Discussion
Well done 
Uhhm, interesting, semi in the bonnet and shiney grille
That’s not the way stow the hood, ok in the summer but not later - you really should get that owners Handbook (and I hope you’ve got a copy of my notes)
Bulb out and fuel gauge will probably be very simply, connections on back if not ask at MG BBS
And before you do anything about the clutch check that out with the BBS – I notice one reservoir is the latter clear type and the other is the original type
I would suggest either change choke cable for new or over sleeving with rubber hose as it passes the battery earth and check that earth strap from engine to body is in good condition, if it’s a dirty braided type I’d recommend swapping it for a covered multi-core lead type for a couple of pounds to make starting that much easier
And it looks like the clips on the copper heater outlet pipe need/needed nipping up,
I’m not sure about the colour of what looks like has come out of the pipe, I’d suggest you remove the radiator filler plug and see what the state of the coolant is
When you replace the rad filler plug don’t over tighten or you’ll squash the sealing ‘O’ ring
Check your expansion pressure cap is 15lb and the seal is in good condition
The K&N filter is the correct colour they’re only red when new or cleaned and recharged (after 50,000 miles)
Give the car a by the book check and top up as required tomorrow and all being well a good run on Sunday – fill with petrol as the tank will probably be less than 6 gallons and that wont go far until the car is fully serviced and in tune
Uhhm, interesting, semi in the bonnet and shiney grille
That’s not the way stow the hood, ok in the summer but not later - you really should get that owners Handbook (and I hope you’ve got a copy of my notes)
Bulb out and fuel gauge will probably be very simply, connections on back if not ask at MG BBS
And before you do anything about the clutch check that out with the BBS – I notice one reservoir is the latter clear type and the other is the original type
I would suggest either change choke cable for new or over sleeving with rubber hose as it passes the battery earth and check that earth strap from engine to body is in good condition, if it’s a dirty braided type I’d recommend swapping it for a covered multi-core lead type for a couple of pounds to make starting that much easier
And it looks like the clips on the copper heater outlet pipe need/needed nipping up,
I’m not sure about the colour of what looks like has come out of the pipe, I’d suggest you remove the radiator filler plug and see what the state of the coolant is
When you replace the rad filler plug don’t over tighten or you’ll squash the sealing ‘O’ ring
Check your expansion pressure cap is 15lb and the seal is in good condition
The K&N filter is the correct colour they’re only red when new or cleaned and recharged (after 50,000 miles)
Give the car a by the book check and top up as required tomorrow and all being well a good run on Sunday – fill with petrol as the tank will probably be less than 6 gallons and that wont go far until the car is fully serviced and in tune
I'm really enjoying this.
Horn doesn't work.
Pin prick leak on Rad bottom hose
Strange switch that does nowt on end of dash
Spare tyre goosed.
Feels great to drive, responsive engine and sound on the road, it can't be nearly 40 years old surely!
More Pics
ETA: Can't get the clutch to slip again so it must have mended itself! I like that in a car.
Horn doesn't work.
Pin prick leak on Rad bottom hose
Strange switch that does nowt on end of dash
Spare tyre goosed.
Feels great to drive, responsive engine and sound on the road, it can't be nearly 40 years old surely!
More Pics
ETA: Can't get the clutch to slip again so it must have mended itself! I like that in a car.
Edited by Druid on Saturday 6th August 15:01
Edited by Druid on Saturday 6th August 16:35
Druid said:
I'm really enjoying this.
Druid said:
Horn doesn't work.
are you sure you're pressing the right bit? - owners Handbook will help with this – horn could be push centre of steering wheel or end of column stalk or be relocated to an additional added switchif it’s none of these then either MG BBS or report back here – at least one had to work to pass the MOT (also see my advice note)
Druid said:
Pin prick leak on Rad bottom hose
amazing and slightly worrying that hose was replaced with the restDruid said:
Strange switch that does nowt on end of dash
if it's the one on the far left it's the panel light switch (again owners Handbook would tell you this)Druid said:
Spare tyre goosed.
dump it - I’ve not carried a spare for 20 years just the foot pump, separate reliable tyre pressure gauge and a never used can of Tyre-WeldDruid said:
Feels great to drive, responsive engine and sound on the road, it can't be nearly 40 years old surely!
to make it even better and keep it going well get that Handbook and do a full 36,000 mile service ASAPna said:
amazing and slightly worrying that hose was replaced with the rest
Looks original to me whereas some others are no doubt newer.na said:
if it's the one on the far left it's the panel light switch (again owners Handbook would tell you this)
No, far right of dash, definately aftermarket bodge for something maybe horn. Just need to trace the cables.I promise I'll get a handbook!
Druid said:
na said:
amazing and slightly worrying that hose was not replaced with the rest
Looks original to me whereas some others are no doubt newer.The fact that it was not replaced I don’t like the sound of, I might be wrong to be worried but I’d certainly be looking at getting the books and doing that 36,000 mile service ASAP
Druid said:
na said:
if it's the one on the far left it's the panel light switch (again owners Handbook would tell you this)
No, far right of dash, definately aftermarket bodge for something maybe horn. Just need to trace the cables.Bullet connectors behind the rad grille get furred up, wires exposed or weakened, spade connectors the same – but we can go into all that if necessary
One wire off your present horn switch should go to the car body with the other in some way coming from the original horn wire
Druid said:
I promise I'll get a handbook!
you wont regret it I promise and a Factory Parts Cataloguedid you check the coolant in rad ?
btw clutch slip might have been you wheel spinning – Sprdgets will you know
Edited by na on Saturday 6th August 21:21
Having now looked at your photos a few notes
BTW if I’m interfering too much just say
Clutch reservoir is new, so only possibly, maybe, maybe not, could it have air in system, it can be awkward to bleed
By the look of the alternator and dissy the car might have be standing unused or very little use for quite a while so take it reasonable easy to start with
I’ve no idea why anyone would fit an oil cooler unless for track use as the engine runs quite cool with the original X-flow radiator (until you’re stationary anyway) – where the temperature gauge needle is in your photo isn’t that far off where they can be whilst travel when above say 40 mph
Radiator filler plug might be plastic as it doesn’t have the very large screwdriver slot that the brass ones do – be very careful not to lose the threads on the plastic plugs
It might mean the radiator is a replacement one, or new or original reconditioned
Heater tap is a replacement they can sometimes weep which you can just put up with IF it happens, Ashley Hinton does the only decent ones
Carb dashpots look like they may have shiny over-covers on them
Far left of dash is that a plate or a cover, a map reading light could have been added there
No interior light, should be about middle hanging under dash where those wires are slightly hanging
Steering wheel is a replacement smaller size which personally I think spoils the lovely feeling of the steering but many, many others disagree – originals are a bit big for the cockpit at over 15” but I also like the thin rim on them
I can’t see the new horn? switch
Either changed seat covers or possibly seats from another car (can’t see enough)
Did you get the fuel gauge and light working?
BTW if I’m interfering too much just say
Clutch reservoir is new, so only possibly, maybe, maybe not, could it have air in system, it can be awkward to bleed
By the look of the alternator and dissy the car might have be standing unused or very little use for quite a while so take it reasonable easy to start with
I’ve no idea why anyone would fit an oil cooler unless for track use as the engine runs quite cool with the original X-flow radiator (until you’re stationary anyway) – where the temperature gauge needle is in your photo isn’t that far off where they can be whilst travel when above say 40 mph
Radiator filler plug might be plastic as it doesn’t have the very large screwdriver slot that the brass ones do – be very careful not to lose the threads on the plastic plugs
It might mean the radiator is a replacement one, or new or original reconditioned
Heater tap is a replacement they can sometimes weep which you can just put up with IF it happens, Ashley Hinton does the only decent ones
Carb dashpots look like they may have shiny over-covers on them
Far left of dash is that a plate or a cover, a map reading light could have been added there
No interior light, should be about middle hanging under dash where those wires are slightly hanging
Steering wheel is a replacement smaller size which personally I think spoils the lovely feeling of the steering but many, many others disagree – originals are a bit big for the cockpit at over 15” but I also like the thin rim on them
I can’t see the new horn? switch
Either changed seat covers or possibly seats from another car (can’t see enough)
Did you get the fuel gauge and light working?
na said:
BTW if I’m interfering too much just say
Not at all, I need all the help I can get!na said:
Clutch reservoir is new, so only possibly, maybe, maybe not, could it have air in system, it can be awkward to bleed
Will have a look at it when my manual arrives.na said:
By the look of the alternator and dissy the car might have be standing unused or very little use for quite a while so take it reasonable easy to start with
50 miles since its MOT in February. All other history might end up lost as it's possibly still with the deceased previous owners wife. Must send a letter.na said:
I’ve no idea why anyone would fit an oil cooler unless for track use as the engine runs quite cool with the original X-flow radiator (until you’re stationary anyway) – where the temperature gauge needle is in your photo isn’t that far off where they can be whilst travel when above say 40 mph
Its a professional fit. Best I track it then. na said:
Radiator filler plug might be plastic as it doesn’t have the very large screwdriver slot that the brass ones do – be very careful not to lose the threads on the plastic plugs
Yes it's plastic, removed it and checked the coolant level. All ok.na said:
Far left of dash is that a plate or a cover, a map reading light could have been added there
Its a small dealer plate of some sort. Performance Classics?The horn just needed reconnecting, to the strange switch as suspected.
