MGB young driver,
Discussion
Would you recommend this car to a 20ish y/o driver? I would love one of these cars for an early car, I've took into consideration the potential downsides and I still am certain that owning one of these cars would be a brilliant experience for me, even if it's just for a year or two. It would probably be my only car so reliability may be a problem, have any of you had serious problems? I'm perfectly willing to attempt to work on the car myself so I can begin to learn more about the car and I think it would be part of the fun (When it goes right 
)
So can you give me any general advice about my aspirations and also anythings to take into consideration?
I'm a bit odd in the fact I'd rather have a car like this than the typical for a young driver.
) So can you give me any general advice about my aspirations and also anythings to take into consideration?
I'm a bit odd in the fact I'd rather have a car like this than the typical for a young driver.
quite a few youngsters with classics on PH
unless you're very tall you'll get better value out of a Spridget (MG Midget/AH Sprite)
or MGB GT rubber bumper models tend to be lower priced
check the insurance costs for you with a classic insurer
to understand more fully what you'll be getting yourself into buy an owners Handbook before even looking at any cars - http://www.mgocshop.co.uk/catalog/Online_Catalogue...
if you want more advice I can post more but most youngsters ignore it and go off to make their own mistakes at their own costs on - http://younggunsclassics.forumcircle.com/index.php
unless you're very tall you'll get better value out of a Spridget (MG Midget/AH Sprite)
or MGB GT rubber bumper models tend to be lower priced
check the insurance costs for you with a classic insurer
to understand more fully what you'll be getting yourself into buy an owners Handbook before even looking at any cars - http://www.mgocshop.co.uk/catalog/Online_Catalogue...
if you want more advice I can post more but most youngsters ignore it and go off to make their own mistakes at their own costs on - http://younggunsclassics.forumcircle.com/index.php
Couple of questions for you - what sort of budget do you have and what sort of driving are you doing?
The B is far more comfortable and usable if you're travelling any distance or if there's any motorway use - they pretty much all have overdrive units, which gives you effectively an extra gear on top of 3rd and 4th, so it cruises at 70mph at about 3300 rpm vs the midget's 4000 rpm.
Parts are cheap. About £13 for a pair of discs, shoes at the back, basic engine. The expensive bit is bodywork - the parts are all available and reasonably cheap, but the cost of labour to weld it and paint to make it look nice costs a lot.
In other words, get the car with the best bodywork you can find. The rest is easy to work on and not expensive.
As nige says, rubber bumpers gives you a lot more car for your money. OK, they're not as pretty, but the view from behind the wheel is virtually the same. The handling is not as good, but it's an easy and very very worthwhile and cheap thing to sort out.
Do it! Just don't make the mistake I did when I bought my first B aged 25. Kept it for way too long and threw far too much money at it. My current B is a much better prospect.
Happy to help if you have any further q's.
The B is far more comfortable and usable if you're travelling any distance or if there's any motorway use - they pretty much all have overdrive units, which gives you effectively an extra gear on top of 3rd and 4th, so it cruises at 70mph at about 3300 rpm vs the midget's 4000 rpm.
Parts are cheap. About £13 for a pair of discs, shoes at the back, basic engine. The expensive bit is bodywork - the parts are all available and reasonably cheap, but the cost of labour to weld it and paint to make it look nice costs a lot.
In other words, get the car with the best bodywork you can find. The rest is easy to work on and not expensive.
As nige says, rubber bumpers gives you a lot more car for your money. OK, they're not as pretty, but the view from behind the wheel is virtually the same. The handling is not as good, but it's an easy and very very worthwhile and cheap thing to sort out.
Do it! Just don't make the mistake I did when I bought my first B aged 25. Kept it for way too long and threw far too much money at it. My current B is a much better prospect.
Happy to help if you have any further q's.
Well, I'm going to start saving pretty much ASAP, I've just gotten a job and I think the prospect is more real than ever for me. (I'm currently 15, by the way). Thanks for the advice, I'll look through the links to get some more knowledge on it, but once I've set my mind to this it will be very hard to change it.
