Its finally here
Discussion
Hi All,
Just to let you know that, albeit just over a month after originally expected, I am now the proud owner of a brand spanking new Atom 245 :)
Drove the 120 odd miles up the A303 and M3 home with a smile on my face pretty much all the way. It has to be said you feel a tad exposed next to an 18 wheeler, but I am sure I will get used to it.
Spec: Pretty much the same as most being ordered at the moment, i.e. every thing apart from the supercharger, wings and removeable steering wheel.
I will look forward to meeting some of you soon and will certainly be taking part in coming track days. I would like my first track day in this car to be Atom only, is that very likely?
Only observations so far:
1. I need a bloody big key to remove the seat bolts. Anyone know off head the size?
2. There is quite a lot of high frequency metal on metal vibration coming from directly behind me at low'ish revs. I don't recall this in the demo car and will speak to Tom if no one has any instant ideas. I gave a quick check on all the rear suspension parts, but couldn't see anything wrong.
3. Boy do those headlights need changing :)
Just to let you know that, albeit just over a month after originally expected, I am now the proud owner of a brand spanking new Atom 245 :)
Drove the 120 odd miles up the A303 and M3 home with a smile on my face pretty much all the way. It has to be said you feel a tad exposed next to an 18 wheeler, but I am sure I will get used to it.
Spec: Pretty much the same as most being ordered at the moment, i.e. every thing apart from the supercharger, wings and removeable steering wheel.
I will look forward to meeting some of you soon and will certainly be taking part in coming track days. I would like my first track day in this car to be Atom only, is that very likely?
Only observations so far:
1. I need a bloody big key to remove the seat bolts. Anyone know off head the size?
2. There is quite a lot of high frequency metal on metal vibration coming from directly behind me at low'ish revs. I don't recall this in the demo car and will speak to Tom if no one has any instant ideas. I gave a quick check on all the rear suspension parts, but couldn't see anything wrong.
3. Boy do those headlights need changing :)
Congratulations! I think a run to Bedford or Crowthorne this weekend is mandatory!
Atom only trackdays will be in September at the Haynes Museum and hopefully in October at Bruntingthorpe. I couldn't wait that long if I were you...
To answer your questions:
1. From the forthcoming handbook:
Moving the seat is a bit tricky, but can be done in less than ten minutes. Its difficulty makes a good excuse to discourage guests from test drives! The one-piece seat assembly unit for both driver and passenger allows five seating locations and is held in place by four 10mm socket head bolts. As the seat is moved rearward the seating position is progressively reclined, so the seat will need tilting as it is moved.
Technique for two people:
1. Remove all four bolts and lift the seat forward or rearward as desired until the front anchorage thread is lined up with the desired seat hole on both sides of the vehicle
2. Using your fingers, counter-rotate the bolt to locate the thread and then finger tighten
3. Together tilt the rear of the seat up/down until the seat is the correct angle to line up the rear holes with the rear anchorage thread
4. Using your fingers, counter-rotate the bolt to locate the thread and then finger tighten
5. Use a 10mm socket head tool to tighten all four bolts prior to sitting in the vehicle.
Technique for one person:
1. Remove all four bolts and lift the seat forward or rearward as desired until the front anchorage thread is lined up with the desired seat hole on your side of the vehicle
2. Using your fingers, counter-rotate the bolt to locate the thread and then finger tighten
3. Tilt the seat up/down until the seat is the correct angle to line up the rear hole with the rear anchorage thread on the same side of the vehicle
4. Using your fingers, counter-rotate the bolt to locate the thread and then finger tighten
5. Walk to the other side of the vehicle and lift the seat until the desired holes line up with the anchorage threads
6. Using your fingers, counter-rotate the bolts to locate the threads and then finger tighten
7. Use a 10mm socket head tool to tighten all four bolts prior to sitting in the vehicle
CAUTION: To avoid cross-threading,locate the thread with your fingers first before applying a socket head tool
2. There is one probable cause for this. Try driving with a passenger. If it goes away, that means the cause is the metal at the top end of the passenger seat belt rattling against the frame. This is a bit like moles. You can tear your hair out and expend time, money and energy futilely trying to get rid of it with various fixes, or just enjoy it as a rattle that means nothing. I still vote for custom earplugs as the best resolution to the Atom's rattles.
3. Oh, yes. Rumour has it that the factory is looking at options. Alternatively, they fit neatly into the 'boot' and are easy to attach and detatch.
Atom only trackdays will be in September at the Haynes Museum and hopefully in October at Bruntingthorpe. I couldn't wait that long if I were you...
To answer your questions:
1. From the forthcoming handbook:
Moving the seat is a bit tricky, but can be done in less than ten minutes. Its difficulty makes a good excuse to discourage guests from test drives! The one-piece seat assembly unit for both driver and passenger allows five seating locations and is held in place by four 10mm socket head bolts. As the seat is moved rearward the seating position is progressively reclined, so the seat will need tilting as it is moved.
Technique for two people:
1. Remove all four bolts and lift the seat forward or rearward as desired until the front anchorage thread is lined up with the desired seat hole on both sides of the vehicle
2. Using your fingers, counter-rotate the bolt to locate the thread and then finger tighten
3. Together tilt the rear of the seat up/down until the seat is the correct angle to line up the rear holes with the rear anchorage thread
4. Using your fingers, counter-rotate the bolt to locate the thread and then finger tighten
5. Use a 10mm socket head tool to tighten all four bolts prior to sitting in the vehicle.
Technique for one person:
1. Remove all four bolts and lift the seat forward or rearward as desired until the front anchorage thread is lined up with the desired seat hole on your side of the vehicle
2. Using your fingers, counter-rotate the bolt to locate the thread and then finger tighten
3. Tilt the seat up/down until the seat is the correct angle to line up the rear hole with the rear anchorage thread on the same side of the vehicle
4. Using your fingers, counter-rotate the bolt to locate the thread and then finger tighten
5. Walk to the other side of the vehicle and lift the seat until the desired holes line up with the anchorage threads
6. Using your fingers, counter-rotate the bolts to locate the threads and then finger tighten
7. Use a 10mm socket head tool to tighten all four bolts prior to sitting in the vehicle
CAUTION: To avoid cross-threading,locate the thread with your fingers first before applying a socket head tool
2. There is one probable cause for this. Try driving with a passenger. If it goes away, that means the cause is the metal at the top end of the passenger seat belt rattling against the frame. This is a bit like moles. You can tear your hair out and expend time, money and energy futilely trying to get rid of it with various fixes, or just enjoy it as a rattle that means nothing. I still vote for custom earplugs as the best resolution to the Atom's rattles.
3. Oh, yes. Rumour has it that the factory is looking at options. Alternatively, they fit neatly into the 'boot' and are easy to attach and detatch.
Thanks for all the excellent info. I will be happy to buy any handbook that gets produced, as I am keen to find my way well around the car.
Re: the vibration, I did consider the harness mounts, but I think the frequency is too high. One thing I have since found is that the spring on the rear right shock was twisting the whole unit and causing it to rub on the mounting. You could even see some rubbed off paint where the shock is attached to the frame. One twist by hand of the sping has released it and the shock now seems to move freely. I will take it out for a run when the rain stops, to see if that has helped.
Re: Lights - I have already started looking for appropriate replacements for the headlights and mirrors. Online bike parts shops have a number of options, I just need to find out what is legal and appropriate.
Re: the vibration, I did consider the harness mounts, but I think the frequency is too high. One thing I have since found is that the spring on the rear right shock was twisting the whole unit and causing it to rub on the mounting. You could even see some rubbed off paint where the shock is attached to the frame. One twist by hand of the sping has released it and the shock now seems to move freely. I will take it out for a run when the rain stops, to see if that has helped.
Re: Lights - I have already started looking for appropriate replacements for the headlights and mirrors. Online bike parts shops have a number of options, I just need to find out what is legal and appropriate.
Tom claims that some of the rattles are caused by the springs. I never hear a thing these days... www.ultimateear.com
For mirrors, see www.patternparts.net and search on mirrors is a good option. I have the PPT 584710 on mine and they're great. you can actually see things in the passenger mirror!
For mirrors, see www.patternparts.net and search on mirrors is a good option. I have the PPT 584710 on mine and they're great. you can actually see things in the passenger mirror!
No, Atoms and cars like them sell all over the world!
Got it in one for me, though... I couldn't give a monkeys about headlights and I'd rather choose my own mirrors. (A working fuel gauge would be nice, though)
As they say on the ads... New mirrors: £19.95. New headlights: £135. Driving the fastest, most original, ultimately thrilling car in the world: priceless.
Got it in one for me, though... I couldn't give a monkeys about headlights and I'd rather choose my own mirrors. (A working fuel gauge would be nice, though)
As they say on the ads... New mirrors: £19.95. New headlights: £135. Driving the fastest, most original, ultimately thrilling car in the world: priceless.
for rear mirrors, you can buy online on :
www.chaft.fr
Retro
Yamaha
XJ600 Diversion
about 12 euros each.
Bruce have seen them and sincerely they are good looking and gives a great rear vue and are Not sensible to vibrations.
They have a "e" mark, they road legal for motorbikes and generally accepted for cars.
JP
www.chaft.fr
Retro
Yamaha
XJ600 Diversion
about 12 euros each.
Bruce have seen them and sincerely they are good looking and gives a great rear vue and are Not sensible to vibrations.
They have a "e" mark, they road legal for motorbikes and generally accepted for cars.
JP
monza said:
Bruce have seen them and sincerely they are good looking and gives a great rear vue and are Not sensible to vibrations.
I can confirm this and they are another excellent choice. The main issues with the OE mirrors are that they wobble and contain flat glass. Any mirror that has convex glass and is robust will be better. €25 will sort it...
Atomize said:
Just to let you know that, albeit just over a month after originally expected, I am now the proud owner of a brand spanking new Atom 245
Nice one - congratulations!
Atomize said:
. There is quite a lot of high frequency metal on metal vibration coming from directly behind me at low'ish revs. I don't recall this in the demo car and will speak to Tom if no one has any instant ideas. I gave a quick check on all the rear suspension parts, but couldn't see anything wrong.
