Hot start issue or just sulking?

[Jordie Barretts sock]

Took my 450 for it's MOT today. Been sitting in rhe garage on it's Optimate since the end of September. Been fired up and warmed through a few times since.

Drove to the MOT today, 25 miles. No issues. Stopped, started her up, emissions test, all OK. Stopped her again. Then onto the ramp for steering, brakes, etc. Fuel pump primed, but nothing at all on turning the key against the spring. All the dash lights normal, just nothing.

Pushed her off the ramp and she bump started no problem. Left her running with the bonnet up for the rest of the test. Had a rummage in the footwell and checked the hot start wiring modification (fitted before I bought the car) and all good. Nothing looking iffy.

Drive her home and back into the garage. Switched off and she immediately restarted on the key, no problem.

I've rearranged a loose connection in the mess on top of the battery haven't I?

Or was it the promise of lots of open road over the summer on the way home?

[Belle427]

Certainly sounds like it but its worth checking the connections on the hot start kit as they are generally thrown in with little care.
It should have a fuse dangling near it somewhere.

[Jordie Barretts sock]

Yeah, that 'fuse' is missing. I can see where it goes, in between the two connectors that are joined together!

I will get the car out next week and have a proper look. Give everything a spray with contact cleaner.

[The Three D Mucketeer]

I think you should speak to Tyre Smoke , he's an expert .

[Jordie Barretts sock]

I would, but since he's in New Zealand and sold me the car, I'm not sure what use that would be? I have a big file of paperwork. I'll look through that.

[sixor8]

On both a Chimaera and my current Griff, this was the immobiliser, which I changed. The ignition switch the other side of the barrel that the key goes into can also cause a current drop, leaving insufficient for the starter solenoid, as well as the crispy old wiring of course.

[Belle427]

Identify the relay output to starter solenoid and you can apply a temporary 12 volt to it, this will prove half the circuit.
The wire on the starter solenoid itself can corrode too so worth checking it.

[Jordie Barretts sock]

I need to give the elecs a good look, that is true.

Car has been a bit neglected.

[Belle427]

Depending on which alarm you have the bypass instructions are around should you need them if it turns out to be that.

[Jordie Barretts sock]

Meta. Been modified so the key opens the boot, etc.

I reckon, although I can't guarantee it being a TVR, it's the hot start mod. Looks quite iffy.

[Belle427]

Some info on it here if it is the one and only hot start kit.
https://www.chimaerapages.com/install-hot-start-ki...

[Jordie Barretts sock]

Thank you!

[PabloGee]

Not sure if you've dug around much on this, but I ended up going the whole hog after discovering a very broken connection on a hot start kit in my footwell.

There's some very useful info from others on here that helped me understand then sort it - you'll see my first post on page 7:
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...

New relay (with fuse), new uprated cables with head shielding. I also bypassed the starter motor circuit on my immobiliser as this was playing up, and have subsequently added a manual version.

No starting issues since.

Happy to talk you through it all if you wish.

[Jordie Barretts sock]

Thanks mate!

To be honest, I parked her back in the garage and haven't given it another thought since.

However, I'm off next week for a couple of weeks so will have a good delve in the footwell.

For a start, there's no fuse in the hot start wiring - I did notice that on Friday! I seem to remember it is supposed to be a 20 amp fuse, but this is mighty close to the draw when starting and some have fitted 25 amp?

[PabloGee]

Yes, I used an inline fuse (cost f-all on ebay), and started with a 20A spade fuse, but it popped on first start up, so put a 25A in and all is well.

The hot start kit is very simple to put together, but as that thread suggests it's just masking a failing immobiliser relay.

I didn't look properly at it, but believe they are around £45, whereas my uprated kit cost nearer £50.
Adding the uprated starter motor feeder cable, along with the ends and a crimp tool was another £50ish

[Jordie Barretts sock]

So you bypassed the immobiliser?

I have a Meta alarm installed, the one thing that has always irked me is the need to disarm the immobiliser if you don't start the car immediately you get in/leave it unlocked for a few minutes.

Does the bypass do away with this?

[PabloGee]

If you were to bypass the whole thing, then yes.

I personally didn't want to do that, and am happy to put up with setting my alarm off when I forget to disarm again at the petrol station...

Just consider insurance implications, and whether you want your car to be really easy to nick...