Restoration thread, I'm next
Discussion
I popped in to a specialist last month for an MOT and asked for an honest assessment whilst the car was in the air. I've had servicing and MOT carried out by my local garage for a while now and thought it was time to get a warts and all opinion. Mine is a 1994 4.0 which I've owned for all but two of its years.
The great news, it did not fail the MOT, mainly because the list of advisories made it more sensible to hold off.
The choices were fix the advisories which would involve a body lift, or do a full chassis refurb. One being twice the price of the other. And so it is, early November it will go in for a full chassis refurb to include new fuel and brake lines, bushes, new shocks and a Canems install.
I'll post pictures when I get them.
The great news, it did not fail the MOT, mainly because the list of advisories made it more sensible to hold off.
The choices were fix the advisories which would involve a body lift, or do a full chassis refurb. One being twice the price of the other. And so it is, early November it will go in for a full chassis refurb to include new fuel and brake lines, bushes, new shocks and a Canems install.
I'll post pictures when I get them.
Good luck! I am currently doing the same to mine albeit DIY and have gone megasquirt instead.
I have a couple of tips while the body is off:
- See if you can get the wishbones shotblasted and painted with the chassis if you are doing all the bushes.
- Replace all fuel and brake lines (fairly obviously).
- Replace your battery cables with a larger gauge (50mm2).
- Replace all the heatshield material.
I have a couple of tips while the body is off:
- See if you can get the wishbones shotblasted and painted with the chassis if you are doing all the bushes.
- Replace all fuel and brake lines (fairly obviously).
- Replace your battery cables with a larger gauge (50mm2).
- Replace all the heatshield material.
Thought I'd capture my musings here and see if they make sense.
The plan is for a body off chassis restoration. Once the body is lifted we will make a decision on repair or replace for the chassis.
I want new shocks as the existing are original. Going for Nitrons. Do I start looking for used and get refurbed or just go new?
The battery is in the boot but in a massive box. I think it wants to be back in the footwell or behind the driver. Upgrade of cables whilst this happens.
Fuse box is almost certainly moving. Do I have the heater pipes replaced whilst someone has their head down there.
I'm having ACT pipes under the bonnet as it looks a mess under there.
I want to change the ECU and have Canems instal in mind. Are they all much of a muchness?
Whilst the body is off and the engine is being looked at shall I have the precats removed? Not really interested in more noise but would like to reduce heat.
What am I missing?
The plan is for a body off chassis restoration. Once the body is lifted we will make a decision on repair or replace for the chassis.
I want new shocks as the existing are original. Going for Nitrons. Do I start looking for used and get refurbed or just go new?
The battery is in the boot but in a massive box. I think it wants to be back in the footwell or behind the driver. Upgrade of cables whilst this happens.
Fuse box is almost certainly moving. Do I have the heater pipes replaced whilst someone has their head down there.
I'm having ACT pipes under the bonnet as it looks a mess under there.
I want to change the ECU and have Canems instal in mind. Are they all much of a muchness?
Whilst the body is off and the engine is being looked at shall I have the precats removed? Not really interested in more noise but would like to reduce heat.
What am I missing?
Put battery back in passenger footwell is a good balancing tool. Reduce the size of battery and make smaller battery box. There should be two holes in the floor to take retaining bolts so re use those.
All I know is if I had another inch I’d be in porn so creating say 2-3 inches extra leg room might be spot on
Rarely is a chassis so bad it needs completely replacing so keep an open mind there.
Updated ecu tends to be done as local as possible or because you want specific people installing and just importantly mapping it.
I chose Powers MBE simply because the overall package I liked and Jay is a known guru on these cars when it comes to mapping and install.
They happen to be local to me which I thought was important but actually once it’s all done and mapped it rarely needs to go back.
Wiring needs to be extended obviously to reach fuse box if placed behind passenger seat.
When seeing this arrangement and the pile of wires that have to be extended then run usually along the transmission tunnel and in this case each tracked and clipped to fibre glass tunnel individually which is great but I just didn’t like how long the wiring to fuse box now becomes for some reason. The heat along that part of the car is pretty severe at times.
