Starting issues
Discussion
Hi all, on Sunday the car wouldn't start, although it was fine the day before and battery all good. Eventually RAC got it going (after 2 hours) but their recommendation is a full ignition system refresh, as whilst it started it isn’t running smoothly (sounds like it’s missing intermittently). Went out today and it started first time, but a strong smell of petrol and nearly cut out as I applied throttle, all ok after a few minutes but still running a bit rougher than it was.
It sounds to me like maybe the timing is out and/or there is an injector issue.
I will get it looked at properly at a local garage (not TVR specialist though) but wondered what the experience/thoughts were on here
It sounds to me like maybe the timing is out and/or there is an injector issue.
I will get it looked at properly at a local garage (not TVR specialist though) but wondered what the experience/thoughts were on here
I'm no expert, but there are certainly a number of possibilities.
I would certainly start with connections, checking methodically.
It's worth finding out initially if the problem sits with the ignition system or the fuel supply.
Test for a spark.
Test with 'easy start'
Wiggle connections on all the wiring you can see etc etc
There are plenty of threads on here that will help with all of those.
I also had a failure that the RAC said was the coil, but it was an aftermarket ignition power amp that had failed.
Some find it's as simple as the connections to the fuel pump need a clean up.
I also had problems with the immobiliser on the starter motor circuit, but have fixed that with a couple of steps.
There is rarely a definitive answer, but there's a journey that helps you get to know your car more intimately
I would certainly start with connections, checking methodically.
It's worth finding out initially if the problem sits with the ignition system or the fuel supply.
Test for a spark.
Test with 'easy start'
Wiggle connections on all the wiring you can see etc etc
There are plenty of threads on here that will help with all of those.
I also had a failure that the RAC said was the coil, but it was an aftermarket ignition power amp that had failed.
Some find it's as simple as the connections to the fuel pump need a clean up.
I also had problems with the immobiliser on the starter motor circuit, but have fixed that with a couple of steps.
There is rarely a definitive answer, but there's a journey that helps you get to know your car more intimately
The ignition system is the first place to start if its an unknown, the problem you have though is that some of the spares are not the best quality these days, particularly the cap, rotor and ignition module so tread carefully just swapping parts out.
The extenders are a very common failure point and the leads also get cooked so these are the favourite place to start, a new set of plugs wouldnt hurt really for what they cost.
They overfuel on start up too so try and avoid just firing it up and knocking it off all the time or you can foul plugs pretty quickly.
The extenders are a very common failure point and the leads also get cooked so these are the favourite place to start, a new set of plugs wouldnt hurt really for what they cost.
They overfuel on start up too so try and avoid just firing it up and knocking it off all the time or you can foul plugs pretty quickly.
Belle427 said:
The ignition system is the first place to start if its an unknown, the problem you have though is that some of the spares are not the best quality these days, particularly the cap, rotor and ignition module so tread carefully just swapping parts out.
The extenders are a very common failure point and the leads also get cooked so these are the favourite place to start, a new set of plugs wouldnt hurt really for what they cost.
They overfuel on start up too so try and avoid just firing it up and knocking it off all the time or you can foul plugs pretty quickly.
This. If I start any V8 this time of year I won’t turn it off until it’s warm. The extenders are a very common failure point and the leads also get cooked so these are the favourite place to start, a new set of plugs wouldnt hurt really for what they cost.
They overfuel on start up too so try and avoid just firing it up and knocking it off all the time or you can foul plugs pretty quickly.
A flooded engine is bad news. Washed bores of its oil is a nightmare usually requiring bumping the car or cranking on the starter for often many minutes while the oil slowly re coats the bores and builds compression back up.
It won’t start without good compression.
For these types of issues RoverGauge pc software and cable are well worth getting.
Clever chaps like Blaze away can analyse your data if you ask nicely and this tool can help point you towards the fault.
Did the RAC man find or change or fiddle with anything or indeed find why it wouldn’t start or did he end up cranking engine for ages until it started?
Thanks guys, he changed the coil out for a spare I had but that didn’t help, he changed the king lead but he thought the spark was ok, disconnected the fuel pump in case it was flooded, but I doubt it was as I only tried a few times before giving up. In the end he put jump leads on, connected to the van and cranked until it started, it did start but running very lumpy, Guy across the road (re building a TR4) said it sounds like the timing is out. Any way we will start with plugs and leads and all the rest and see how we go. I assume magnecor leads, Bosch coil, any other recommendations for ignition module, dizzy and rotor arm, if none of that helps I’m guessing it could be injector issues?
I had something that sounds similar. Car started but wouldn’t accelerate in fact would hardly run. Had been working fine got 200 metres from home when it all happened.
After a lot of faffing around I discovered it was a faulty AFM.
You could perhaps try unplugging yours and see if anything changes when you try to start the car !
After a lot of faffing around I discovered it was a faulty AFM.
You could perhaps try unplugging yours and see if anything changes when you try to start the car !
I would question whether the timing is out, unless you changed anything?
In terms of replacement parts darts, you’ll struggle to find the proper brands a bit.
If you’ve still got the spark plug extenders, try removing those first, they are well known to fail and cause misfires/no spark.
The right Bosch coil is rockinghorse sh*t, so you’ll be looking for an equivalent. They are at least cheaper.
Leads, depends what you want to spend. I got a nice set from Mr Retro via eBay, he makes them up to spec, nicer quality, angled boot to allow me to ditch the extenders, then I chose to put heat shields on to protect from the manifold heat.
Dizzy cap and rotor arm, impossible to get original quality Lucas stuff, I just got some Powerspark and I’ll see how they go.
Amplifier, again Lucas make them, many question the quality, but at least not too expensive.
It’s worth checking the leads around those parts too, often the connectors have corroded and will clean up, or the cables have broken down due to heat and age.
That’s tricky to find because sometimes moving the wire will make it connect again inside the sleeve but it will work itself apart through vibration!
Just try to be methodical, otherwise you’ll be throwing money around unnecessarily.
In terms of replacement parts darts, you’ll struggle to find the proper brands a bit.
If you’ve still got the spark plug extenders, try removing those first, they are well known to fail and cause misfires/no spark.
The right Bosch coil is rockinghorse sh*t, so you’ll be looking for an equivalent. They are at least cheaper.
Leads, depends what you want to spend. I got a nice set from Mr Retro via eBay, he makes them up to spec, nicer quality, angled boot to allow me to ditch the extenders, then I chose to put heat shields on to protect from the manifold heat.
Dizzy cap and rotor arm, impossible to get original quality Lucas stuff, I just got some Powerspark and I’ll see how they go.
Amplifier, again Lucas make them, many question the quality, but at least not too expensive.
It’s worth checking the leads around those parts too, often the connectors have corroded and will clean up, or the cables have broken down due to heat and age.
That’s tricky to find because sometimes moving the wire will make it connect again inside the sleeve but it will work itself apart through vibration!
Just try to be methodical, otherwise you’ll be throwing money around unnecessarily.
Good advice there, i used Mr Retro leads too but chose to buy more stuff than i needed and make them myself. If one does fail you can easily make another, they are very straightforward to do once you have the crimp tool and can be kept in the boot for times of need.
Fancy Magnecor leads are just not needed and overrated, American leads such as Accel and Msd are the only ones id consider but are probably overkill.
Fancy Magnecor leads are just not needed and overrated, American leads such as Accel and Msd are the only ones id consider but are probably overkill.
Believed to be genuine old stock so worth having a a good known spare.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133318230946?mkcid=16&a...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133318230946?mkcid=16&a...
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