Discussion
Is the black sealant that TVR user to hold the cars together really just silicon sealant, or is it a more robust mastic type of thing. Would silicon sealant stand up to the temperature in the engine bay ?
Local car accessory place offered me a small tube of something that sounds like it would do the job (water proof + heat resistant) but if TVR used it in the quantities that I see on my car , then they'd go bust very quickly.
Local car accessory place offered me a small tube of something that sounds like it would do the job (water proof + heat resistant) but if TVR used it in the quantities that I see on my car , then they'd go bust very quickly.
If it helps, I've used "normal" silicone sealant (clear) from B&Q to reseal around the brake fluid reservoir after stripping out the leaking black mastic.
Seems to work OK as long as you pack down the sides quite well. I filled until just below the level of the bodywork, then let it dry before putting a final layer round the top.
No leaks, looks better, cost bugger all.
Seems to work OK as long as you pack down the sides quite well. I filled until just below the level of the bodywork, then let it dry before putting a final layer round the top.
No leaks, looks better, cost bugger all.
The professional sealent is called Silkoflex (or similar) and is magic but needs a compressed air gun tool to push it of the tube.
Silicone sealent a la B&Q is pretty good at sealing jobs but not as good as adhesive as Silkoflex. If you do use it to seal round the brake fluid reservoir, make sure it is clean otherwise the silicon comes off and the think starts to leak.
This seal should be chceked and replaced on every service.
Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk
Silicone sealent a la B&Q is pretty good at sealing jobs but not as good as adhesive as Silkoflex. If you do use it to seal round the brake fluid reservoir, make sure it is clean otherwise the silicon comes off and the think starts to leak.
This seal should be chceked and replaced on every service.
Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk
Steve,
I take it that a standard "ratchet" gun used for normal DIY sealant tubes is not suitable for use with this Silkoflex stuff ?
What is your view on how silicon sealant would handle the heat in the engine bay.
I was looking through your book last night trying to find out what you used as sealant, but you tend to say that something needs to be sealed etc without saying what to use.
Useful book all the same.
Cheers
Phil
I take it that a standard "ratchet" gun used for normal DIY sealant tubes is not suitable for use with this Silkoflex stuff ?
What is your view on how silicon sealant would handle the heat in the engine bay.
I was looking through your book last night trying to find out what you used as sealant, but you tend to say that something needs to be sealed etc without saying what to use.
Useful book all the same.
Cheers
Phil
Wouldn't want to take issue with Steve, he's written a book after all (which I have btw) ... but I have had no trouble at all with the clear sealant.
Make sure all traces of old sealant are removed, and clean the area thoroughly. With the reservoir the trick is to pack enough sealant down the sides to minimize movement of the reservoir. I filled one side with the reservoir slightly wedged away from the body, let it dry, then removed the wedge and repeated for the other side. Then I sealed that last half inch a little proud of the body, smoothing off with a wet finger.
As you will discover if you drip some on your paintwork by accident and let it dry, silicone sealant can be pretty sticky stuff.
Not a single leak in 2 years, and no sign of any adverse effects from heat. Not that I'd expect any, basically its the same material as the insulation on your HT leads, and they are a bit closer to the action!
I'm sure Sikaflex is damn good stuff, and probably cost effective for dealers and the factory, where labour cost is the main issue, but if you are doing the job yourself and prepared to invest the time to do it properly, as with many things, the job can be done as well (if not better) with cheaper materials.
PS I used clear silicone for cosmetic reasons, not because I'm cheap! I just didn't like the black gunge.
Edited by philshort on Wednesday 14th November 10:51
Make sure all traces of old sealant are removed, and clean the area thoroughly. With the reservoir the trick is to pack enough sealant down the sides to minimize movement of the reservoir. I filled one side with the reservoir slightly wedged away from the body, let it dry, then removed the wedge and repeated for the other side. Then I sealed that last half inch a little proud of the body, smoothing off with a wet finger.
As you will discover if you drip some on your paintwork by accident and let it dry, silicone sealant can be pretty sticky stuff.
Not a single leak in 2 years, and no sign of any adverse effects from heat. Not that I'd expect any, basically its the same material as the insulation on your HT leads, and they are a bit closer to the action!
I'm sure Sikaflex is damn good stuff, and probably cost effective for dealers and the factory, where labour cost is the main issue, but if you are doing the job yourself and prepared to invest the time to do it properly, as with many things, the job can be done as well (if not better) with cheaper materials.
PS I used clear silicone for cosmetic reasons, not because I'm cheap! I just didn't like the black gunge.
Edited by philshort on Wednesday 14th November 10:51
Sikaflex is available from motor factors at about 11-12 quid a tube (about the size of a small B&Q silicone tube). It is certainly possible to use in a normal rachet tube gun as I have done so on numerous occasions and I am not superman.
Clive Reed
Zertec Limited
info@zertec.co.uk
www.zertec.co.uk
Clive Reed
Zertec Limited
info@zertec.co.uk
www.zertec.co.uk
I use silicone sealent and it is pretty good and easy to use. I wouldn't use it where I need some real good adhesion as it can be a bit suspect. Doesn't mean that silicone won't do the job, it may but you might need to redo it, that's all.
As for Sikaflex: it is good stuff but when Tower View gave me some for a small job they warned me about the stiffness and I really struggled to get it out of the tube with the normal hand tool. So much that I ended up using black silicone. Sealing an access panel at the time.
With a compressed air gun it is a real doddle and easier to control because you are not putting a lot of effort into it. In this respect, silicone is far easier to use.
Regards
Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk
As for Sikaflex: it is good stuff but when Tower View gave me some for a small job they warned me about the stiffness and I really struggled to get it out of the tube with the normal hand tool. So much that I ended up using black silicone. Sealing an access panel at the time.
With a compressed air gun it is a real doddle and easier to control because you are not putting a lot of effort into it. In this respect, silicone is far easier to use.
Regards
Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk
Forgot to say that I normally warm the tube up first.
Clive Reed
Zertec Limited
info@zertec.co.uk
www.zertec.co.uk
Clive Reed
Zertec Limited
info@zertec.co.uk
www.zertec.co.uk
quote:
Sikaflex is available from motor factors at about 11-12 quid a tube (about the size of a small B&Q silicone tube). It is certainly possible to use in a normal rachet tube gun as I have done so on numerous occasions and I am not superman.
Yes but you're the man that creates new manifolds by bending the tube by hand!
We are not worthy!
Steve
I've only had to replace a headlight bulb once myself... the other two times co-incided with a visit to the dealer. I just used ordinary silicone sealant that time. I think the difference is whether or not you need some decent adhesive qualities as opposed to just "filling in the gaps".
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