Annoying Problem
Discussion
Sounds like starter motor problems again - seems to be quite common. I believe it is related to the massive heat that gets generated under the bonnet that affects the starter motor over time as it doen't have sufficient shielding.
Luckily start motor replacement isn't too expensive.
someone else might know if there is some way to shield the motor from the huge heat build up.
Suggest you get it sorted soon as it will only get worse.
Phil
Luckily start motor replacement isn't too expensive.
someone else might know if there is some way to shield the motor from the huge heat build up.
Suggest you get it sorted soon as it will only get worse.
Phil
Don't think it's the starter motor as there is no clicking when its turning over. And it was recently reconditioned due to water ingress, and now has it's own plastic shield, not that much heat down there I think?
Have been told it could be intermitent sparking probs, or fueling, but looks like it's going to the car doctors soon as it's winding me up having to push the thing away from juctions all the time, not a cool image!
Have been told it could be intermitent sparking probs, or fueling, but looks like it's going to the car doctors soon as it's winding me up having to push the thing away from juctions all the time, not a cool image!
Definitely not the starter motor - that wouldn't cause it to cut out.
The first thing is to check the stepper motor is clean (this has been discussed lots of times - do a search on the egroups list). Not sure that would cause the car to not restart though - does it fire then splutter to a halt? You might have a fuelling problem (vapourisation etc.).
T/.
Edited by trefor on Thursday 18th October 14:40
The first thing is to check the stepper motor is clean (this has been discussed lots of times - do a search on the egroups list). Not sure that would cause the car to not restart though - does it fire then splutter to a halt? You might have a fuelling problem (vapourisation etc.).
T/.
Edited by trefor on Thursday 18th October 14:40
I'm only suggesting that this is the same thing that I was getting and that turned out to be the Starter motor on its way.
Engine would cut out and then couldn't be started again for a period of time. There was absolutely no clicking noise from the starter when I tried to start it either.
I agree that it seems unlikely that this would cause the engine to cut out, but this is exactly what was happening to mine.
Maybe my problem was a combination of this stepper motor + starter motor.
Anyway, Mole Valley managed to sort the problem for me with a replacement starter motor under warantee.
Engine would cut out and then couldn't be started again for a period of time. There was absolutely no clicking noise from the starter when I tried to start it either.
I agree that it seems unlikely that this would cause the engine to cut out, but this is exactly what was happening to mine.
Maybe my problem was a combination of this stepper motor + starter motor.
Anyway, Mole Valley managed to sort the problem for me with a replacement starter motor under warantee.
I've experienced a similar problem, whilst stuck in stand-still traffic on the M4. Turned the engine off but left the key in the ignition with the systems left on. When the traffic started moving the car wouldn't start, and no turn over of the starter motor.
Figured it was the immobiliser, even though the signal light remained off with the key in the ignition, so tried to disable it as normal. Car still wouldn't start so had to embarrassingly push it over to the hard shoulder.A number of tries to disable the immobiliser failed. I decided to let the car sit for a couple of minutes with the keys out of the ignition, then went through the process again and it started fine. I assumed the immobiliser gets 'confused' when the engine is turned off but the keys left in with systems on.
Figured it was the immobiliser, even though the signal light remained off with the key in the ignition, so tried to disable it as normal. Car still wouldn't start so had to embarrassingly push it over to the hard shoulder.A number of tries to disable the immobiliser failed. I decided to let the car sit for a couple of minutes with the keys out of the ignition, then went through the process again and it started fine. I assumed the immobiliser gets 'confused' when the engine is turned off but the keys left in with systems on.
Swilly, I can sympathise with that.
Yesterday I was off to Knutsford and the engine was revving eratically between 1000 and 2000 when it should have been idling (its done this a couple of times recently since a service, never before). So, I turned the engine off when the traffic became stationary, hoping that the ecu or some other wonderful piece of electonic wizardary would reset itself.
Result - car would not restart, although starter motor was turning over. Anyway, I got to the side of the road, left it for about 2 mins and tried again - vroooooom - no more problems with idle and perfect journey to Knutsford. Before this, I have never had a problem with the car not starting but to be fair (ish), I've never tried to restart the car within 20-30 seconds of turning it off.
Edited by macca on Friday 19th October 00:14
Yesterday I was off to Knutsford and the engine was revving eratically between 1000 and 2000 when it should have been idling (its done this a couple of times recently since a service, never before). So, I turned the engine off when the traffic became stationary, hoping that the ecu or some other wonderful piece of electonic wizardary would reset itself.
Result - car would not restart, although starter motor was turning over. Anyway, I got to the side of the road, left it for about 2 mins and tried again - vroooooom - no more problems with idle and perfect journey to Knutsford. Before this, I have never had a problem with the car not starting but to be fair (ish), I've never tried to restart the car within 20-30 seconds of turning it off.
Edited by macca on Friday 19th October 00:14
I had a problem like that on my CRX. Apparently a lot of soalnoids are opereated directly by the battery. Unfortunatley my battery unknown to me was not holding its charge very well so after a run, whilst stopping for petrol etc it wouldnt start for 10 minutes. As soon as I replaced the battery, hey presto. Bobs your aunties liv in lover and I was away. Might be your problem.
quote:
Yesterday I was off to Knutsford and the engine was revving eratically between 1000 and 2000 when it should have been idling (its done this a couple of times recently since a service, never before).
My car has done this idling at 2000rpm once or twice since its last service. I have checked the stepper motor and it is clean and fitted properly. Usually only does this when the engine is hot and you are stuck in heavy traffic. The battery is fine.
Any ideas?
Edited by Foss on Friday 19th October 09:37
quote:
I've experienced a similar problem, whilst stuck in stand-still traffic on the M4. Turned the engine off but left the key in the ignition with the systems left on. When the traffic started moving the car wouldn't start, and no turn over of the starter motor.
Figured it was the immobiliser, even though the signal light remained off with the key in the ignition, so tried to disable it as normal. Car still wouldn't start so had to embarrassingly push it over to the hard shoulder.A number of tries to disable the immobiliser failed. I decided to let the car sit for a couple of minutes with the keys out of the ignition, then went through the process again and it started fine. I assumed the immobiliser gets 'confused' when the engine is turned off but the keys left in with systems on.
swilly, the imobiliser thought went through my mind when I was having my problems. In fact I actually phoned MV to ask how common it was for the imobiliser to go wrong and it was then that they told me that the problem would probably turn out to be the starter motor. Which is supposedly what they ended up replacing for me. Whatever, they fixed the problem for me and I haven't had a re-occurance of that problem for 9+ months.
Phil
Foss,
Mine has only doen it when started from cold (2 occasions). I intially thought it was a result of the engine revving a little low when cold and the management system trying to compensate. However, it carried on for about 10 - 15 minutes before I switched off. Something must have reset itself because the problem disappeared after the shut down.
Mine has only doen it when started from cold (2 occasions). I intially thought it was a result of the engine revving a little low when cold and the management system trying to compensate. However, it carried on for about 10 - 15 minutes before I switched off. Something must have reset itself because the problem disappeared after the shut down.
Mine had this problem too.
After a drive, seemed only when the temperature got up to around 90 that this started happening... turn it off and couldn't restart for about 10 minutes. The engine would sound like it was going to turn over, but never did. Sometimes if you pumped the gas like mad you could bring it to life!
Took it to the dealer and they turned the thermostat down (so it ran at 90 instead of 120!) and replaced the starter motor. It's been fine since!
- ChimaeraWolf
- P56 SAH - Black Chimaera 4.0
After a drive, seemed only when the temperature got up to around 90 that this started happening... turn it off and couldn't restart for about 10 minutes. The engine would sound like it was going to turn over, but never did. Sometimes if you pumped the gas like mad you could bring it to life!
Took it to the dealer and they turned the thermostat down (so it ran at 90 instead of 120!) and replaced the starter motor. It's been fine since!
- ChimaeraWolf
- P56 SAH - Black Chimaera 4.0
Raceboy...
We're not sharing the same car in some strange paradox of the time-space continum or something like that are we...?
I had the same engine cut-out problem, and then had the old alarm going off whenever and wherever I left it!
Have you ever armed the alarm and then started the car with the alarm light lit permanently, then turned it off and then the alarm went off? This happened to me, and ever since my alarm has been screwed up...
- ChimaeraWolf
- P56 SAH - Black Chimaera 4.0
We're not sharing the same car in some strange paradox of the time-space continum or something like that are we...?
I had the same engine cut-out problem, and then had the old alarm going off whenever and wherever I left it!
Have you ever armed the alarm and then started the car with the alarm light lit permanently, then turned it off and then the alarm went off? This happened to me, and ever since my alarm has been screwed up...
- ChimaeraWolf
- P56 SAH - Black Chimaera 4.0
The cars actually got 2 alarms, the standard TVR alarm, with the led in the dash, which is fine, the problems are with the aftermarket, insurance friendly, cat 1 Clifford alarm it does not like getting wet! But hopefully the alarm fitters are going to sort it out on Monday, 
its there every 6 months, but at least its covered under the warrenty!
its there every 6 months, but at least its covered under the warrenty!
Guys, Took the Tiv to London this weekend and the annoying idling/stalling problem has returned.
Car runs ok, but when hot (90-95 degC) in stop start driving, when you come to a stop, press the brake pedal and the engine idles briefly at 400rpm and dies. It re-starts ok but you have to 'play' with the throttle pedal to keep the engine running. Also noticed that at low speeds in a high gear the engine tends to shunt. Above 1500rpm the engine is fine and performing as it should.
I have cleaned the idle solenoid (repeatedly), checked vacuum hoses and the obvious things. I haven't tried disconnecting the ECU to reset the memory, but suspect this just temporarily masks the problem. Also the car is used frequently, so it's not some kind of 'lay-up' issue.
How do I read fault codes from the ECU? Has anyone else experienced this annoying problem. It is getting really frustrating now and is taking away the pleasure!!
PS. Went to a BMW drivers club meeting at Donington Park as a couple of mates have M3 EVOs. Spent ages explaining the benefits of Tivs against M3s, i.e. image, performance etc. These guys came back with 'they are ok in a straight line whilst they are running...ha...ha' Argued my case for reliability to these guys & ended up red faced as my car let me down on the way home.
Not a good weekend!
Please help?
Foss
Car runs ok, but when hot (90-95 degC) in stop start driving, when you come to a stop, press the brake pedal and the engine idles briefly at 400rpm and dies. It re-starts ok but you have to 'play' with the throttle pedal to keep the engine running. Also noticed that at low speeds in a high gear the engine tends to shunt. Above 1500rpm the engine is fine and performing as it should.
I have cleaned the idle solenoid (repeatedly), checked vacuum hoses and the obvious things. I haven't tried disconnecting the ECU to reset the memory, but suspect this just temporarily masks the problem. Also the car is used frequently, so it's not some kind of 'lay-up' issue.
How do I read fault codes from the ECU? Has anyone else experienced this annoying problem. It is getting really frustrating now and is taking away the pleasure!!
PS. Went to a BMW drivers club meeting at Donington Park as a couple of mates have M3 EVOs. Spent ages explaining the benefits of Tivs against M3s, i.e. image, performance etc. These guys came back with 'they are ok in a straight line whilst they are running...ha...ha' Argued my case for reliability to these guys & ended up red faced as my car let me down on the way home.
Not a good weekend!
Please help?
Foss
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