Copy and keep my next post in electonic form and on paper
Certainly do some reseach on the web but bear in mind not all of it will be correct you must cross reference any information you get
for £7 or £8 a paper copy of a owners Handbook will teach you a lot if you thoroughly read it, it doesn't matter for now which model yje Handbbk refers to as the general information will relate to most classics
driving, servicing and maintaining a classic is very different and more involved than a modern car so you need to find out about these things to see if a classic is for you
if you study hard at school with your maths, English and metal or woodwork type classes (if they still do them) then it will prepare you much better for classic car ownership
Certainly do some reseach on the web but bear in mind not all of it will be correct you must cross reference any information you get
for £7 or £8 a paper copy of a owners Handbook will teach you a lot if you thoroughly read it, it doesn't matter for now which model yje Handbbk refers to as the general information will relate to most classics
driving, servicing and maintaining a classic is very different and more involved than a modern car so you need to find out about these things to see if a classic is for you
if you study hard at school with your maths, English and metal or woodwork type classes (if they still do them) then it will prepare you much better for classic car ownership
My advice to new or potential B owners -
(keep a complete copy of this information to read and refer to now and later) -
Buy an owners Handbook before even looking for the car and read it thoroughly as it tells you so much you need to know to own, drive, service and maintain your car and it’s very useful to have as a paper copy even if you get electronic copies later - http://www.mgocshop.co.uk/catalog/Online_Catalogue...
Look at and test drive as many good examples as you can including some well out of your buying budget to see how good the cars should be and that you may need to increase your budget
It usually works out less expensive to buy a good but higher priced example than a poor lower priced example
If you buy one then;
always have the battery(ies) and connections in good condition as this will obviously help with starting the car and running the electrical items but also it will help with problem solving many items whereas a battery and/or connections in poor condition will create problems or not help with other problems
Also have all battery leads and connections, other earth leads and all connections - clean, secure and protected - as this will help with starting of the engine and all electric circuits, same applies to all electrical wiring and connections too
As soon as possible after purchase do a full and proper 36,000 miles service only miss out items that you have 100% proof have already been done very recently, including;
g/box and back axle oils
brake and clutch fluids
coolant
dissy cap, rotor arm and leads (buy good quality ones) - http://www.distributordoctor.com/rotor_arms.html
fan belt
For a coolant change first clean with something like Bars Flush Cooling System Cleaner then drain the whole system - engine block, rad and heater matrix, if you can get any of these out to give them a good shake at the same time as flushing and back flushing then all the better - the sequence is use cleaner as per its instructions then flush, back flush and flush and continue this until water runs clear, refill with the correct coolant mixture but bear in mind in tap water isn’t always the best water to use
Follow the refill instructions from the owners Handbook to avoid get air locks or ‘hotspots’ that could cause overheating of the engine
As new rubber cooling hoses tend to be poor quality now this is also a good chance to change them to silicone and rounded-edge clips - http://www.classicsiliconehoses.com/
Be aware that brand new parts can sometimes be faulty, especially electrical bits (see just above) so don’t discount them when problem solving just because they are new, buy good quality parts
Check the age of your tyres if they are 6 years old or more replace ASAP regardless of tread depth, this will improve the braking, steering, ride, handling and possibly noise and safety of the car greatly
Use the car regularly - to get used to it, sort out any wrinkles and prevent the problems that occur with lack of use, and to enjoy it
Every few weeks check your horn, wipers and all switches work and heater valve turns on and off (all no problem if you use the car regularly)
Follow regular checks, servicing and maintenance as per owners Handbook
Drive in all weathers the car was designed to, if working correctly the heater is more than adequate
Do not do any cosmetic or improvement work for at least 12 months of regular use, unless you need to replace parts or components, as you may need to use the money elsewhere on the car
Also very useful, you can get suppliers catalogues for free to get you started to see where things go but in my personal opinion they’re not as good as a paper copy like - http://www.mgocshop.co.uk/catalog/Online_Catalogue...
Cheers, enjoy your car
(keep a complete copy of this information to read and refer to now and later) -
Buy an owners Handbook before even looking for the car and read it thoroughly as it tells you so much you need to know to own, drive, service and maintain your car and it’s very useful to have as a paper copy even if you get electronic copies later - http://www.mgocshop.co.uk/catalog/Online_Catalogue...
