Midget buying advice
Discussion
I've found a Midget in what looks like great condition.
It's a 79 without an unleaded head and with 126k on the clock for £2400. I've yet to find out what recon work has been done on the car.
No doubt I'll get it cheaper than the asking price but do I really need to get an unleaded head or would I be better going for a full recon.
What costs might I be looking at for a recon head/engine? Anyone want to part with one better at around £2k?
It's a 79 without an unleaded head and with 126k on the clock for £2400. I've yet to find out what recon work has been done on the car.
No doubt I'll get it cheaper than the asking price but do I really need to get an unleaded head or would I be better going for a full recon.
What costs might I be looking at for a recon head/engine? Anyone want to part with one better at around £2k?
Are you planning to run it on a daily basis or a weekend toy. A unleaded head conversion i think is around the £200 mark could be a bit more and its not hard to get the head of if not that mecahanicly minded. I run my mgb gt with a additive that goes in the tank as i only do 1000 miles a year in it. Just look out for rust on it will kill a car if not treated and costs a lot to repair. Just keep it well maintanied and repair parts straight away dont let problems go on this may lead to greater expensive if not treated straight away.
Thanks Chris. Its a weekend toy so I'll not be adding much to the mileage. Looking through Autotrader I've found plenty of good condition cars (advertiser speak of course)with lower mileage. I'm not looking for blistering performance but should I expect some urgency from the engine 'cos I'm not sure I felt much with the one I drove today. I'm quite happy to take the head off and get it refurbed. Why havent you? Is the additive as good? What about these catalysts that go in the tank?
I guess I need to drive a few more.
I guess I need to drive a few more.
The Triumph experts collective wisdom is that you can run the small Triumph 4 cyl engines on unleaded without additive and not worry about the head for many many mikes. certainly were I you I would focus in condition and worry about heads once you know u are keeping the car for a long haul.
a lot of folks dont like the 1500 engine - as its a Triumph engine. ignore - its a good unit though you need to watch for bottom end wear.
That said, were I in the market for a Midget I would look for an older one.
At that mileage its all about condition. There is no way the engine hasnt had some rebuild work - if it hasnt it will nees some soon.
a lot of folks dont like the 1500 engine - as its a Triumph engine. ignore - its a good unit though you need to watch for bottom end wear.
That said, were I in the market for a Midget I would look for an older one.
At that mileage its all about condition. There is no way the engine hasnt had some rebuild work - if it hasnt it will nees some soon.
I've been driving classics as dailies for 20 years, they were all used for work, holidays, foriegn tours, car club tours, charity passenger rides SBDR
nearer a 1,000 miles a month on most of them
my present Midget is my second daily drive Spridget
generally if you believe in vitamins you may like the additives only a few actually do or get near to what they claim and you have to believe in the tooth fairy to believe in the stuff to go in tanks (used to be very aptly named balls)
for a nippier car you want the 1275 (well I would say that wouldn’t I) but unless you’re very lucky you’ll need to increase your budget for a good one and comments before and after still apply
the MG Enthusiast BBS is a good place for information and advice
My ‘usual advice’ in next post which has cost me many years and many tens of thousands to acquire, yours for free – please keep a copy as you will need to apply it if you buy a Spridget but most of it applies generally to British classics
nearer a 1,000 miles a month on most of them
my present Midget is my second daily drive Spridget
Druid said:
Its a weekend toy so I'll not be adding much to the mileage.
that would be a waste and you'll miss out - and not great for the carDruid said:
Looking through Autotrader I've found plenty of good condition cars (advertiser speak of course)with lower mileage.
forget about mileage on a 30+ year old car condition is everything and that’s mainly of the bodyworkDruid said:
I'm not looking for blistering performance but should I expect some urgency from the engine 'cos I'm not sure I felt much with the one I drove today.
they’ll be like most classics because as I put on another thread:-na said:
Most classic owners either don't fully and properly service, maintain and repair the car
and/or
don't use them anywhere near enough to keep the car running in top condition and for them to learn how to fully drive their car or fully enjoy their car
and/or
don't use them anywhere near enough to keep the car running in top condition and for them to learn how to fully drive their car or fully enjoy their car
Druid said:
I'm quite happy to take the head off and get it refurbed. Why havent you? Is the additive as good? What about these catalysts that go in the tank?
why pay to have the work done until needed plus you’ll probably need that money for other work on the car – you should know this as a TVR owner and before you type anything I’ve owned two TVRs and know others who’ve owned higher multiples of TVRsgenerally if you believe in vitamins you may like the additives only a few actually do or get near to what they claim and you have to believe in the tooth fairy to believe in the stuff to go in tanks (used to be very aptly named balls)
for a nippier car you want the 1275 (well I would say that wouldn’t I) but unless you’re very lucky you’ll need to increase your budget for a good one and comments before and after still apply
the MG Enthusiast BBS is a good place for information and advice
My ‘usual advice’ in next post which has cost me many years and many tens of thousands to acquire, yours for free – please keep a copy as you will need to apply it if you buy a Spridget but most of it applies generally to British classics
if you're Northampton way with your insurance documents I'll let you see how a scruffy very mildly tuned 1275 engined one goes
now the advice
Hi, welcome,
My advice to potential and new owners -
Buy an owners Handbook and read it thoroughly as it tells you so much you need to know to own, drive, service and maintain your car and it’s very useful to have as a paper copy even if you get electronic copies later, one example, other suppliers around, ask owners clubs – http://www.mgocshop.co.uk/catalog/Online_Catalogue...
