 mph cruiser with its five speed box and I am happy to use the standard pads all day and night
including track day useage.I wouldnt go for Greenstuff pads on a Midget(Sprite) as I have heard too many competitive drivers who dislike them, saying they can glaze over and lose effect quite quickly.
I haven't tried them myself, just reporting others.
But the basic Midget brakes are very good ( a mate fitted a servo and swears they are even better, just a thought.)
New discs and pads fitted yesterday , but i feel a bit of a plonker as there wasnt much wrong with the old ones in fact they looked pretty good , but for the price of new ones it doesn't matter , just need to bed them in now , at least i know there good
Just one thing i would like to know , the centre hub nut with the pin through it was very tight , i thought they were tapered bearings is there a touque setting for these nuts
Also i didnt fit the steel (goodrich ) brake hoses as they look a right pig to fit, i will do them when i get more time
Apart from that all went well , still loving it
The Porsche is redundant
Mike
Just one thing i would like to know , the centre hub nut with the pin through it was very tight , i thought they were tapered bearings is there a touque setting for these nuts
Also i didnt fit the steel (goodrich ) brake hoses as they look a right pig to fit, i will do them when i get more time
Apart from that all went well , still loving it
The Porsche is redundant
Mike
Mike Holmes said:
Just one thing i would like to know , the centre hub nut with the pin through it was very tight , i thought they were tapered bearings is there a touque setting for these nuts
I'll leave that to those that know what thery're talking about, IIRC there is a bit of debate, try looking in the MG BBS Archives I know I keep banging on about it but if you've not already done so and the fluid is old then a change of brake fluid is very important and very, very often overlooked and forgotten about, you also need to fully bleed out obviously
Mike Holmes said:
The Porsche is redundant
no comment Gassing Station | MG | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff