[Pupp]

Same time as the reed valves are serviced...and it's priceless! V8??...just four TL1000s zip-tied together, innit!?

[Pupp]

Err...actually there is no cam-belt on the Rover v8 derived motors...it's a basic push-rod jobbie and the cam is driven by single-row or duplex chain depending on capacity. Have not seen any service schedule indicating these have a finite life and should be changed at a particular mileage. There are no reed-valves either...sorry, bad joke V8??...just four TL1000s zip-tied together, innit!?

[trefor]

Camshafts seem to be more of a service item - Rover/Buick V8 design flaw causes cylinder 8 exhaust lobe to wear out through lack of oil (I think). Had mine changed at 30k and I know of many more which have been done between 25 and 50k. At this time the mechanics can check the condition of the timing gear and renew if necessary.

[trefor]

My symptoms were not typical so I can't really comment. A rattly engine may be other things such as worn valve gear or even a blowing exhaust manifold gasket.

[tractorboy]

There was a posting on Peter Beeches site about engine wear on TVR V8's and basically in most cases its was down to too thin an engine oil being used.The oil pumps work at fairly low pressure due to design and have trouble to get thin oil around to the furthest reaches of the engine on start up hense the early life span. Try using a slightly thicker oil maybe, some of the other lads on this site can probably help more on the types and makes , im thinking of using a different oil myself so i'd be interested on any advice...

[Pupp]

Can't accept that a "thin" oil would pose a problem here...the pump may work at lowish pressure (although this is really more to do with bearing clearances and flow restriction etc) but does pump high volumes of oil. Thin oil on startup will be an advantage in that it will travel faster through the galleries, bearings and drillings than a "thicker" equivalent. In the absence of a specific design defect (sub-20k mileage is indicative of something being fundamentally wrong but I would imagine the extended production life of the v8 has given ample time for such things to be identified and addressed), I would expect driver behaviour to be the biggest culprit. ie too much eagerness to load up the engine from cold. This is a big lump and it conceivably could take a couple of minutes for oil to flow all the way round the system. Just because pressure registers on the guage doesn't indicate that process is complete, only that oil has started to meet the resistance of (perhaps the first) restrictions to it's path. Have had great results with GTX Maganatec in bike race motors where similar issues of start-up wear arise and where engine speeds are significantly higher. Makers claim this stuff clings to surfaces better and thereby provides enhanced start-up protection by not fully draining away. Anyone any experience in TIVs? It's cheaper than Mobil 1 too! V8??...just four TL1000s zip-tied together, innit!?

[chimpboy]

quote:Can't accept that a "thin" oil would pose a problem here...the pump may work at lowish pressure (although this is really more to do with bearing clearances and flow restriction etc) but does pump high volumes of oil. Thin oil on startup will be an advantage in that it will travel faster through the galleries, bearings and drillings than a "thicker" equivalent. In the absence of a specific design defect (sub-20k mileage is indicative of something being fundamentally wrong but I would imagine the extended production life of the v8 has given ample time for such things to be identified and addressed), I would expect driver behaviour to be the biggest culprit. ie too much eagerness to load up the engine from cold. This is a big lump and it conceivably could take a couple of minutes for oil to flow all the way round the system. Just because pressure registers on the guage doesn't indicate that process is complete, only that oil has started to meet the resistance of (perhaps the first) restrictions to it's path. Have had great results with GTX Maganatec in bike race motors where similar issues of start-up wear arise and where engine speeds are significantly higher. Makers claim this stuff clings to surfaces better and thereby provides enhanced start-up protection by not fully draining away. Anyone any experience in TIVs? It's cheaper than Mobil 1 too! V8??...just four TL1000s zip-tied together, innit!?

I've heard that some TVR dealers use GTX Magnatec instead of Mobil 1. Skimming through the history that came with my car they've used it in my '94 4LTR Chimp in the past.

[ATG]

Train spotting time: I was calibrating a temperature sender by immersing it in engine oil and then giving it a blast with a blow lamp (obviously a sensible thing to do ). The change in viscosity was enormous. Started off at room temperature like golden syrup and ended up like water by the time it reached 120 centigrade (at which point there was quite a bit of smoke and I chickened out). I'm in the process of rigging up an oil temperature sender in the sump precisely to try to avoid nuking the engine before it is lubricated. If anyone has any suggestions along these lines, I'd be glad of their advice.

[manek]

Three things: 1. I also fancy installing an oil temp sender (why did TVR think only the Griff needed one??) so I'd welcome hearing your experiences. 2. Peninsula will do it for you for not much ISTR. 3. There's a piece about it on Peter Beech's Workshop Notes (passim). About three years ago I met the guy who wrote that piece -- he no longer has a TVR and fyi was also a founder member of the UK Daf Owners' Club -- and saw what it looked like on his car, and it definitely looked worth it. In fact, I almost bought the car... -Manek-

[IPAddis]

quote:Three things: 1. I also fancy installing an oil temp sender (why did TVR think only the Griff needed one??) so I'd welcome hearing your experiences.-Manek-

They didn't/it doesn't. Griff clocks are from left to right: Clock, Volts, Fuel, Oil Pressure, Speed, Revs, Water Temperature Ian A Griff 500