Look at and test drive as many good examples as you can including some well out of your buying budget to see how good the cars should be and that you may need to increase your budget
It usually works out less expensive to buy a good but higher priced example than a poor lower priced example
If you buy one then;
always have the battery in good condition and all battery connections and leads clean, secure and protected, same for all electrical wiring and connections
As soon as possible after purchase do a full and proper 36,000 miles service only miss out items that you have 100% proof have already been done very recently, including;
g/box and back axle oils
brake and clutch fluids
coolant
dissy cap, rotor arm and leads (buy good quality ones) - http://www.distributordoctor.com/rotor_arms.html
fan belt
For a coolant change drain the whole system - engine block, rad and heater matrix if you can get any of these out to give them a good shake at the same time as flushing and back flushing then all the better - the sequence is use cleaner as per its instructions then flush, back flush and flush and continue this until water runs clear, refill with the correct coolant mixture but bear in mind in tap water isn’t always the best water to use
If you clean the whole of the coolant system and also renew the seals and foam around the heater matrix you will find the heaters can get very hot
As new rubber cooling hoses tend to be poor quality now this is also a good chance to change them to silicone and rounded-edge clips - http://www.classicsiliconehoses.com/
Be aware that brand new parts can sometimes be faulty, especially electrical bits (see just above) so don’t discount them when problem solving just because they are new, buy good quality parts
Check the age of your tyres if they are 6 years old or more replace ASAP regardless of tread depth, this will improve the braking, steering, ride, handling and possibly noise and safety of the car greatly
Use the car regularly - to get used to it, sort out any wrinkles and prevent the problems that occur with lack of use, and to enjoy it
Every few weeks check your horn, wipers and all switches work and heater valve turns on and off (all no problem if you use the car regularly)
Follow regular checks, servicing and maintenance as per owners Handbook
Drive in all weathers, the Midget hood should be very watertight if fitted correctly and the heater is more than adequate, if working correctly, for the small cabin
Do not do any cosmetic or improvement work for at least 12 months of regular use, unless you need to replace parts or components, as you may need to use the money elsewhere on the car
Also very useful, you can get suppliers catalogues for free to get you started to see where things go but in my personal opinion they’re not as good as a paper copy like - http://www.mgocshop.co.uk/catalog/Online_Catalogue...
You can also get an excellent DVD that includes original Parts Catalogues, Parts Fiches, Workshop Manuals and owners Handbooks to have in electronic format - http://www.motoringclassics.co.uk/heritage-range/c...
Cheers, enjoy your car
now the advice
Hi, welcome,
My advice to potential and new owners -
Buy an owners Handbook and read it thoroughly as it tells you so much you need to know to own, drive, service and maintain your car and it’s very useful to have as a paper copy even if you get electronic copies later, one example, other suppliers around, ask owners clubs – http://www.mgocshop.co.uk/catalog/Online_Catalogue...
Look at and test drive as many good examples as you can including some well out of your buying budget to see how good the cars should be and that you may need to increase your budget
It usually works out less expensive to buy a good but higher priced example than a poor lower priced example
If you buy one then;
always have the battery in good condition and all battery connections and leads clean, secure and protected, same for all electrical wiring and connections
As soon as possible after purchase do a full and proper 36,000 miles service only miss out items that you have 100% proof have already been done very recently, including;
g/box and back axle oils
brake and clutch fluids
coolant
dissy cap, rotor arm and leads (buy good quality ones) - http://www.distributordoctor.com/rotor_arms.html
fan belt
For a coolant change drain the whole system - engine block, rad and heater matrix if you can get any of these out to give them a good shake at the same time as flushing and back flushing then all the better - the sequence is use cleaner as per its instructions then flush, back flush and flush and continue this until water runs clear, refill with the correct coolant mixture but bear in mind in tap water isn’t always the best water to use
If you clean the whole of the coolant system and also renew the seals and foam around the heater matrix you will find the heaters can get very hot
As new rubber cooling hoses tend to be poor quality now this is also a good chance to change them to silicone and rounded-edge clips - http://www.classicsiliconehoses.com/
Be aware that brand new parts can sometimes be faulty, especially electrical bits (see just above) so don’t discount them when problem solving just because they are new, buy good quality parts
Check the age of your tyres if they are 6 years old or more replace ASAP regardless of tread depth, this will improve the braking, steering, ride, handling and possibly noise and safety of the car greatly
Use the car regularly - to get used to it, sort out any wrinkles and prevent the problems that occur with lack of use, and to enjoy it
Every few weeks check your horn, wipers and all switches work and heater valve turns on and off (all no problem if you use the car regularly)
Follow regular checks, servicing and maintenance as per owners Handbook
Drive in all weathers, the Midget hood should be very watertight if fitted correctly and the heater is more than adequate, if working correctly, for the small cabin
Do not do any cosmetic or improvement work for at least 12 months of regular use, unless you need to replace parts or components, as you may need to use the money elsewhere on the car
Also very useful, you can get suppliers catalogues for free to get you started to see where things go but in my personal opinion they’re not as good as a paper copy like - http://www.mgocshop.co.uk/catalog/Online_Catalogue...