I can’t actually see any benefit.
I’m not sure about Canems but MBE wiring completely removes all the rats nest of wiring and relays that dangle in footwell so just a couple of battery cables left so keep that in mind.
Heater pipes, not a bad idea but I think it’s no harder to replace them at a later date when car is assembled so not essential.
All I know is if I had another inch I’d be in porn so creating say 2-3 inches extra leg room might be spot on
Rarely is a chassis so bad it needs completely replacing so keep an open mind there.
Updated ecu tends to be done as local as possible or because you want specific people installing and just importantly mapping it.
I chose Powers MBE simply because the overall package I liked and Jay is a known guru on these cars when it comes to mapping and install.
They happen to be local to me which I thought was important but actually once it’s all done and mapped it rarely needs to go back.
Wiring needs to be extended obviously to reach fuse box if placed behind passenger seat.
When seeing this arrangement and the pile of wires that have to be extended then run usually along the transmission tunnel and in this case each tracked and clipped to fibre glass tunnel individually which is great but I just didn’t like how long the wiring to fuse box now becomes for some reason. The heat along that part of the car is pretty severe at times.
I can’t actually see any benefit.
I’m not sure about Canems but MBE wiring completely removes all the rats nest of wiring and relays that dangle in footwell so just a couple of battery cables left so keep that in mind.
Heater pipes, not a bad idea but I think it’s no harder to replace them at a later date when car is assembled so not essential.
As you will be removing engine then yes it’s easy to remove pre cats at this stage.
I’ve ordered some Dinitrol 447 rattle cans which is a rubberised stone chip paint to add to my newly epoxy mastic painted outriggers for extra stone chip protection.
Heat proof tape is a good addition along top chassis rails by engine manifolds as they get very hot and corrode easily.
I’ve ordered some Dinitrol 447 rattle cans which is a rubberised stone chip paint to add to my newly epoxy mastic painted outriggers for extra stone chip protection.
Heat proof tape is a good addition along top chassis rails by engine manifolds as they get very hot and corrode easily.
MuffDaddy said:
When you say completely removes, do you mean reduces? The fuse box still exists?
If I go with Canems it will be going to Lloyds
With MBE it’s reduced and my ecu is positioned on the shelf behind the lower dash which is accessed through the Glove pouch above passengers knees. If I go with Canems it will be going to Lloyds
Yes the fusebox is still in original position.
Edited by Classic Chim on Tuesday 8th September 21:09
Here's my thoughts on what you said:
- If you go for Nitrons bear in mind they are quite a bit stiffer than the standard shocks.
-Yes replace the heater pipes, but bear in mind its horrible to get them back in place!
-If you change the ECU you will want a wideband O2 sensor and controller so budget for this. I would strongly recommend a new loom also, I personally went for Megasquirt from ExtraEFI. Beware if you do this DIY it is not a small job.
-Take the opportunity to split the engine and gearbox while you have easy access, check the condition of the clutch components and replace anything that's necessary
-Replacing shift washers/bushings on the gearbox is also a good idea as it's easy access
-You'll want to replace the rear diff mount bush.
-For the ACT pipes if you change the ECU the MAF will likely be removed, so those might not fit.
That's all I can think of for now good luck!
- If you go for Nitrons bear in mind they are quite a bit stiffer than the standard shocks.
-Yes replace the heater pipes, but bear in mind its horrible to get them back in place!
-If you change the ECU you will want a wideband O2 sensor and controller so budget for this. I would strongly recommend a new loom also, I personally went for Megasquirt from ExtraEFI. Beware if you do this DIY it is not a small job.
-Take the opportunity to split the engine and gearbox while you have easy access, check the condition of the clutch components and replace anything that's necessary
-Replacing shift washers/bushings on the gearbox is also a good idea as it's easy access
-You'll want to replace the rear diff mount bush.
-For the ACT pipes if you change the ECU the MAF will likely be removed, so those might not fit.
That's all I can think of for now good luck!
