Electric windows

[BB1961]

Hi all,
I have an electric window problem that has got me baffled.
I bought my 1998 Chimaera 450 with the drivers side motor not working but the car came with a working spare.
I’ve removed the old motor, cleaned up and lubricated the mechanism, checked window moved freely up and down by hand, checked the motor worked with the car wiring, before installing it (12V at terminals), installed the motor and NOTHING. Removed the motor again, connected to car wiring and it works fine. WTF, any suggestions gratefully received.
Cheers

[PabloGee]

Far from an expert - there are certainly some on here, but sounds like the motor isn’t working even with 12V.
It’s a relief you’re getting full voltage, but maybe the motor’s done?
Might be a faff, but could be worth trying the motor for the other door whilst you’re knee deep?

[105.4]

PabloGee said:

Far from an expert - there are certainly some on here, but sounds like the motor isn’t working even with 12V.
It’s a relief you’re getting full voltage, but maybe the motor’s done?
Might be a faff, but could be worth trying the motor for the other door whilst you’re knee deep?

That would be the route that I’d go down. Test and verify via the easiest and most logical route.

[sixor8]

I read that it IS working with 12V, just not when installed.

There is frequently a voltage drop in the wiring to the windows so check for the actual voltage at the motor terminals with the switch pressed.

Back in 2017 (3 x TVRs ago!), I had a Chimaera that curiously would fail to start the down journey when fully up, but would work in both directions at any other point. The tension put into the drive guide when it reached its stop was enough for the motor to not be able to overcome it.

The window's worm drive had been cleaned and grease applied but in the end, I replaced the motor with a used one from a TX1 taxi (passenger side one for the driver's side). I replicated the fault here:

[Belle427]

Id guess you have a voltage drop too, it may be showing 12 volts but as soon as you load the circuit up it will then struggle.
The wiring is a weak point on these, worth inspecting all the connectors in the circuit.

[phillpot]

There is a modification that runs a new (good) feed and earth to the motor and uses existing wiring (going through old switches, connections etc.) to operate relays.

Here's one version of it:
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...

[Loubaruch]

You may find this helpful:

http://www.bertram-hill.com/griffith-windows.html

[BB1961]

Many thanks for the replies received to my initial post. Some of them I’ve seen before others are new to me. I will be investigating all suggestions.
Just to clarify, the motor works perfectly outside of the door, as has been suggested, it may just not be up to it with any sort of load applied.
I’ll let you know how I get on and welcome any other suggestions that may be out there.
Cheers

[Steve_D]

Pull the window switches and swap them over to see if you move the problem to the other side. Or. Those switches suffer with dirty contacts inside however they can be easily dismantled and cleaned. Dirty contacts may pass 12V to be measured on a multimeter but not carry a current sufficient to lift a window.

Steve

[PabloGee]

That's a very good shout, I had forgotten that mine did this, and I just swapped the switches around, it's been working properly ever since.

[M4tt-H]

..also you can apply some silicone spray (or similar) to the window channels where the glass runs - that alone can make a huge difference to how well/whether the windows move.

[MadMark911]

When I bought my car, the drivers window only moved very slowly, almost glacial, so I asked Str8six to check it while it was being serviced….

Turns out that the old wiring was only delivering 6v to the motor in the door, so they replaced the wiring to the motor and hey presto it works perfectly!

[Adrian@]

MadMark911 said:

When I bought my car, the drivers window only moved very slowly, almost glacial, so I asked Str8six to check it while it was being serviced….

Turns out that the old wiring was only delivering 6v to the motor in the door, so they replaced the wiring to the motor and hey presto it works perfectly!

I would agree with this comment 100%, an understanding that the wire (standard car core NOT in any way shape or form a flexible wire) is at best 22 years old and worst 32 years old, I was replacing them on 10 year old cars. I am surprised this is not supplied by any of the specialists as a direct swap. A@

[fieryfred]

I had the same problem. The motor worked fine but not under load. Take it apart & it will be full of gunge.
The water runs down the channel & fills the gear box at the bottom.
An old taxi motor solved the problem.
I have 2 spare if some one wants to play & try to fix them.
Cleaning did not help it looks like the motors have lots their Moyo.

[BB1961]

So, long story short. I tested the spare motor that I got with the car, it was getting more than 12V, turned well but locked up as soon as any load was put on it. So, ordered a new motor and everything now works perfectly. If anything, it’s shown up the the passengers side as being a little slow.
Again, many thanks for all your suggestions.

[M_A]

Hi OP, can I ask where you sourced the new window motor or if you have the original part number, assuming it's not from the main TVR suppliers.

Thinking of changing the motors on mine. I understand Bosch made them for several different cars back in the day. Wondering if another manufacturer makes the part or if yours indeed is a Bosch part. Thanks.

[sixor8]

There are lots of threads on here about the window motors. The Bosch part numbers are about 2/3 of the way down this one:

https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=16...

The one from the front passenger door of a TX1 taxi fits the driver's side apparently.


They're available new for £126 so used may not be worth it:

https://motaclan.com/product-category/tvr/#bb46/em...

Edited by sixor8 on Monday 18th March 07:00

[drcarlos]

I went through several drivers motors from breakers on my Subaru, until I replaced the motor for one from somewhere else on the car and swapped it onto the regulator. It turns out that due to the auto close holding the window closed for a couple of seconds at dead stop it would heat up that pad of the commutator (probably overheated that part of the motor coil too) and damage it over time as it always landed on that pad fully closed. Then there would be burnt debris there (I totally stripped a motor and found it) and eventually cause enough of a volt drop to not have the torque to start moving and the window would stop working. Changing to a motor that never had the one shot function working on it from somewhere else in the car would mean a motor that hadn't suffered any damage.
Incidentally I have the same issue on the engagement mechanism on the power mover on my Caravan as it winds in the roller and holds for a few seconds before stopping the process and then won't disengage with help to start.
Linking back to the TVR situation the slow operation is likely to overheat commutator pads and coils and do the same thing so a motor in a TVR and it reminds me I must strip and clean all mine this summer.

[BB1961]

M_A said:

Hi OP, can I ask where you sourced the new window motor or if you have the original part number, assuming it's not from the main TVR suppliers.

Thinking of changing the motors on mine. I understand Bosch made them for several different cars back in the day. Wondering if another manufacturer makes the part or if yours indeed is a Bosch part. Thanks.

I got it from Italy (I’m in France), at this link:
https://www.autolucana.it/en-us/electric/013082106...
I did a search on the Bosch part number and this came up (for a Mazda if I remember correctly)

[M_A]

Cheers OP. I will opt for the new Bosch one from Italy