I've found that on both the Mark 1 and Mark 2 Atoms, one of the biggest sources of vibration is where the airbox sits on the engine cover. I've found that some rubber extrusion fitted along the base of the airbox makes a big difference - I really don't know why they aren't doing this at the factory as they already fit the same rubber around the front facing lip of the airbox. An extra metre of the rubber wouldn't break the bank!
Atomize said:
3. Boy do those headlights need changing
Just take them off. Unless you're planning on driving in the dark, they're just an unnecessary luxury.
Cheers, Ross.
Thanks Ross for that extra informaiton. I will give it a check over this w/e.
The sound and vibration is just like a jigsaw cutting through thin aluminium sheet. This is making think something could be hitting or rubbing against the aluminium bulkhead. Its that harsh I think I will need to contact the factory, just to make sure nothing serious is wrong.
I went out again last night, first time caught in the rain, which I am sure I swore I would not do. The back end was all over the place on wet roads, but it seemed very controllable and to be honest quite a lot of fun.
The sound and vibration is just like a jigsaw cutting through thin aluminium sheet. This is making think something could be hitting or rubbing against the aluminium bulkhead. Its that harsh I think I will need to contact the factory, just to make sure nothing serious is wrong.
I went out again last night, first time caught in the rain, which I am sure I swore I would not do. The back end was all over the place on wet roads, but it seemed very controllable and to be honest quite a lot of fun.
Atomize said:
The sound and vibration is just like a jigsaw cutting through thin aluminium sheet. This is making think something could be hitting or rubbing against the aluminium bulkhead. Its that harsh I think I will need to contact the factory, just to make sure nothing serious is wrong.
Best bet, is to get someone to hold the engine at the appropriate revs to make the noise and then work round the car's backend putting a bit of pressure on things with your hand until it stops (watch yourself around moving parts of course). I wonder if it's the bulkhead panel itself vibrating against the chassis - although I thought they put silicon in there now.
I'm hoping my 245 will be on schedule - waiting is bloody awful! I don't mind admitting that I'll feel like a big kid on the day and probably feel sick with excitement.
I read a while back that Ariel don't read this forum which I do find a little surprising as the Atom needs to continually evolve and lots of ideas are discussed here between the owners and potential owners, the lifeblood of Ariel Motor Company.
Atomize, have you got any pics to add to the gallery?
Cheers
JC
I read a while back that Ariel don't read this forum which I do find a little surprising as the Atom needs to continually evolve and lots of ideas are discussed here between the owners and potential owners, the lifeblood of Ariel Motor Company.
Atomize, have you got any pics to add to the gallery?
Cheers
JC
datasafe said:
...I read a while back that Ariel don't read this forum...
Doesn't mean they don't get feedback... I know of no other factory that has more contact between a vast proportion of present and potential owners and the manufacturer/designer of the product. They have attended trackdays, too, where issues were raised, and will continue to do so, I'm sure.
Plus, of course, as one of the owners' club representatives, I have the occasional 'go' at them on members' behalf.
>> Edited by Bruce Fielding on Friday 8th July 11:46
I'm sure you understand that I didn't wish to sound negative, just expressing an opinion. I know that if I was running a small manufacturing business I would be delighted to read the feedback and criticism expressed in an open forum such as this.
Oddly enough, I haven’t met Simon or even spoken to him yet, I just knew I wanted an Atom and the help and encouragement I’ve received from members and posters to this forum has proved invaluable.
I’m very proud the Atom’s British and I doubt there’s another country with such a deep pedigree of producing the cutting edge when it comes to cars, I just love it and can’t wait to get mine.
I love all the rattles, maybe I’d draw the line at high frequency noises!!
Hope you got the cheque Bruce?
Cheers
JC
Oddly enough, I haven’t met Simon or even spoken to him yet, I just knew I wanted an Atom and the help and encouragement I’ve received from members and posters to this forum has proved invaluable.
I’m very proud the Atom’s British and I doubt there’s another country with such a deep pedigree of producing the cutting edge when it comes to cars, I just love it and can’t wait to get mine.
I love all the rattles, maybe I’d draw the line at high frequency noises!!
Hope you got the cheque Bruce?
Cheers
JC
I have just spoken to Tom at the factory and he seems fairly confident that the vibration is being caused at certain frequencies when the rear springs vibrate again the aluminium 'hat'on the damper in which they sit.
Apparently, this problem is not suffered by those with two part sping kits, which is an option I appear to have missed. I have enquired with Tom and will also look into myself to see if there is anything that can sit between spring and 'hat' to reduce the metal on metal vibration. I will report back with any information I can gather.
For those with cars still on order, the two part spring kit may be a worth while investment. I cannot confirm though, as obviously I don't have this.
Apparently, this problem is not suffered by those with two part sping kits, which is an option I appear to have missed. I have enquired with Tom and will also look into myself to see if there is anything that can sit between spring and 'hat' to reduce the metal on metal vibration. I will report back with any information I can gather.
For those with cars still on order, the two part spring kit may be a worth while investment. I cannot confirm though, as obviously I don't have this.
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