removing brake pads on Chimp
Discussion
Any tips on removing pads from my Chimp.
Having done a track day the brakes are not quite what they have been in the past. The theory is that this is due to glazing of the pads. I would like to remove the pads to check them and maybe un-glaze them. Steve Heaths'' book doesn''t give any help here but suggests reading the Haynes Manual for a Ford V6 (Cosworth). I have this book now and it makes a great statement about just removing the hand brake cable. Needless to say it doesn''t look quite that simple on the Chimp.
Any advice or help very welcom at this stage.
Cheers
Phil
Pads glazing is normally more of a problem with hard compound pads that have not been brought up to temperature. More likely you have overheated the fluid and/or pads, a common problem on track days.
The drill for replacing pads has been described in detail here and on the TVRCC discussion list at YahooGroups so I won't repeat it all, just the key points: It is easy. Buy a piston wind-back tool to wind the rear handbrake adjuster back (£10 well spent). If you're keeping the discs you can separate the bridge assembly from the sliders and leave the fixed frame on the upright, otherwise you have to remove the whole caliper. Don't let the brake reservoir overflow when you are pushing the piston back. Bleed the brakes afterwards, using fresh DOT 5.1 fluid. Coppaslip between the back of the pads and the piston will reduce brake squeal. Finally and most important PUMP THE BRAKE PEDAL a few times before you drive off, or the first time you try to use them nothing will happen! 
)
Hope this helps,
Peter Humphries (and a green V8S)
)
Hope this helps,
Peter Humphries (and a green V8S)
quote:
Any tips on removing pads from my Chimp. Having done a track day the brakes are not quite what they have been in the past. The theory is that this is due to glazing of the pads. I would like to remove the pads to check them and maybe un-glaze them. Steve Heaths'' book doesn''t give any help here but suggests reading the Haynes Manual for a Ford V6 (Cosworth). I have this book now and it makes a great statement about just removing the hand brake cable. Needless to say it doesn''t look quite that simple on the Chimp. Any advice or help very welcom at this stage. Cheers Phil
quote:Peter, can you point me at the addresses where this process is detailed please. I have taken a look around and haven't found much of use so far. You are probably right about the fluid as opposed to the pads glazing over, but it would still be nice to know how to do the work all the same. cheers Phil
The drill for replacing pads has been described in detail here and on the TVRCC discussion list at YahooGroups so
>Take cap off of brake fluid reservoir
>Remove wheel
>look at caliper, you will see a centre section that contains the piston (it's the bit that the brake hose & the handbrake cable attach to) this is held on to the carrier (my phrase ) by 2 bolts, the "carrier" is the bit that is fixed to the suspension upright.
>Undo the top bolt (13mm) that attaches the centre section whilst holding the nut in front of it (15mm).
>Rotate the caliper rewards - you now have access to the pads.
>Pull pads out
>Fit wind back tool into calpier, this has a section that fits into slots in the piston & a bit that wedges against the outer part of the caliper. You now wind the piston back in.
>fit new pads with a smear of copaslip grease on the back of them (the side that doesn't touch the disc)
>Refit everything, replacing any bolts that were removed with new ones.
Not to be rude, but are you sure that you are OK with this? Any f**kups could have disastorous results.
Ian.
Ian, thanks for this.
Yes I am OK with this kind of work. I have worked on the brakes of quite a few cars in my time (mainly French I admit) but not come across this set up before. I was just trying to get the full and clear picture before I start any work (as you say, this is not something I want to F*** up), so was looking for advice from people who have carried out this work before.
I was more concerned that the Haynes book (Sierra V6) implied the need to remove the hand brake connnection before starting (if i recall correctly). This isn't something you mentioned above .
Also, as peter pointed out, a more likely possibility is that the fluid in the caliper has thinned. Presumably I would be better off bleeding this out of the caliper before pushing the piston back in so that the thinner fluid doesn't get mixed back into the rest of the fluid.
Cheers
Phil
Guys - do these piston wind back tools such as the SK one from Halfords work on any rear pistons? I need to change the rear pads on my A6 commutemobile(new shape) and hate paying the dealer for any more than the stamp in the book (OK, I let them do the cambelt too).
I've changed tons of front pads and done lots of rear drums, but not touched rear calipers before.
Of course, the Chimaera pads will need doing soon too - they were last done about 2 years ago.
T/.
Not all rear calipers need them at all, and I don't know whether non-Ford parts that need them would need one with the same thread. But it'll be better than nothing. Worst that can happen is you can't wind it back and have to leave the old pads in for a little longer.
Peter Humphries (and a green V8S)
quote:
Guys - do these piston wind back tools such as the SK one from Halfords work on any rear pistons? I need to change the rear pads on my A6 commutemobile(new shape) and hate paying the dealer for any more than the stamp in the book (OK, I let them do the cambelt too). I've changed tons of front pads and done lots of rear drums, but not touched rear calipers before. Of course, the Chimaera pads will need doing soon too - they were last done about 2 years ago. T/.
Thanks for the advice on this topic guys.
All done now and working better. The process is indeed quite simple - once you know how. It was just different from what I was used to.
Replaced rear pads as the inside pads had a crack down the surface (probably not a good thing), though it didn't go very deep.
Bled all calipers to remove any thinned fluid and air that might be there.
Also cleared out the groves on my front disks as they were full of dust.
Brakes feel pretty good now, but still need to bed in a bit.
Phil
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