Look at and test drive as many good examples as you can including some well out of your buying budget to see how good the cars should be and that you may need to increase your budget
It usually works out less expensive to buy a good but higher priced example than a poor lower priced example
If you buy one then;
always have the battery(ies) and connections in good condition as this will obviously help with starting the car and running the electrical items but also it will help with problem solving many items whereas a battery and/or connections in poor condition will create problems or not help with other problems
Also have all battery leads and connections, other earth leads and all connections - clean, secure and protected - as this will help with starting of the engine and all electric circuits, same applies to all electrical wiring and connections too
As soon as possible after purchase do a full and proper 36,000 miles service only miss out items that you have 100% proof have already been done very recently, including;
g/box and back axle oils
brake and clutch fluids
coolant
dissy cap, rotor arm and leads (buy good quality ones) - http://www.distributordoctor.com/rotor_arms.html
fan belt
For a coolant change first clean with something like Bars Flush Cooling System Cleaner then drain the whole system - engine block, rad and heater matrix, if you can get any of these out to give them a good shake at the same time as flushing and back flushing then all the better - the sequence is use cleaner as per its instructions then flush, back flush and flush and continue this until water runs clear, refill with the correct coolant mixture but bear in mind in tap water isn’t always the best water to use
Follow the refill instructions from the owners Handbook to avoid get air locks or ‘hotspots’ that could cause overheating of the engine
As new rubber cooling hoses tend to be poor quality now this is also a good chance to change them to silicone and rounded-edge clips - http://www.classicsiliconehoses.com/
Be aware that brand new parts can sometimes be faulty, especially electrical bits (see just above) so don’t discount them when problem solving just because they are new, buy good quality parts
Check the age of your tyres if they are 6 years old or more replace ASAP regardless of tread depth, this will improve the braking, steering, ride, handling and possibly noise and safety of the car greatly
Use the car regularly - to get used to it, sort out any wrinkles and prevent the problems that occur with lack of use, and to enjoy it
Every few weeks check your horn, wipers and all switches work and heater valve turns on and off (all no problem if you use the car regularly)
Follow regular checks, servicing and maintenance as per owners Handbook
Drive in all weathers the car was designed to, if working correctly the heater is more than adequate
Do not do any cosmetic or improvement work for at least 12 months of regular use, unless you need to replace parts or components, as you may need to use the money elsewhere on the car
Also very useful, you can get suppliers catalogues for free to get you started to see where things go but in my personal opinion they’re not as good as a paper copy like - http://www.mgocshop.co.uk/catalog/Online_Catalogue...
Cheers, enjoy your car
Rubber bumper examples appear to be the cheapest, if you don't like the looks then chrome bumper conversion kits are available for around £450.
I am also thinking of getting one soon, maybe buying a rubber bumper & converting it to chrome (waits to be shot by purists) as I prefer the greater ride height. Being 38 years old means insurance isn't a problem, I can simply add it to my existing classic policy.
Like any old car, they are reliable as long as you get a good one and you spend time maintaining it, not just fixing it when it breaks! Buy the best one you can afford, there are thousands of them out there and make sure bodily its 100%.
PS - Does anyone know if I will fit a B as I'm 6'6"! I manage ok in my Vitesse & MX5....
I am also thinking of getting one soon, maybe buying a rubber bumper & converting it to chrome (waits to be shot by purists) as I prefer the greater ride height. Being 38 years old means insurance isn't a problem, I can simply add it to my existing classic policy.
Like any old car, they are reliable as long as you get a good one and you spend time maintaining it, not just fixing it when it breaks! Buy the best one you can afford, there are thousands of them out there and make sure bodily its 100%.
PS - Does anyone know if I will fit a B as I'm 6'6"! I manage ok in my Vitesse & MX5....
TriumphVitesse said:
Rubber bumper examples appear to be the cheapest, if you don't like the looks then chrome bumper conversion kits are available for around £450.
bit of work invovled too especially with the Midget, many remove r/b without converting to chrome, then of course there's the ride height increase because of losing the heavy metalTriumphVitesse said:
Like any old car, they are reliable as long as you get a good one and you spend time maintaining it, not just fixing it when it breaks! Buy the best one you can afford, there are thousands of them out there and make sure bodily its 100%.
TriumphVitesse said:
PS - Does anyone know if I will fit a B as I'm 6'6"! I manage ok in my Vitesse & MX5....
unles the MK 3 and 4 MX-5s got more legroom that the Mk 1 & 2 them the B will seem to loads of legroomyou need to test drive one - and ones out of your price range, well see my advice above
TriumphVitesse said:
Rubber bumper examples appear to be the cheapest, if you don't like the looks then chrome bumper conversion kits are available for around £450.