You can also get an excellent DVD that includes original Parts Catalogues, Parts Fiches, Workshop Manuals and owners Handbooks to have in electronic format - http://www.motoringclassics.co.uk/heritage-range/c...
Cheers, enjoy your car
Spitfire2 said:
The Triumph experts collective wisdom is that you can run the small Triumph 4 cyl engines on unleaded without additive and not worry about the head for many many mikes. certainly were I you I would focus in condition and worry about heads once you know u are keeping the car for a long haul.
a lot of folks dont like the 1500 engine - as its a Triumph engine. ignore - its a good unit though you need to watch for bottom end wear.
That said, were I in the market for a Midget I would look for an older one.
At that mileage its all about condition. There is no way the engine hasnt had some rebuild work - if it hasnt it will nees some soon.
The condition was quite amazing for the age of the car, I have another phone number to contact the previous owner who apparently did most of the work, so that might be useful.a lot of folks dont like the 1500 engine - as its a Triumph engine. ignore - its a good unit though you need to watch for bottom end wear.
That said, were I in the market for a Midget I would look for an older one.
At that mileage its all about condition. There is no way the engine hasnt had some rebuild work - if it hasnt it will nees some soon.
na said:
Loads of useful stuff, thanks for that!
I'm still consuming the contents of your post! I will not be able to drive the MG as you and others have suggested as a daily drive, it will live at a second property that I only get to at weekends. I will keep the Sagaris with me at my weekday address just because of the value. So a weekend toy it is and the cost of repairing it's underuse will just have to be rolled in from the TVR's underuse pot!The reason for the MG itch is it seems to be good value fun for the wonderful roads of the North Yorkshire Moors. Big bills on a MG will pale into insignificance when compared to bills on the TVR and at £2k purchase price much less of a depreciating asset. All in all cheap but with class!
Right back to go through your post again........hmm early Sunday morning, dry roads, I'll get back to your post later just getting the Sag out!
Druid said:
The reason for the MG itch is it seems to be good value fun for the wonderful roads of the North Yorkshire Moors. . .
Sunday morning, dry roads, I'll get back to your post later just getting the Sag out!
great idea - and a Spridget would be great on those roads as I know very wellSunday morning, dry roads, I'll get back to your post later just getting the Sag out!
Druid said:
Big bills on a MG will pale into insignificance when compared to bills on the TVR and at £2k purchase price much less of a depreciating asset. All in all cheap but with class!
if you buy the wrong one you'll be surprised how much momey you can spendI'd suggest £5k+ for a fairly recent Heritage (look it up) reshelled 1275 would be much better value unless you can find a good (full) well done, a few years ago, restoration
So many tarty red (with usually chrome wire wheel) cars out there as that the colour that sells, lots with recent paint but chocker full of present and future woe
a slightly non-show car used regularly will be probably be better than a gleaming "low mileage" example if you want to use the car from the start
weekend only use will be fine as long as it's regularly use with an absolute minimum run of 20 miles without stoping
get a copy of the owners Handbook as there's more and more frequent servicing that modern car and the older the model the model there more there is - minimum of 6 monthly servicing
the longer you lay the car up each year the more you'll be starting over again when it comes out of hibination so if you can bag one run of 20+ miles in a month it's better than being static
starting the engine and leaving it running does little for the engine and absolutely nothing for the rest of the car, if you start it drive then drive
a good battery will keep it's charge as there's lllte electrics on the car and no stupid alarm or immobiliser (later models do have a steering lock)
good luck let us know how you get on
by the copy of the owners Handbook (red cover for research) and thoroughly read and the servicing schedule and then you'll know more than some who own or are sellng the car
Druid said:
Thanks for the advice, Ive bought on condition and upped my purchase price.
well done, a good idea, you should have less problems but keep paper and electronic back ups of my advice to refer to and get that owners Handbook at least you will need itDruid said:
Its a 1973, 1275 BRG Midget.
it should be a nippy car then if it's not it's lack regular driving and regular fully and proper servicing, maintainence and repairthe Midget BBS is a great source of info - http://www2.mgcars.org.uk/cgi-bin/gen5?runprog=mgb...
Druid said:
Photos to follow. 
oh yes Gassing Station | MG | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff