Discussion
I need a solution to solve two problems in one go!
My Chimaera has a ''slow'' drivers door electric window which refuses to wind all the way down; an inch of glass remains above the door. When I inspected the alignment of the glass and compared left and right doors, I noticed that the driver''s window sits all the to the outside of the door frame. This also means that with the door closed, the window does not make a tight seal against the rubber and explains the minor leaks that I have experienced!
Does anyone know how to effectively adjust the window so that the glass moves inwards and sits centrally in the door frame as I believe this will solve both problems?
Vmax,
Had a similar prob with my Chim (not the door gap, though). My drivers side window would take ages to wind up. Got my dealer to have a look and there was something obstructing the frame inside the door, probably come loose etc. Easy (and cheap) to fix (I don't think I was charged for the work)
Look around the Chimaera forum because I've seen the window gap mentioned before.
Hope this helps
Steve
I fixed this on my 500 a couple of weeks ago. There was a very good guide to doing this sort of thing on the http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Peter_Beech/TVR/WSNCONT.HTM
Basically you need to take the inside door panels off in order to get to the window guide rail. Getting these panels off is quite a tricky art as the only access to the retaining nuts/bolts is via the speaker hole. I still have scuffs and scratches all over my hands and arms from this fix. Note that unlike the process described in the note, I had 4 bolts holding my door panel on instead of 3. However, the extra one (even further towards the read of the door !) looked like a later addition that had been rivited on.
Aparently the glass can get wedged between the rubber and the metal in the window guider and this is what slows the window + limits its progress.
My window guide rail has obviously had some previous work done to it as the holes for the bolts were huge. Infact, I think this is where my problem was because as the window came down, it seemed to push the guide rail to one side (even though it was bolted in place) as the holes were so big for the bolts. I managed to rig up a large washer with one side cut off so that it was over one of the bolts but also wedged against the open hole for the bolt (if you see what I mean). The result (albeit a bit of a fiddle) is that the bolt cannot move in the large hole and the whole guide rail now stays in place as the window goes up and down. The window also now moved up at the same rate as the passenger window now.
It was quite a fiddly job as you need to put your arm into the speaker hole past the elbow. At several points I got my arm wedged and had visions of having to get someone to call the fire brigade out to rescue this idiot with a car door stuck on his arm.
Good luck !
Phil
Just got back from casualty having had the skin regrafted onto my arm. Came very close to being forced to wear a Chimaera door on my arm for the rest of my life ...... but anyway the jobs done.
The window alignment was easy. At the very top of the inside of the door, the rear window guide rail is secured with a single bolt. Following some deft hand work with a socket and ratchet inside the door, the bolt can be loosened and the whole window guide rail moved inwards before retightening the bolt! The window now makes a tight (normal) seal on the door rubber and the window speed is improved.
One problem remains: my drivers window will not retract fully into the door. Couldn't for the life of me get it to adjust or see what was stopping it from going fully down (about 1 cm of glass protrudes from door when window fully down). Any ideas gratefully received.
Anyway, it was starting to get dark, so I put it all back together, jumped in the beast and went out to waste half a tank of super unleaded 
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