I am also thinking of getting one soon, maybe buying a rubber bumper & converting it to chrome (waits to be shot by purists) as I prefer the greater ride height. Being 38 years old means insurance isn't a problem, I can simply add it to my existing classic policy.
Like any old car, they are reliable as long as you get a good one and you spend time maintaining it, not just fixing it when it breaks! Buy the best one you can afford, there are thousands of them out there and make sure bodily its 100%.
PS - Does anyone know if I will fit a B as I'm 6'6"! I manage ok in my Vitesse & MX5....
Can't believe you like the greater ride height! Both standard rubber bumper cars I've driven have been absolute pigs to the point of being dangerous in the wet. The chrome bumper ones are sound, and the 2 lowered rubber bumper cars have been absolutely joyous.I am also thinking of getting one soon, maybe buying a rubber bumper & converting it to chrome (waits to be shot by purists) as I prefer the greater ride height. Being 38 years old means insurance isn't a problem, I can simply add it to my existing classic policy.
Like any old car, they are reliable as long as you get a good one and you spend time maintaining it, not just fixing it when it breaks! Buy the best one you can afford, there are thousands of them out there and make sure bodily its 100%.
PS - Does anyone know if I will fit a B as I'm 6'6"! I manage ok in my Vitesse & MX5....
Anyway, my dad was 6'4" and liked the B (owned one for 20 years). I'm only 5'9" and my forehead gets a bit of buffeting at motorway speeds. I didn't notice this much when I first bought one 12 years ago, but I've been spoilt by the Alfa spider for the last 4 years, which is very protective from the wind.
a couple of quick commments
the r/bs that weren't good to drive may, might, possibly (obviously I don't know just suggesting) have had old, gone hard through lack of use tyres and worn and/or aged suspension bushes and possibly the rest of the suspension worn or tired
at 6' 6", possibly I don't know as I'm very short, the driver would have the seat far back and possibly titled back so far from the windscreen and most of the buffeting, in the back draft though
the r/bs that weren't good to drive may, might, possibly (obviously I don't know just suggesting) have had old, gone hard through lack of use tyres and worn and/or aged suspension bushes and possibly the rest of the suspension worn or tired
at 6' 6", possibly I don't know as I'm very short, the driver would have the seat far back and possibly titled back so far from the windscreen and most of the buffeting, in the back draft though
alfa pint said:
Can't believe you like the greater ride height!
Nor do I really...........probably just the looks as I have still yet to drive one so can't comment on the handling! Anyway, the prices of later chrome bumper ones are pretty low so will probably end up getting one of them. I am hoping to get one sooner rather than later, cash is waiting just ready for the right one to come along. Basically it has to be a GT (I already have 2 convertibles so don't need another), must have a webasto, preferably be tax free although not essential, don't want a white one, not fussed about red as already have 2 red cars so bored of that, must have rostyles or minilites - not wires. Oh and it must be on the road, ready to go and be 99% rust free!MGBGT as one's first car - yes. I did it. Bought in 1980, aged 19 from a retired double barrelled named South African Squadron Leader living on the south coast. 1972/K Reg Blaze, £1150, 4 speed, no overdrive. Recessed grille. Insurance (after much laughing from the brokers) was £273 TPF&T which seemed a lot of money at the time. Rather ironic that I can insure my Caterham for less than than Full comp (5,000 miles) today.
Drove it all over the place for 5 years. Isle of Skye, Trois Vallies (winter), Wales, mainland Scotland (canoeing). Took it to Liverpool University - it used to pull the canoe club trailer as it was the only student car up to the job.
Did all the maintenance myself with trusty Halfods socket set. Had it resprayed in Liverpool. It looked very nice. Uprated the engine. Post university during engineering training I started a rebuild (Sebring look alike with Connelly leather seats etc etc). It ending up languishing in my parent's garage when I started full time employment. The bodywork was a never ending task to try and get finished. It was eventually sold, not finished, to clear my parents garage. So the message is start early because employment and life gets in the way too easily.
During the rebuild I got a white MGB roadster. £900, which was a hoot but had worse sills than the one I was rebuilding. Learnt the lesson about dodgy worn tires on autumn leaves when it went straight on at a corner!
As has been said go for the best bodywork you can find. The mechanicals are much easier for a DIYer for first car and available resources - garages, tools etc. The supply of spare parts is much, much better now than when I owned my B.
