Anyone taken the body off a Chimaera?
Discussion
In the process of replacing the front wishbones on my 500 Chimp, I am becoming increasingly dismayed at the levels of corrosion underneath the car. Practically every welded joint on the chassis is corroded - this is a 1996 model.
Some of the rusted parts are very inaccessible. Has anyone actually attempted a body removal, or would I be sectioned for even thinking of doing this myself? It doesn''t need to come right off, just maybe hinge it up 6 inches or so at the front, then same at the back to allow all the bottom chassis rails to be properly stripped and painted.
Its not bad enough to warrant a new chassis, but if not treated now it will be in a couple more years.
Alternatively, has anyone actually had to rechassis a Chimaera yet? I can''t believe mine is the only rusted one out there, and some must have had shunts bad enough to need a chassis replacement. If so, how much did it cost?
Hi Phil,
this is a bit worrying. I don't know of anyone removing the body shell from a Chimaera, but the "S" buys do it a fair bit, as they've often aged more. Might be worth posting on there as I'm sure they'll have some tips that will be universal to TVRs. They won't be *that* different, although the tolerances might be closer on the Chim and harder to work on.
Xain
Xain
The rust is, at the moment, mostly surface rust, and apart from a few paint chips on the outriggers seems mainly to emanate from the welded joints.
Maybe I am being picky, maybe they're all like that at 5 years and it is nothing to worry about, but I don't like it all the same.
I don't know about anyone else, but I struggled hard to buy my Chimp. A major factor in the purchase (or rather a major factor in selling the idea to 'er indoors! 
) was that once paid for it was ours for life - its fibreglass, it won't rust away.
I used to rebuild motorbikes, and always had the frames plastic coated (we're talking pre alloy frames days here kiddies). They never rusted.
I had stupidly assumed that a similar level of care would have been applied by TVR to the chassis - its supposed to be powder coated after all. They forgot to mention it was talcum powder.
I'll try a post on the S forum, see if I get any general pointers - good idea, thanks.
) was that once paid for it was ours for life - its fibreglass, it won't rust away.
I used to rebuild motorbikes, and always had the frames plastic coated (we're talking pre alloy frames days here kiddies). They never rusted.
I had stupidly assumed that a similar level of care would have been applied by TVR to the chassis - its supposed to be powder coated after all. They forgot to mention it was talcum powder.
I'll try a post on the S forum, see if I get any general pointers - good idea, thanks. The rust is, at the moment, mostly surface rust, and apart from a few paint chips on the outriggers seems mainly to emanate from the welded joints.
________________________________________
Phil,
the same here on my ´96 Griff.
That was really well kept since.
Was getting worried, so I put it
on my pit.
Brush-cleaned all accesible rust,
applied rust-converter, then rust-stopper, covered then with alloy-spray, which looks and fits really great to the cleaned untouched frame-parts.
Finally sprayed WD-40 spray anywhere
I could reach (or not) incl. engine and bay.
A shop around has a really good
offer, so I couldn´t resist buying
20 of 400ml cans of WD-40 just for 2 quid each.
So, much more to spray now, but I would really be afraid, if there is not more left than plasic in some few years.
If it really works and how it looks
like I´ll going to tell you next year, after a hard winter.
BTW after this treatment shortly after first start the car was dramatically covered in heavy clouds of steam and smoke, only for two minutes, but made the car look like a real Greek Cerbera.
quote:Just a warning but WD-40 washes off pretty quickly in the rain. I use it on my maountain bike and you can see it just running off when it's wet! Sorry Rich...
Finally sprayed WD-40 spray anywhere I could reach (or not) incl. engine and bay. A shop around has a really good offer, so I couldn´t resist buying 20 of 400ml cans of WD-40 just for 2 quid each.
sounds daft but I was advised to put old engine oil over my wishbones for protection so I got an old brush and slapped some on.....RESULT! after some of the most horrendous downpours ever the oil is still there and no more rust,not pretty but doesn't look as bad as rusty wishbones. Better than lard too...no more dogs chasing me
I took the body off my old 1600M a few years ago, it took about a day to get the car into a suitable state for the work. Disconnect everything, remove as much of the interior as possible. Take off doors etc. I then unbolted the body (with the help of an angle grinder) and four of us lifted it off. I have a 96 Griff and have just had my front top wishbones changed cos they had corroded so badly, TVR are pants when it comes to this sort of thing.
D.
quote:That what they used to do with the old works rally cars apparently, I have used the same on my mini although it normally does it itself
sounds daft but I was advised to put old engine oil over my wishbones for protection so I got an old brush and slapped some on.....RESULT! after some of the most horrendous downpours ever the oil is still there and no more rust,not pretty but doesn't look as bad as rusty wishbones. Better than lard too...no more dogs chasing me
My 98 chim is exactly the same and have all the same fears so have been told to strip it hammerite it and waxoil it (not sure if thats all spelt right don't shoot me for it) but this seems to be a very common fault and a real pain in the rear end to say the least.Fernhurst quoted me £750 to do the job but am going to attempt to do it my self in the cold winter months.
Thanks everyone for your comments, on and off forum.
It looks like the job is do-able on DIY basis. I think I'll patch up as best I can for now, to allow some use for what remains of the year, and its body off over the winter for a full chassis renovation.
I've already started, using some stuff from Frosts (www.frost.co.uk), so fingers crossed that there will still be some chassis to renovate in a few months!
It would be good to get some feedback from TVR on this issue - especially as cars as young as 3 years are corroded. Are they doing anything to improve the quality of finish on the chassis?
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