Pete's 94 Chimaera Project
Discussion
I've had a go at sorting out the dash top. I bought some flexible leather filler from furniture clinic. First of all I rubbed down the areas that needed repair with some 1500 grit sand paper and then I cleaned the areas with some alcohol cleaner. The filler looked a bit like PVA glue and I applied it with a spatula once it was dried I rubbed it down to make it smooth.
This is part way through
I needed to get some colourant to recolour the repaired areas but the colour match wasn't great between the dash top and the original trim.
I managed to find a piece about an inch square that I could cut off the bottom of the tunnel top trim and sent that to furniture clinic for colour matching. This weekend I had a go at recolouring the dash top.
It looks almost black in the photos but it is blue. Here it is in the daylight with the tunnel top cover, it's not a perfect match but it's pretty close.
I applied the colourant with a sponge, they say to dab it on but it looked like it was putting loads of air bubbles in it so I tried small circles and when the first coat dried it was all patchy. It then did as the guidance said and dabbed it and when it dried all the air bubbled disappeared. I'm pretty happy with the result, definitely passable. There are still some pressure indents where it had been placed on top of something at the breakers but I'm hoping these will disappear over time.
This is part way through
I needed to get some colourant to recolour the repaired areas but the colour match wasn't great between the dash top and the original trim.
I managed to find a piece about an inch square that I could cut off the bottom of the tunnel top trim and sent that to furniture clinic for colour matching. This weekend I had a go at recolouring the dash top.
It looks almost black in the photos but it is blue. Here it is in the daylight with the tunnel top cover, it's not a perfect match but it's pretty close.
I applied the colourant with a sponge, they say to dab it on but it looked like it was putting loads of air bubbles in it so I tried small circles and when the first coat dried it was all patchy. It then did as the guidance said and dabbed it and when it dried all the air bubbled disappeared. I'm pretty happy with the result, definitely passable. There are still some pressure indents where it had been placed on top of something at the breakers but I'm hoping these will disappear over time.
I haven't updated this thread for a while, work has continued but I was waiting until I had something worth posting.
I decided to tackle the change of coolant hoses, more as a precaution than anything. Had a bit of fun getting a few of the hoses off but got there in the end. It was a bit mucky under the radiator so I decided to whip that out and give it a clean up at the same time.
A quick clean up had it looking like this
The rad was actually in very good shape. I just got some new rubbers for the locating pins before I refitted it.
I decided I'd remove the metal heater pipes as well whilst the system was drained so they could be cleaned up and painted and I'll fit new jubilee clips at the same time. It looks worse than it is, I think some of it is spray glue from where the carpets were fitted.
I'm reusing the original metal pipes in the engine bay too, they were a bit pitted but cleaned up ok and can always be upgraded at a later stage.
Part way through attacking them with a wire wheel
A few coats of paint and ready to be refitted
The fitting of the silicone hoses wasn't quite as straight forward as I'd hoped. The notes did say trimming of some of the hoses may be required but some were slightly different shapes to the originals. Lots of trial fitting and trimming!
These are all the offcuts that were left
Got there in the end though and all now fitted
The rear discs and pads have now been replaced, the braided hoses have been done since too.
Moving to the inside of the car. One of the guides for the door release cables was snapped off when I bought the car, fortunately it was in a box of bits I got with the car.
I glassed it back in to place and then fitted the door release knob and new cables, I replaced the inner cables at the same time.
Next I decided it was time to remove the lower dash. Hopefully this is the most stripped the interior will look!
I've cleaned up and recoloured the replacement, which is now ready to fit, the worst bit to recolour was the stretchy pocket.
During
Afterwards
I've also fitted new hinge bushes to the doors in preparation for fitting and now have a carpet set for the car. The plan is to fit the dash, seatbelts, seats, doors and build the doors back up and then take it for an MOT. I am going to take it to someone to do the carpet fitting and it will be easier if I can drive it there. I'm trying to keep some momentum going at the moment and hoping to have it roadworthy soon.
I decided to tackle the change of coolant hoses, more as a precaution than anything. Had a bit of fun getting a few of the hoses off but got there in the end. It was a bit mucky under the radiator so I decided to whip that out and give it a clean up at the same time.
A quick clean up had it looking like this
The rad was actually in very good shape. I just got some new rubbers for the locating pins before I refitted it.
I decided I'd remove the metal heater pipes as well whilst the system was drained so they could be cleaned up and painted and I'll fit new jubilee clips at the same time. It looks worse than it is, I think some of it is spray glue from where the carpets were fitted.
I'm reusing the original metal pipes in the engine bay too, they were a bit pitted but cleaned up ok and can always be upgraded at a later stage.
Part way through attacking them with a wire wheel
A few coats of paint and ready to be refitted
The fitting of the silicone hoses wasn't quite as straight forward as I'd hoped. The notes did say trimming of some of the hoses may be required but some were slightly different shapes to the originals. Lots of trial fitting and trimming!
These are all the offcuts that were left
Got there in the end though and all now fitted
The rear discs and pads have now been replaced, the braided hoses have been done since too.
Moving to the inside of the car. One of the guides for the door release cables was snapped off when I bought the car, fortunately it was in a box of bits I got with the car.
I glassed it back in to place and then fitted the door release knob and new cables, I replaced the inner cables at the same time.
Next I decided it was time to remove the lower dash. Hopefully this is the most stripped the interior will look!
I've cleaned up and recoloured the replacement, which is now ready to fit, the worst bit to recolour was the stretchy pocket.
During
Afterwards
I've also fitted new hinge bushes to the doors in preparation for fitting and now have a carpet set for the car. The plan is to fit the dash, seatbelts, seats, doors and build the doors back up and then take it for an MOT. I am going to take it to someone to do the carpet fitting and it will be easier if I can drive it there. I'm trying to keep some momentum going at the moment and hoping to have it roadworthy soon.
Edited by pmc_3 on Thursday 23 May 13:19
Thanks for all the positive comments!
This was the piece I replaced https://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/err4763-hose-to-...
I think this is the long one from the flame trap https://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/err4762-hose-fro...
PabloGee said:
Where did you get the silicone hoses from?
I'm looking to replace the breather hose around the rocker covers and plenum, and can only find ACT.
Not a problem, feels like there's a price premium on them, just wondered if there are others out there.
I used the ACT silicone hoses for the cooling system. One of my breather hoses was perished, I replaced the perished bit with a new standard replacement from Craddocks. I'm looking to replace the breather hose around the rocker covers and plenum, and can only find ACT.
Not a problem, feels like there's a price premium on them, just wondered if there are others out there.
This was the piece I replaced https://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/err4763-hose-to-...
I think this is the long one from the flame trap https://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/err4762-hose-fro...
Loubaruch said:
Well done but I am surprised that you are not fitting the carpets yourself after all the other stuff you have tackled it will be a breeze!
It's more of a time thing than anything, everything I've looked at says it takes a couple of days and most of the work I'm doing is with the odd couple of hours here and there.Edited by pmc_3 on Friday 31st May 09:06
That first link is the bit that I replaced recently with a piece from Rimmer Bros, and it's splitting all over.
I might just give this one a go, for the cost...
Carpets - have you seen the video on Youtube of the Tools n Track guys doing Chim carpets?
They didn't replace the section across the back with the speakers, as he was just doing black for black carpets and that section was ok in his car, but it was more of an afternoon than a couple of days.
I just did mine with Fabric Paint, from Fabricare, but you're in a different position with no carpets in the car.
As a DIY project, I priced up to around £1k for carpets, optional underlay/heat/sound shielding, glue.
For someone else to do it, no idea.
I might just give this one a go, for the cost...
Carpets - have you seen the video on Youtube of the Tools n Track guys doing Chim carpets?
They didn't replace the section across the back with the speakers, as he was just doing black for black carpets and that section was ok in his car, but it was more of an afternoon than a couple of days.
I just did mine with Fabric Paint, from Fabricare, but you're in a different position with no carpets in the car.
As a DIY project, I priced up to around £1k for carpets, optional underlay/heat/sound shielding, glue.
For someone else to do it, no idea.
PabloGee said:
That first link is the bit that I replaced recently with a piece from Rimmer Bros, and it's splitting all over.
I might just give this one a go, for the cost...
Carpets - have you seen the video on Youtube of the Tools n Track guys doing Chim carpets?
They didn't replace the section across the back with the speakers, as he was just doing black for black carpets and that section was ok in his car, but it was more of an afternoon than a couple of days.
I just did mine with Fabric Paint, from Fabricare, but you're in a different position with no carpets in the car.
As a DIY project, I priced up to around £1k for carpets, optional underlay/heat/sound shielding, glue.
For someone else to do it, no idea.
The quality of most rubber products isn't good these days.I might just give this one a go, for the cost...
Carpets - have you seen the video on Youtube of the Tools n Track guys doing Chim carpets?
They didn't replace the section across the back with the speakers, as he was just doing black for black carpets and that section was ok in his car, but it was more of an afternoon than a couple of days.
I just did mine with Fabric Paint, from Fabricare, but you're in a different position with no carpets in the car.
As a DIY project, I priced up to around £1k for carpets, optional underlay/heat/sound shielding, glue.
For someone else to do it, no idea.
I've already got the carpet set, I bought one from Central TVR. Yeah, I've seen Tommy's videos it doesn't look too hard but I've got nothing for reference. I might end up having a go, I'm just keen to actually use the car this year.
This weekend I cleaned up the as much of the old silicone around where the heater fan fits and drilled out the holes slightly so it could be refitted with screws rather than rivets.
Screwed in place
Sealed with silicone. It's not pretty but it wasn't originally and it will be hidden.
I also refitted the heater pipes with new hoses and jubilee clips. The only cooling system hoses that are original now are the heater ones that run from the rear of the engine.
I'm going to refill the cooling system next and then provided there are no leaks the fuse box and battery can go back in place.
Screwed in place
Sealed with silicone. It's not pretty but it wasn't originally and it will be hidden.
I also refitted the heater pipes with new hoses and jubilee clips. The only cooling system hoses that are original now are the heater ones that run from the rear of the engine.
I'm going to refill the cooling system next and then provided there are no leaks the fuse box and battery can go back in place.
pmc_3 said:
The quality of most rubber products isn't good these days.
I've already got the carpet set, I bought one from Central TVR. Yeah, I've seen Tommy's videos it doesn't look too hard but I've got nothing for reference. I might end up having a go, I'm just keen to actually use the car this year.
Yes, it seems the rubber parts are pants these days. I've already got the carpet set, I bought one from Central TVR. Yeah, I've seen Tommy's videos it doesn't look too hard but I've got nothing for reference. I might end up having a go, I'm just keen to actually use the car this year.
I fitted the Craddocks one yesterday, so like you, will see how it lasts.
Did your Central carpets come with any instructions?
Your car will be tip top when done - the one thing I’d love to do in mine is either replace the wiring loom (and probably new injectors), or replace the ECU and loom and ditch the mechanical ignition system.
Not sure if you plan to do any of that (not cheap), but whilst the car is apart…
PabloGee said:
Yes, it seems the rubber parts are pants these days.
I fitted the Craddocks one yesterday, so like you, will see how it lasts.
Did your Central carpets come with any instructions?
Your car will be tip top when done - the one thing I’d love to do in mine is either replace the wiring loom (and probably new injectors), or replace the ECU and loom and ditch the mechanical ignition system.
Not sure if you plan to do any of that (not cheap), but whilst the car is apart…
The carpets just arrived in a box, no instructions.I fitted the Craddocks one yesterday, so like you, will see how it lasts.
Did your Central carpets come with any instructions?
Your car will be tip top when done - the one thing I’d love to do in mine is either replace the wiring loom (and probably new injectors), or replace the ECU and loom and ditch the mechanical ignition system.
Not sure if you plan to do any of that (not cheap), but whilst the car is apart…
Long term I'd like to change to aftermarket engine management but plenty of other things to do first, I'm not sure if it's had a cam and it's on 64k so that may be something it needs doing first. I'm not entirely sure how I can tell without it being stripped down, providing it drives ok I may get it on a rolling road to see how healthy the numbers are.
I think that Tools N Track vid is the best I've seen. I bet it's not that hard to work out once you get going...
Can't speak with authority on the cam, though I have seen far too many examples of flattened lobes to pass it up as a thing to do.
My car was done by the previous owner, new cam and timing gear in the engine, it was at 80k miles, but I clearly didn't get the comparison.
Can't speak with authority on the cam, though I have seen far too many examples of flattened lobes to pass it up as a thing to do.
My car was done by the previous owner, new cam and timing gear in the engine, it was at 80k miles, but I clearly didn't get the comparison.
There's a chap doing the carpets in his Chim at the moment, he's been sharing a bit of progress on Facebook.
It seems to be in a private chat at the moment, but if you're on there I might be able to invite you in.
Here's the link to the group, the chat is called 'replacing carpets in a chim'
https://m.me/ch/AbZo6kHz6Xr_doar/
let me know if it's of interest, and I can try to put you in touch with the guy doing it via FB
It seems to be in a private chat at the moment, but if you're on there I might be able to invite you in.
Here's the link to the group, the chat is called 'replacing carpets in a chim'
https://m.me/ch/AbZo6kHz6Xr_doar/
let me know if it's of interest, and I can try to put you in touch with the guy doing it via FB
There is no written documentation that I’m aware of you can refer to re carpets.
Ordinarily whoever removes the old carpets marks them up so you can then match them with your new sections.
Also you need to replace them in an order. Some carpet sections need to go down before others.
Maybe the carpet makers can at least send a guide as to which piece goes where and or a friendly Tvr bodywork interior restorer can give you a list of what goes where and in what order it should be glued down.