I rebuilt the bottom end of the engine with the engine in place - that concrete floor in winter was very cold. I re-shimmed the diff in the rear axle in place. Fitted a Kenlowe fan. Fitted a stage 2/3 head and rocker gear. Tuned and re-needled the carbs. Changed brake disc and pads. Changed rear shoes, shock absorbers. Changed the failed UJ on the white roadster. Fitted a nice stereo plus many many other jobs. On reflection all straightforward stuff.
Got good at removing the starter motor. 1hr 10 minis initially, finally just over 5 mins! During the winter French trip I had to hit it with the Krooklock to get it working after each stop. I got the washers and bushed and rebuilt myself back in UK. In the French Alps the car performed superbly - nicely balanced and sure-footed on Snow chains on the rear axle.
Coming back from university to the South coast the A34 south of Oxford was a blizzard and the carbs were starting to ice up. The A34 was gridlocked and I had to go cross country. On the country lanes some of the drifts caused the spoiler to shovel powder snow onto the bonnet. Good fun if a little exciting at times!
Went with mate to see his fiancée who was at a nursing training college south of Edinburgh. Ended up taking him, his fiancée and 3 of her friends out on the town. She sat on his lap in the passenger seat, 2 nurses on the back seat and one in the boot. The engine still pulled well even if the suspension felt a little low.
If you can sort out reasonable insurance then its a good choice. If I had my time again I would go for an overdrive one. I still hanker over one now.
Drove it all over the place for 5 years. Isle of Skye, Trois Vallies (winter), Wales, mainland Scotland (canoeing). Took it to Liverpool University - it used to pull the canoe club trailer as it was the only student car up to the job.
Did all the maintenance myself with trusty Halfods socket set. Had it resprayed in Liverpool. It looked very nice. Uprated the engine. Post university during engineering training I started a rebuild (Sebring look alike with Connelly leather seats etc etc). It ending up languishing in my parent's garage when I started full time employment. The bodywork was a never ending task to try and get finished. It was eventually sold, not finished, to clear my parents garage. So the message is start early because employment and life gets in the way too easily.
During the rebuild I got a white MGB roadster. £900, which was a hoot but had worse sills than the one I was rebuilding. Learnt the lesson about dodgy worn tires on autumn leaves when it went straight on at a corner!
As has been said go for the best bodywork you can find. The mechanicals are much easier for a DIYer for first car and available resources - garages, tools etc. The supply of spare parts is much, much better now than when I owned my B.
I rebuilt the bottom end of the engine with the engine in place - that concrete floor in winter was very cold. I re-shimmed the diff in the rear axle in place. Fitted a Kenlowe fan. Fitted a stage 2/3 head and rocker gear. Tuned and re-needled the carbs. Changed brake disc and pads. Changed rear shoes, shock absorbers. Changed the failed UJ on the white roadster. Fitted a nice stereo plus many many other jobs. On reflection all straightforward stuff.
Got good at removing the starter motor. 1hr 10 minis initially, finally just over 5 mins! During the winter French trip I had to hit it with the Krooklock to get it working after each stop. I got the washers and bushed and rebuilt myself back in UK. In the French Alps the car performed superbly - nicely balanced and sure-footed on Snow chains on the rear axle.
Coming back from university to the South coast the A34 south of Oxford was a blizzard and the carbs were starting to ice up. The A34 was gridlocked and I had to go cross country. On the country lanes some of the drifts caused the spoiler to shovel powder snow onto the bonnet. Good fun if a little exciting at times!
Went with mate to see his fiancée who was at a nursing training college south of Edinburgh. Ended up taking him, his fiancée and 3 of her friends out on the town. She sat on his lap in the passenger seat, 2 nurses on the back seat and one in the boot. The engine still pulled well even if the suspension felt a little low.
If you can sort out reasonable insurance then its a good choice. If I had my time again I would go for an overdrive one. I still hanker over one now.
I'm 20 myself, had my '71 BGT 4 months now and its absolutely fantastic. I've used it for everything, camping weekends away and a 300 mile weekly commute. As with all classics it has its troubles and so the engine's coming out at Christmas for a rebuild, but if you've got the patience or money to run a classic then go for it.
As an extra I'm 6"2 and have no trouble at all with comfort in the car
As an extra I'm 6"2 and have no trouble at all with comfort in the car
Gassing Station | MG | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff