Another PAS thread
Discussion
Sorry for starting up another thread regarding this, but I didn't want to hijack GRC85's thread, but mine has started playing up so guess it could do with a refurb, however I think I was reading somewhere or a clip on youTube maybe that some TVR's have quicker racks than the Chimaera, I believe these are 2.2 turns from lock to lock, but saw somewhere that some are 2? maybe a Tuscan or Tamora or something? are these a universal fit, in other words will other TVR racks fit on a Chimaera? I love the quick rack and perhaps a bit quicker would be great. The electric option could be appealing, but like i said the quicker rack is good and I was wondering if the electric ones are the same, more or less?
Some of the quicker Subaru racks are 2.2 turns if you wanted to go down that route, the conversion is a pita though having done it myself but once done is a nice idea.
My advice is to just leave it well alone and enjoy it.
Kiley Clinton seem to be the go to for refurbs but i have read of some failing again a few years later so im not sure what the issues are.
My advice is to just leave it well alone and enjoy it.
Kiley Clinton seem to be the go to for refurbs but i have read of some failing again a few years later so im not sure what the issues are.
BritishTvr450 said:
Non pas Chims/Griff are 2.7 turns lock to lock.
Pas =2.5
Later Tvr cars are 2.2
No you can’t fit later 2.2 racks to Chim/Griff cars.
When you say playing up what do you mean by that..
It's leaking and heavier at times light at others and no that's not as the speed, difficult to explain, I know they are a bit weighted any way but mine is quite heavy at timesPas =2.5
Later Tvr cars are 2.2
No you can’t fit later 2.2 racks to Chim/Griff cars.
When you say playing up what do you mean by that..
That is weird though as some research i done or someone told me, cant remember now that non PAS are 2.5 turns and PAS are 2.2, ok my mistake, mine is a 2000 400 by the way
Belle427 said:
Some of the quicker Subaru racks are 2.2 turns if you wanted to go down that route, the conversion is a pita though having done it myself but once done is a nice idea.
My advice is to just leave it well alone and enjoy it.
Kiley Clinton seem to be the go to for refurbs but i have read of some failing again a few years later so im not sure what the issues are.
I'm happy to just get mine refurbed, i just remember my old one was non PAS and had PAS fitted by Dulford, it was quite a cheap job back then, I found a reconditioned rack for I think it was 200 quid and the garage fitted it for me and it was a massive difference. My advice is to just leave it well alone and enjoy it.
Kiley Clinton seem to be the go to for refurbs but i have read of some failing again a few years later so im not sure what the issues are.
What brought this up was I saw something on you tube and a mechanic said that the Tuscan or Tamora or something was 2 turns from lock to lock and I happened to find one on ebay and I thought to myself, I wonder if that would fit my car lol, hence my questioning
As you have Pas just check the turns.
Many things have been said over the years.
Simply go from lock to lock checking how many turns of the wheel it takes, then put the steering wheel in its central position and do the same left and right.
If you get 1.25 turns each way the steering is set centrally and correctly.
If your steering goes tight at any point you should first check the two UJ knuckle joints on the steering arm are not binding ( knackered)
This is often the cause of tight spots.
If it’s leaking it’s usually one of 3 seals, one each end of the rack and one on the outbound shaft the steering arm connects too.
The latter one can be replaced easily but requires the rack to be removed.
If it’s the ones internally in the rack it needs a professional refurb.
Many things have been said over the years.
Simply go from lock to lock checking how many turns of the wheel it takes, then put the steering wheel in its central position and do the same left and right.
If you get 1.25 turns each way the steering is set centrally and correctly.
If your steering goes tight at any point you should first check the two UJ knuckle joints on the steering arm are not binding ( knackered)
This is often the cause of tight spots.
If it’s leaking it’s usually one of 3 seals, one each end of the rack and one on the outbound shaft the steering arm connects too.
The latter one can be replaced easily but requires the rack to be removed.
If it’s the ones internally in the rack it needs a professional refurb.
BritishTvr450 said:
As you have Pas just check the turns.
Many things have been said over the years.
Simply go from lock to lock checking how many turns of the wheel it takes, then put the steering wheel in its central position and do the same left and right.
If you get 1.25 turns each way the steering is set centrally and correctly.
If your steering goes tight at any point you should first check the two UJ knuckle joints on the steering arm are not binding ( knackered)
This is often the cause of tight spots.
If it’s leaking it’s usually one of 3 seals, one each end of the rack and one on the outbound shaft the steering arm connects too.
The latter one can be replaced easily but requires the rack to be removed.
If it’s the ones internally in the rack it needs a professional refurb.
There you go, he does it again, that sounds like a realistic possibility I'll check those joints as soon as the weather is less bad. Thank youMany things have been said over the years.
Simply go from lock to lock checking how many turns of the wheel it takes, then put the steering wheel in its central position and do the same left and right.
If you get 1.25 turns each way the steering is set centrally and correctly.
If your steering goes tight at any point you should first check the two UJ knuckle joints on the steering arm are not binding ( knackered)
This is often the cause of tight spots.
If it’s leaking it’s usually one of 3 seals, one each end of the rack and one on the outbound shaft the steering arm connects too.
The latter one can be replaced easily but requires the rack to be removed.
If it’s the ones internally in the rack it needs a professional refurb.
I must say I do think something is up with the geometry or something as when I am on full lock, the front wheels scuff, I've read threads on here regarding the back wheels can which could be related to the diff, but forwards or reverse mine scuff. yes the car does drive in a straight line though
BritishTvr450 said:
Very odd. That shouldn’t be happening with that size.
PAS pump packed up today too, it made a whirring sound for a bit now steering is heavy, something else that could have something to do with it lol, prices range from 78 quid on ebay, 130 quid Motaclan and 450 quid from Racetech... are they a DIY fit or more technical?Andy70 said:
PAS pump packed up today too, it made a whirring sound for a bit now steering is heavy, something else that could have something to do with it lol, prices range from 78 quid on ebay, 130 quid Motaclan and 450 quid from Racetech... are they a DIY fit or more technical?
Its a DIY job but a very messy one. Renew all the hoses and clips at the same time. Drain all the old fluid in case there are any metal bits in there from the knackered pump. Most of the fluid will be everywhere anyway once you start undoing everything.Clean everything, including the inside of the PAS fluid bottle.
Might be worth considering getting the rack refurbed also, so you then know everything is ok.
TJC46 said:
Its a DIY job but a very messy one. Renew all the hoses and clips at the same time. Drain all the old fluid in case there are any metal bits in there from the knackered pump. Most of the fluid will be everywhere anyway once you start undoing everything.
Clean everything, including the inside of the PAS fluid bottle.
Might be worth considering getting the rack refurbed also, so you then know everything is ok.
Most definitely, shame there is little to no self help for these cars on You Tube just to point me in the right direction, I've said before I was surprised with that as they seem to be popular 'tinkerers' cars Clean everything, including the inside of the PAS fluid bottle.
Might be worth considering getting the rack refurbed also, so you then know everything is ok.
Thanks for the tips
Belle427 said:
Never done one myself but i assume its a rangie pump so maybe one of those will show the basics, one of those jobs really that's pretty self explanatory. Get a large syringe or fluid extraction tool, they are quite handy.
I had a quick look on you tube at land rover clips, but so far only came across more modern ones so far, I have a syringe I bought to pump in my gearbox fluid, 500mls I think, will that do?I must admit, it does look reasonably straight forward, even for me, I'm not any where near an amateur mechanic, I just wanted to have a tinker where I could and so far done quite a few jobs myself, it's just the wrong time of year daylight wise now really, but the more knowledge i build the easier it will be when I find the time, I've not even sorted my heater yet lol, but I got some ideas brewing thanks to you guys
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