Ordinarily whoever removes the old carpets marks them up so you can then match them with your new sections.
Also you need to replace them in an order. Some carpet sections need to go down before others.
Maybe the carpet makers can at least send a guide as to which piece goes where and or a friendly Tvr bodywork interior restorer can give you a list of what goes where and in what order it should be glued down.
I set myself a target of making it to the Baston Car show on the 30th June, a big local show that some friends and colleagues were going to. It was an ambitious target but I cracked on to try and make it.
Lower dash, air vents, switch panel (after I epoxy glued the brackets to the rear of it), interior mirror and sunvisors reinstalled. I fitted some LED bulbs to the gauges before refitting those gauge panel.
A member of one of the facebook owners group donated a decent condition rear badge to the project, that was installed when I had a few minutes along with new wiper blades and front number plate.
I trial fitted one of the doors and it lined up pretty well. When I fitted the striker it didn’t seem to catch the latch all that well and was a bit notchy. After a while messing about trying to get it lined up I thought I’d come back to that.
When I went to fit the passenger door I thought I better put the loom in first. When I went to fit it I realised the grommets were missing so I had to order some of those in a hurry. They were a pain to fit to the wiring as the plugs are quite chunky and the hole was small, I didn’t want to cut them but didn’t want to have to de-pin the connectors. I managed with a couple of pairs of long nose pliers to stretch the hole enough to feed the plugs through one at a time. You can see here the size of the plugs and the size of the hole.
I had a day off and got the other door and the mirrors fitted. When I went to fit the striker from the box of bits to the drivers door I noticed that one had a shim, I thought I bet that was on the passenger side. I fitted it without the shim and the drivers door shut fine so I put the shim on the passenger one and that resolved the issue and the door then closed and popped open nicely. I started building the doors up with the runners and window motors.
Tunnel top installed and original radio fitted.
The MOT was booked for the 25th June. The only things I was a bit unsure of were the emissions and the handbrake. It passed on the emissions but failed on the handbrake with o/s rear recording no effort. No advisories so although a fail not a bad one considering the last MOT was in 2013.
My father in law came over the same evening and we had a look at the calliper. We’d adjusted the cable and checked everything was moving when we’d done the rear discs, pads and hoses. With the handbrake on the rear wheel still spinned freely. Upon removing the handbrake cable we found we could turn the mechanism with no resistance. The piston was removed to try and see if there was something obvious inside as there was no other access and upon turning the mechanism without the piston something suddenly pinged and re-engaged. Put the piston back in and it was working. So all reassembled.
I managed to get a retest the following day which it passed! However when I went out in to the car in the evening I found a puddle in the passenger footwell. I couldn’t see anywhere obvious apart from a drip on a screw the holds the pipes to the heater box, this made me think it might be the heater matrix. I dried it all out with blue roll, pleased the carpets haven’t been fitted yet.
[pic] https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53828652404_66...
It was still dry inside the next day, I took it for another run so I could try and see where it was coming from when it got hot. When I got back I could hear a drip, on inspection I could see it was coming from one of the joins on the hose to the heater box, I poked it and it started dripping a lot quicker. I nipped it up with a 7mm socket on a small ratchet and it stopped dripping, I nipped all of the others up at the same time.
On the Friday evening (the show on the Sunday) I thought I’d go and put some fuel in ready to go to the show and upon turning the ignition on the fuel pump didn’t prime. A bit of investigation found the fuel pump relay had packed up, it had probably got damp from the heater leak. It’s not a standard relay, I did lots of phoning around Saturday morning whilst my daughter was in her dance class. I ended up going to Rimmerbros near Lincoln to get one before they closed at lunch time. I got it fitted and it resolved the issue, phew! The door cards got fitted late Saturday evening just to make it look a little more complete.
After it resisting my efforts all week I made it to the show (and made it home afterwards)
I do have some more jobs to add to the list after driving it. The speedo doesn’t work, I don’t get a speed reading with the laptop plugged in so it’s either the sensor on the diff or the TVR box of tricks that intercepts the signal before the Speedo. The big one is that the tappet rattle hasn’t stopped, it does come and go but needs addressing before I drive it much more.
Lower dash, air vents, switch panel (after I epoxy glued the brackets to the rear of it), interior mirror and sunvisors reinstalled. I fitted some LED bulbs to the gauges before refitting those gauge panel.
A member of one of the facebook owners group donated a decent condition rear badge to the project, that was installed when I had a few minutes along with new wiper blades and front number plate.
I trial fitted one of the doors and it lined up pretty well. When I fitted the striker it didn’t seem to catch the latch all that well and was a bit notchy. After a while messing about trying to get it lined up I thought I’d come back to that.
When I went to fit the passenger door I thought I better put the loom in first. When I went to fit it I realised the grommets were missing so I had to order some of those in a hurry. They were a pain to fit to the wiring as the plugs are quite chunky and the hole was small, I didn’t want to cut them but didn’t want to have to de-pin the connectors. I managed with a couple of pairs of long nose pliers to stretch the hole enough to feed the plugs through one at a time. You can see here the size of the plugs and the size of the hole.
I had a day off and got the other door and the mirrors fitted. When I went to fit the striker from the box of bits to the drivers door I noticed that one had a shim, I thought I bet that was on the passenger side. I fitted it without the shim and the drivers door shut fine so I put the shim on the passenger one and that resolved the issue and the door then closed and popped open nicely. I started building the doors up with the runners and window motors.
Tunnel top installed and original radio fitted.
The MOT was booked for the 25th June. The only things I was a bit unsure of were the emissions and the handbrake. It passed on the emissions but failed on the handbrake with o/s rear recording no effort. No advisories so although a fail not a bad one considering the last MOT was in 2013.
My father in law came over the same evening and we had a look at the calliper. We’d adjusted the cable and checked everything was moving when we’d done the rear discs, pads and hoses. With the handbrake on the rear wheel still spinned freely. Upon removing the handbrake cable we found we could turn the mechanism with no resistance. The piston was removed to try and see if there was something obvious inside as there was no other access and upon turning the mechanism without the piston something suddenly pinged and re-engaged. Put the piston back in and it was working. So all reassembled.
I managed to get a retest the following day which it passed! However when I went out in to the car in the evening I found a puddle in the passenger footwell. I couldn’t see anywhere obvious apart from a drip on a screw the holds the pipes to the heater box, this made me think it might be the heater matrix. I dried it all out with blue roll, pleased the carpets haven’t been fitted yet.
[pic] https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53828652404_66...
It was still dry inside the next day, I took it for another run so I could try and see where it was coming from when it got hot. When I got back I could hear a drip, on inspection I could see it was coming from one of the joins on the hose to the heater box, I poked it and it started dripping a lot quicker. I nipped it up with a 7mm socket on a small ratchet and it stopped dripping, I nipped all of the others up at the same time.
On the Friday evening (the show on the Sunday) I thought I’d go and put some fuel in ready to go to the show and upon turning the ignition on the fuel pump didn’t prime. A bit of investigation found the fuel pump relay had packed up, it had probably got damp from the heater leak. It’s not a standard relay, I did lots of phoning around Saturday morning whilst my daughter was in her dance class. I ended up going to Rimmerbros near Lincoln to get one before they closed at lunch time. I got it fitted and it resolved the issue, phew! The door cards got fitted late Saturday evening just to make it look a little more complete.
After it resisting my efforts all week I made it to the show (and made it home afterwards)
I do have some more jobs to add to the list after driving it. The speedo doesn’t work, I don’t get a speed reading with the laptop plugged in so it’s either the sensor on the diff or the TVR box of tricks that intercepts the signal before the Speedo. The big one is that the tappet rattle hasn’t stopped, it does come and go but needs addressing before I drive it much more.
Also enjoying this thread, will be good to see how it keeps on.
One of the things I've done recently was add a stainless steel rope between the boot latch and the access panel next to the driver seat. I understand some cars had a version of this installed from factory, but mine didn't, and a friend's Griff had the boot solenoid fail.
Since I didn't fancy having to tear off my number plate if my solenoid died, I went ahead and pre-empted it.
Just thinking, whilst you've got the car in its current state, it's an easy thing to do - mostly because I now need to re-glue some of the boot carpet.
The details are easy to work out, and I will post about it, but I'm going to look at a different route for the steel rope to see if I can follow the emergency door release that also runs from behind the number plate, but I don't know if it's possible yet without pulling a lot of carpet out the boot!
One of the things I've done recently was add a stainless steel rope between the boot latch and the access panel next to the driver seat. I understand some cars had a version of this installed from factory, but mine didn't, and a friend's Griff had the boot solenoid fail.
Since I didn't fancy having to tear off my number plate if my solenoid died, I went ahead and pre-empted it.
Just thinking, whilst you've got the car in its current state, it's an easy thing to do - mostly because I now need to re-glue some of the boot carpet.
The details are easy to work out, and I will post about it, but I'm going to look at a different route for the steel rope to see if I can follow the emergency door release that also runs from behind the number plate, but I don't know if it's possible yet without pulling a lot of carpet out the boot!
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