Filled the tank and still no movement on the gauge so connection or gauge or sender?
Druid said:
The horn just needed reconnecting, to the strange switch as suspected.
great see my note about using the hornDruid said:
Filled the tank and still no movement on the gauge so connection or gauge or sender?
will (very slowly) off line type out suggestions or you can ask or search the archives in the MG BBS - http://www2.mgcars.org.uk/cgi-bin/gen5?runprog=mgb...owners Handbook doesn't cover repairs but extensive maintenance and servicing for repairs you want - (Ref: 0002) - http://www.mgocshop.co.uk/catalog/Workshop_Manuals...
personally I don't like the Haynes much
To save my slow writing and the fact my wife has loaded Skype on the computer and it also put Google Tool Bar on and now the computer is playing up
Try this first, if it doesn’t do it I’ve got loads more but chances are it's a connection at fault
Time for the Spridget contortions to deal with behind the dash issues, luckily it’s passenger side for this
Fuel gauge and it’s light not working - probably the earth connection – an earth wire connects to the case of the gauge on the threaded rod that comes centrally off the back of the gauge body, this also locates the bracket that holds the gauge to the dash – this probably just needs tightening up
The bracket needs to spread slightly to locate either side of the gauge on to the dash
Have a look and report back
Wiring diagram in owners Handbook
Try this first, if it doesn’t do it I’ve got loads more but chances are it's a connection at fault
Time for the Spridget contortions to deal with behind the dash issues, luckily it’s passenger side for this
Fuel gauge and it’s light not working - probably the earth connection – an earth wire connects to the case of the gauge on the threaded rod that comes centrally off the back of the gauge body, this also locates the bracket that holds the gauge to the dash – this probably just needs tightening up
The bracket needs to spread slightly to locate either side of the gauge on to the dash
Have a look and report back
Wiring diagram in owners Handbook
All connections on the car must be clean, secure and protected or problems will arise
The fuel gauge has two wires connected on to it – one green/black the other light green/green – check these are connected tightly
The fuel gauge also has a voltage stabilizer that sits behind the dash elsewhere, the connections to this could be poor or broken or the voltage stabiliser not working
The light green/green wire from the fuel gauge goes to the ‘bi-metallic instrument voltage stabilizer’ via the wire loom
From the voltage stabilizer goes a green wire to a connector then on to the fuse box
The green/black wire arrives at the fuel gauge from the fuel sender via a connector under the car close to the tank this could well be the culprit or the wires to it
The connectors and bullets can get furred up and need cleaning up – don’t replace unless you have to as new bullets and connectors are rubbish I’ve found
The wires close to bullet connectors tend to get the insulation cracked off and/or frayed wires which means renewing connectors or insulation with something
Also hood should be pretty much water tight if you get water under the footwell mats let me know
Fuses should be glass with paper inside showing 17 amp continuous 35 amp peak the modern 35 amp fuses look very similar and are often fitted – two spare fuses should sit in the fusebox
Just so much to tell and (re)learn about running a classic but a thorough read of the owners Handbook will set you up well
The fuel gauge has two wires connected on to it – one green/black the other light green/green – check these are connected tightly
The fuel gauge also has a voltage stabilizer that sits behind the dash elsewhere, the connections to this could be poor or broken or the voltage stabiliser not working
The light green/green wire from the fuel gauge goes to the ‘bi-metallic instrument voltage stabilizer’ via the wire loom
From the voltage stabilizer goes a green wire to a connector then on to the fuse box
The green/black wire arrives at the fuel gauge from the fuel sender via a connector under the car close to the tank this could well be the culprit or the wires to it
The connectors and bullets can get furred up and need cleaning up – don’t replace unless you have to as new bullets and connectors are rubbish I’ve found
The wires close to bullet connectors tend to get the insulation cracked off and/or frayed wires which means renewing connectors or insulation with something
Also hood should be pretty much water tight if you get water under the footwell mats let me know
Fuses should be glass with paper inside showing 17 amp continuous 35 amp peak the modern 35 amp fuses look very similar and are often fitted – two spare fuses should sit in the fusebox
Just so much to tell and (re)learn about running a classic but a thorough read of the owners Handbook will set you up well
Edited by na on Sunday 7th August 14:08
if above don't work and you fancy a go at repairing existing gauge then go on to MG BBS and go into the Archives some have tried and been successful
for now have these links too:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Semiconductor-Voltage-St...
http://classicstabilizers.webs.com/information.htm
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SOLID-STATE-VOLTAGE-STAB...