A good choice. I was very pleased with the install on my car and would definitely recommend Lloyd’s. Whilst fitting the ecu they created a completely new engine bay wiring loom and removed most of the wiring that resided on top of the battery. Canems transformed the pleasure of driving the car.
Edited by Hedgehopper on Tuesday 8th September 22:21
There are several posters to this forum that have moved the fuse-box to behind the seat without extending lots of wiring, apparently many looms are long enough to reach
The thing is, there are improvements that can be made if moving the fuse-box
Example
Side lights are supplied by one fuse, they should be fused left and right
Even worse though, take a look at this
As can be seen, the supply comes from the side/tail switch, across the dash and along the transmission tunnel to the re-located fuse-box
The fused sidelights supply then doubles back along the tunnel all the way to the front lights
Much worse though, the fused tail lights supply doubles back along the tunnel, routes across the dash and then back on itself along one side of the car all the way to the tail lights
Wacky car looms
The job needs a little more thought put into it to get a decent result
Logic, it's all about logic
Yes, experience helps but.......
The thing is, there are improvements that can be made if moving the fuse-box
Example
Side lights are supplied by one fuse, they should be fused left and right
Even worse though, take a look at this
As can be seen, the supply comes from the side/tail switch, across the dash and along the transmission tunnel to the re-located fuse-box
The fused sidelights supply then doubles back along the tunnel all the way to the front lights
Much worse though, the fused tail lights supply doubles back along the tunnel, routes across the dash and then back on itself along one side of the car all the way to the tail lights
Wacky car looms
The job needs a little more thought put into it to get a decent result
Logic, it's all about logic
Yes, experience helps but.......
I had a lift and chassis refurb done a couple of years (or three) ago. It's holding up pretty well, with the exception of the tubes sitting just under the exhaust manifolds where the paint is bubbling and turning brown due to the heat.
If I had to do it again, I'd make sure that the top tubes were wrapped in some way with heat resistant 'stuff'.
I also have a Powers MBE ECU fitted. As others have said, apart from just running better than it did with the Lucas 14CUX, the wiring in the engine bay and back to the ECU is replaced. I don't know about yours, but the twenty year old wiring on my original loom was in a pretty shabby state. I'd be thinking about replacing that part of the loom as part of a rebuild, irrespective of the make of ECU that you decide on.
If I had to do it again, I'd make sure that the top tubes were wrapped in some way with heat resistant 'stuff'.
I also have a Powers MBE ECU fitted. As others have said, apart from just running better than it did with the Lucas 14CUX, the wiring in the engine bay and back to the ECU is replaced. I don't know about yours, but the twenty year old wiring on my original loom was in a pretty shabby state. I'd be thinking about replacing that part of the loom as part of a rebuild, irrespective of the make of ECU that you decide on.
Small update. The body is off the chassis and the reports are good. Minimal welding required. However, it is still going through the full chassis refurb process because it's the right thing to do. This hopefully means money in the budget for some bits of bling. Pictures should start arriving in the New Year.
Edited by MuffDaddy on Friday 18th December 19:06
MuffDaddy said:
Small update. The body is off the chassis and the reports are good. Minimal welding required. However, it is still going through the full chassis refurb process because it's the right thing to do. This hopefully means money in the budget for some bits of bling. Pictures should start arriving in the New Year.
Great stuff Edited by MuffDaddy on Friday 18th December 19:06
Classic Chim said:
MuffDaddy said:
Small update. The body is off the chassis and the reports are good. Minimal welding required. However, it is still going through the full chassis refurb process because it's the right thing to do. This hopefully means money in the budget for some bits of bling. Pictures should start arriving in the New Year.
Great stuff Edited by MuffDaddy on Friday 18th December 19:06
Hedgehopper said:
A good choice. I was very pleased with the install on my car and would definitely recommend Lloyd’s. Whilst fitting the ecu they created a completely new engine bay wiring loom and removed most of the wiring that resided on top of the battery. Canems transformed the pleasure of driving the car.
Do you have any pictures of the new wiring. Especially in the footwell?Edited by Hedgehopper on Tuesday 8th September 22:21
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