Non-PAS serpentine belt trajectory

Non-PAS serpentine belt trajectory

Author
Discussion

e635815

Original Poster:

379 posts

200 months

Monday 28th August 2023
quotequote all
Hello all,

I have converted my late Chim 500 from hydraulic to electric PAS.
Now, I want to get rid of the pump and replace the serpentine pulley with a shorter one.
But it seems that I would need a free wheel in pace of the pump to accommodate the water pump rotation direction.
Can someone help me with the setup of said car without PAS? If someone could take a picture of the engine setup?
Or, if the same conversion has been done already, how did you manage with the removal of the pump?
Thanks and regards
Philippe

Belle427

10,219 posts

245 months

Monday 28th August 2023
quotequote all
Shorter belt maybe, I know some have done it.
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...

e635815

Original Poster:

379 posts

200 months

Monday 28th August 2023
quotequote all
Thanks for the reply but that doesn't really sound like a perfect solution to me. The contact between the water pump pulley and the belt is really minimal.
I fear that it may slip and won't drive the water pump at all.
Any other experience from the community?
Thanks

Belle427

10,219 posts

245 months

Monday 28th August 2023
quotequote all
Non pas idler probably your best bet then, not sure if they are readily available though.
Some say they are just a hollowed out pump.

PabloGee

543 posts

32 months

Wednesday 30th August 2023
quotequote all
Not experienced this at all, but if reworking to replicate non PAS cars doesn’t work, I’d definitely consider looking at hollowing out the pump and leaving a freely spinning shell in there.
If you can do this with a scrapyard pump, then you’d potentially preserve a reversible mod.

I’d be interested to know how the electric PAS is though, and what it cost/involved to install it (rather than sitting through old and possibly out of date posts on the topic)

Tobs

237 posts

234 months

Thursday 31st August 2023
quotequote all
JE Engineering alternator bracket - allows the auto tensioner to be removed too and no need for the power steering pump idler:

https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...

Still seems available listed on this page:- (Alternator bracket and tensioner. £78.00)

https://johnealesroverv8.co.uk/product/baffled-sum...

Sardonicus

19,168 posts

233 months

Friday 1st September 2023
quotequote all
Ignore the incorrectly fitted tensioner bracket (not my engine) but with a shorter belt to give water-pump pulley more wrap around this is what your after , this is fitted with the John Eales kit and I can vouch for these do exactly what they are supposed to do ....... Tensioner fitting should look like this...

Edited by Sardonicus on Friday 1st September 12:55

e635815

Original Poster:

379 posts

200 months

Thursday 14th September 2023
quotequote all
PabloGee said:
Not experienced this at all, but if reworking to replicate non PAS cars doesn’t work, I’d definitely consider looking at hollowing out the pump and leaving a freely spinning shell in there.
If you can do this with a scrapyard pump, then you’d potentially preserve a reversible mod.

I’d be interested to know how the electric PAS is though, and what it cost/involved to install it (rather than sitting through old and possibly out of date posts on the topic)
I haven't done a really neat installation but it works without problems.
Bought a saxo/106 electric pump for 80€ and asked a friend of mine to design a bracket to fit it on the transvers bar in front of the exhaust.
The pump is slightly angled towards the radiator but sits upright.
You won't believe how high an item could be without touching the underside of the bonnet.
Took the power from the 100 amp and the signal from the key lock.
I put a relay with a fuse (80 A rated) and located the electronics beside the radiator, close to the front wing.
The most difficult part is to connect the large pump wires with equally large wires bringing the power. No quick connector exists.
It involves heavy soldering.

Will try and take pictures tonight.
My next job will be to put a temporization to the relay. You don't need power steering when starting the car or putting accessories on for opening the trunk.
Philippe


Sardonicus

19,168 posts

233 months

Thursday 14th September 2023
quotequote all
e635815 said:
PabloGee said:
Not experienced this at all, but if reworking to replicate non PAS cars doesn’t work, I’d definitely consider looking at hollowing out the pump and leaving a freely spinning shell in there.
If you can do this with a scrapyard pump, then you’d potentially preserve a reversible mod.

I’d be interested to know how the electric PAS is though, and what it cost/involved to install it (rather than sitting through old and possibly out of date posts on the topic)
I haven't done a really neat installation but it works without problems.
Bought a saxo/106 electric pump for 80€ and asked a friend of mine to design a bracket to fit it on the transvers bar in front of the exhaust.
The pump is slightly angled towards the radiator but sits upright.
You won't believe how high an item could be without touching the underside of the bonnet.
Took the power from the 100 amp and the signal from the key lock.
I put a relay with a fuse (80 A rated) and located the electronics beside the radiator, close to the front wing.
The most difficult part is to connect the large pump wires with equally large wires bringing the power. No quick connector exists.
It involves heavy soldering.

Will try and take pictures tonight.
My next job will be to put a temporization to the relay. You don't need power steering when starting the car or putting accessories on for opening the trunk.
Philippe
Take a 12+ from the fuel pump relay output to fuel pump live supply to your PAS pump wake up/activation wire with a 3amp fuse .... sorted