I'll leave you to your slow puncture (or leaky valve? or sidewall? even perhaps, may be, may be not)
you've seen my posts on your previous threads if you want more info or help from me just PM me if not I'll leave you alone now
classic car ownership doesn't have to be this way - but it often starts out this way when you first get the car - but you can make the car very reliable and a joy to use (well almost all the time)
on another note, we've often toured N.Yorks/Cumbria area with the Sporting Bears and have friends that have lived in N. Yorks for a good few years now - one couple used to live in Lincs
I also know Tony and my mate at HHC both still Sporting Bears I think
It's a great area for the Midget, or TVR, but the Midget is ideal for some of those roads
for now have these links too:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Semiconductor-Voltage-St...
http://classicstabilizers.webs.com/information.htm
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SOLID-STATE-VOLTAGE-STAB...
I'll leave you to your slow puncture (or leaky valve? or sidewall? even perhaps, may be, may be not)
you've seen my posts on your previous threads if you want more info or help from me just PM me if not I'll leave you alone now
classic car ownership doesn't have to be this way - but it often starts out this way when you first get the car - but you can make the car very reliable and a joy to use (well almost all the time)
on another note, we've often toured N.Yorks/Cumbria area with the Sporting Bears and have friends that have lived in N. Yorks for a good few years now - one couple used to live in Lincs
I also know Tony and my mate at HHC both still Sporting Bears I think
It's a great area for the Midget, or TVR, but the Midget is ideal for some of those roads
Edited by na on Monday 8th August 17:48
Druid said:
The puncture is just the valve body so will sort tomorrow.
wow, coincidence first time ever (I've been driving since 1977) I had to get (4) tyre valves changed because they were cracked, they were only two years old - remember what I put about rubber (hoses) Druid said:
Should you find yourself in the far north (Yorkshire) anytime ley me know I would like an expert opinion because I really think I've got a good one!
I am in no way an expert in anything - I'm the smuck you sell to and buy from as far as cars go, now my mate's had nearly 400 cars! he knows a thing or two and despairs at all my car purchasesour friends now live around Leyburn and have owned a few TVR (now Porsches, tut, tut) between them – we are the very poor friends, but such is SB membership, one couple hardly drink the other like us will frequent pubs that happen to sell good real ale
all 6 of us bedded at a pub in Lincolnshire one year, many years ago and from there I signed up our first club member with a Tuscan but the club was always into TVRs we had the chap that owned the only factory built 5 litre V8S
next time I’m up that way with my Midget I’ll let you know so that you can see a scruffy car that goes quite well – that’s done it it’ll breakdown now
Just enjoyed reading your thread. Congrats on Midget purchase, looks good 
.
Mine's M reg and owned since 1979.
Interesting combination, TVR + Midget, similar here, but S2 belongs to son - at least I'm on insurance
.
A suggestion about the oil cooler, may indicate the car has stage B race tuned engine similar to a friend of mine's some (ie too many) years ago. If I remember correctly this involved racing cam, high pressure fuel pump (friend's car had twin-choke webber carb unlike your (standard ??) SU's), strengthened valve springs, skimmed + gas-flowed head, lcb manifold, single box exhaust (like yours) and oil cooler. Revved to 8200!! Quite quick in its day, but went through several gearboxes due to around 40mph in 1st 
.
Good luck with all improvements - I need to follow suggestions on why fuel gauge not working, mine's been out of action since 1980's, just log mileage at each refill
.Mine's M reg and owned since 1979.
Interesting combination, TVR + Midget, similar here, but S2 belongs to son - at least I'm on insurance
.A suggestion about the oil cooler, may indicate the car has stage B race tuned engine similar to a friend of mine's some (ie too many
) years ago. If I remember correctly this involved racing cam, high pressure fuel pump (friend's car had twin-choke webber carb unlike your (standard ??) SU's), strengthened valve springs, skimmed + gas-flowed head, lcb manifold, single box exhaust (like yours) and oil cooler. Revved to 8200!! Quite quick in its day, but went through several gearboxes due to around 40mph in 1st .Good luck with all improvements - I need to follow suggestions on why fuel gauge not working, mine's been out of action since 1980's, just log mileage at each refill
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