Non-standard kit
Discussion
Although there's not much space for fuzzy dice and magic trees and blue LED screen washer lights, owners still find ways to make their Atom their own.
I'm thinking of changing a few things on my new car - for example, I'm swapping the indicators for ACE LED ones which look ubercool and work very well. I'm also changing the mirrors to convex ones that are more like Mk1 ones - or some alternative very 21st century ones which I'm experimenting with. I know that the side repeater from a Corsa has been used to replace the orange factory fit one, and I'll probably change that, too
I also know that Rob has plans to replace all sorts of bits...
What non-factory supplied extras/changes have you done/would you like to do to yours? (Jon - I think this excludes you as we all know what you've done to yours
)
I'm thinking of changing a few things on my new car - for example, I'm swapping the indicators for ACE LED ones which look ubercool and work very well. I'm also changing the mirrors to convex ones that are more like Mk1 ones - or some alternative very 21st century ones which I'm experimenting with. I know that the side repeater from a Corsa has been used to replace the orange factory fit one, and I'll probably change that, too
I also know that Rob has plans to replace all sorts of bits...
What non-factory supplied extras/changes have you done/would you like to do to yours? (Jon - I think this excludes you as we all know what you've done to yours
)HI BRUCE I ALREADY HAVE THE ACE LEDS FITTED INDICATORS AND TAIL AND STOP LIGHTS. I AM SUFFERING WITH SOME FLICKERING AT THE MOMENT AS ITS A TIGHT SQUEEEEEEZ TO FIT THEM IN. I ALSO HAVE THE CLEAR CORSA SIDE REPEATERS IT DID TACK A BIT OF FILEING TO GET THEM IN AND SOME HOT GLUE BUT THEY LOOK GREAT. THE REAR FOG LIGHT IS ALSO CLEAR WITH LEDS FITTED.
For me its just lights, mirrors, full harness and 12v socket. We now have viciously bright Hella Xenons and better than standard normal lights. Haven't bothered with LEDs, they don't make it go faster.
Mirrors: have tried some different motorbike ones, which don't work very well. What have you got on yours, Bruce?
Full harness: 6 point one, since 4 pointers don't hold you in properly
12v socket: to plug my heated waistcoat into and very nice that it too thank you very much.
MC
Mirrors: have tried some different motorbike ones, which don't work very well. What have you got on yours, Bruce?
Full harness: 6 point one, since 4 pointers don't hold you in properly
12v socket: to plug my heated waistcoat into and very nice that it too thank you very much.
MC
On mine :
. Mirrors of Yamaha "Diversion"
. Air hoose going horizontaly directly to a conical air-filter on the left (near the electronic ECU, no use of the Air box intake now. Interest : important noise reduction coming in your ear from the air-box cover.
. Whole on the rear part of the battery box, so that water can go out. Battery is put on 4 small pieces of rubber on each bottom angle so that it's cannot be in contact with some water. On the top of the battery : 2 BTR instead of the origninal screw, so that you can put directly the "crocodile" on it when using a charger when battery is to low.
JP
Websites to buy your special Lights with LED or other ?
. Mirrors of Yamaha "Diversion"
. Air hoose going horizontaly directly to a conical air-filter on the left (near the electronic ECU, no use of the Air box intake now. Interest : important noise reduction coming in your ear from the air-box cover.
. Whole on the rear part of the battery box, so that water can go out. Battery is put on 4 small pieces of rubber on each bottom angle so that it's cannot be in contact with some water. On the top of the battery : 2 BTR instead of the origninal screw, so that you can put directly the "crocodile" on it when using a charger when battery is to low.
JP
Websites to buy your special Lights with LED or other ?
I'm currently trying out these:
They're convex and £17.95 per pair and the stalk is the right length, but they don't adjust at the head (this might be a good thing!). I've put lots of rubber and spring washers in to see if I can keep them from rattling loose - we shall see...
The 12v PTO sounds like a good idea - is that difficult? I'll see how your Xenons look, Meyrick, but I don't drive the Atom at night really - I quite like the wobbly headlight look!
JP - the ACE site: www.aceparts.com/
I also use lots of extra padding to stop rattles etc. Everything you could wish for from Edgware Rubber & trim - www.rubbertrim.co.uk/ - I use the L11A self-adhesive sponge rubber strip around the Dzus fixings, and the 617 U section on the edges of the nose and the airbox cowl. It really made a difference on the Mk1 and I hope will do the same for the Mk2. I've noticed that the passenger harness rattles an awful lot more on the Mk2 - but this might be the 3" ones (I had 2" on the Mk1)
Oh, and I've drilled drain holes in the seat and floor.
The battery charge screws is a very good idea - I have some old crocodile clips which I adapted especially for this purpose which works well when a jump-start is needed!
The rear numberplate is held on with Velcro which seems to work OK on the streets and road humps of London at the moment - no track days yet, so can't tell how secure it really is... However, I'll probably remove it for the track (it's the weight-saving, you know...)
They're convex and £17.95 per pair and the stalk is the right length, but they don't adjust at the head (this might be a good thing!). I've put lots of rubber and spring washers in to see if I can keep them from rattling loose - we shall see...
The 12v PTO sounds like a good idea - is that difficult? I'll see how your Xenons look, Meyrick, but I don't drive the Atom at night really - I quite like the wobbly headlight look!
JP - the ACE site: www.aceparts.com/
I also use lots of extra padding to stop rattles etc. Everything you could wish for from Edgware Rubber & trim - www.rubbertrim.co.uk/ - I use the L11A self-adhesive sponge rubber strip around the Dzus fixings, and the 617 U section on the edges of the nose and the airbox cowl. It really made a difference on the Mk1 and I hope will do the same for the Mk2. I've noticed that the passenger harness rattles an awful lot more on the Mk2 - but this might be the 3" ones (I had 2" on the Mk1)
Oh, and I've drilled drain holes in the seat and floor.
The battery charge screws is a very good idea - I have some old crocodile clips which I adapted especially for this purpose which works well when a jump-start is needed!
The rear numberplate is held on with Velcro which seems to work OK on the streets and road humps of London at the moment - no track days yet, so can't tell how secure it really is... However, I'll probably remove it for the track (it's the weight-saving, you know...)
Bruce - aren't those rear mirrors identical to the ones we had on our trusty Mark I's?
When you say the head's aren't adjustable - are you sure? They look like they ought to be. I never had problems with mine rattling loose, although I did crack the perspex tinted screen on my Mark I from overtightening them.
The ones you've got here - are they more convex than the Mark I mirrors?
Like you, I'm considering mirrors from the Mark I (round) on my Mark II for the better viewing angle.
I'm also planning on a PTO so I can drive in the snow without my knackers dropping off (heated underpants?)
Will have to take a look at those LED indicators - although I'm probably just going to opt for white lenses with coloured bulbs all round on my new car like the ones on the Top Gear Stig lap.
Rubber wise, my Mark I had all the similar stuff to Bruce although I found that foam strip tended to disintegrate over time so I got some neoprene sheeting from RS and used that in various places. It seems like the main vibration points are now covered on factory builds which is good.
On my Mark I, I also found a couple of places where some of the body work rubbed against coolant pipes or wiring loom - I doubt this is a problem on the Mark II, but it's worth keeping an eye out for this kind of thing.
Meyrick - any pics of your PTO? I'd be interested to see them.
Cheers, Ross.
When you say the head's aren't adjustable - are you sure? They look like they ought to be. I never had problems with mine rattling loose, although I did crack the perspex tinted screen on my Mark I from overtightening them.
The ones you've got here - are they more convex than the Mark I mirrors?
Like you, I'm considering mirrors from the Mark I (round) on my Mark II for the better viewing angle.
I'm also planning on a PTO so I can drive in the snow without my knackers dropping off (heated underpants?)
Will have to take a look at those LED indicators - although I'm probably just going to opt for white lenses with coloured bulbs all round on my new car like the ones on the Top Gear Stig lap.
Rubber wise, my Mark I had all the similar stuff to Bruce although I found that foam strip tended to disintegrate over time so I got some neoprene sheeting from RS and used that in various places. It seems like the main vibration points are now covered on factory builds which is good.
On my Mark I, I also found a couple of places where some of the body work rubbed against coolant pipes or wiring loom - I doubt this is a problem on the Mark II, but it's worth keeping an eye out for this kind of thing.
Meyrick - any pics of your PTO? I'd be interested to see them.
Cheers, Ross.
ross.mcw said:I mean they don't have a universal joint at the head. You can adjust them left and right at the base and up and down at the head.
Bruce - aren't those rear mirrors identical to the ones we had on our trusty Mark I's? When you say the head's aren't adjustable - are you sure? They look like they ought to be.
ross.mcw said:Me too!
I never had problems with mine rattling loose, although I did crack the perspex tinted screen on my Mark I from overtightening them.
ross.mcw said:Yes, they're quite wide angle!
The ones you've got here - are they more convex than the Mark I mirrors?
ross.mcw said:Have to say, Richard's installation looks very neat! He can do mine for me
I'm also planning on a PTO so I can drive in the snow without my knackers dropping off (heated underpants?)
- or at least tell me how he did it...!ross.mcw said:I always thought that would make a good rear cover when towing in the rain. Where did you get the neoprene sheeting from? - and was it thick or thin?
Rubber wise, my Mark I had all the similar stuff to Bruce although I found that foam strip tended to disintegrate over time so I got some neoprene sheeting from RS and used that in various places.
This may be slightly off the wall but making a connect between mirrors and 12v sockets ...
... has anyone considered using those tiny wireless cameras that are around now and small screen somewhere to display the results?
I appreciate that there may be an issue with exposed electrics and stuff like that but might be solvable?
Otherwise how about some sort of refractive arrangement along the lines of the cycling helmet with the rear viewer built in.
For anti vibration padding - what about the foam that computer disk drives are often shipped with?
... has anyone considered using those tiny wireless cameras that are around now and small screen somewhere to display the results?
I appreciate that there may be an issue with exposed electrics and stuff like that but might be solvable?
Otherwise how about some sort of refractive arrangement along the lines of the cycling helmet with the rear viewer built in.
For anti vibration padding - what about the foam that computer disk drives are often shipped with?
LongQ said:
This may be slightly off the wall but making a connect between mirrors and 12v sockets ...
... has anyone considered using those tiny wireless cameras that are around now and small screen somewhere to display the results?
I appreciate that there may be an issue with exposed electrics and stuff like that but might be solvable?
Otherwise how about some sort of refractive arrangement along the lines of the cycling helmet with the rear viewer built in.
For anti vibration padding - what about the foam that computer disk drives are often shipped with?
Long - you have no idea of the vibration experienced in an Atom! It's hard enough to see anything in the mirrors, let alone install something like a TV Camera and screen! I have a bulletcam that I strap to my helmet which uses my body as a shock absorber... and even that shakes a bit
As for the cycling helmet, interesting idea... it would take advantage of that corporate shock absorbsion... But how do you get over the visor problem? Also if you're not tall, there's not much rearward vision in an Atom from the seat.
Then again there's always the Raul Julia solution (taken from Gumball Rally where he plays an Italian racing driver) as he enters his Ferrari at the beginning of the race and tears out the rear view mirror and tosses it over his shoulder: "What'sa behind me, doesn't matter!"
It's just a small camera on the top of my helmet:
(like Long Way Round, but not all neat and tidy and faired in!) that connects up to my DV camera which is professionally bracketed to the car using one of these:
I just mean that by being on my head, it uses the flexibility of my body to absorb shocks and make the whole thing steadier.
As for HD kit - high shine chrome?!? Nein Danke!! And the matt black HD stuff is design ditchwater. Sorry - I have deeply etched negative bias thing about Harley Davidsons... No reason for it... maybe it's because they're just another example of fine, high-tech, cutting edge American automotive technology.
(like Long Way Round, but not all neat and tidy and faired in!) that connects up to my DV camera which is professionally bracketed to the car using one of these:
I just mean that by being on my head, it uses the flexibility of my body to absorb shocks and make the whole thing steadier.
As for HD kit - high shine chrome?!? Nein Danke!! And the matt black HD stuff is design ditchwater. Sorry - I have deeply etched negative bias thing about Harley Davidsons... No reason for it... maybe it's because they're just another example of fine, high-tech, cutting edge American automotive technology.
Not at all (he says touching wood!)
They're very good, proper professional kit, and the tubular nature of the Atom works very well with the clamp. It's fine for the road, but on track, the downside is that a lot of the vibration is delivered straight to the DV camera. I'm trying a different setup with the new car...
The good thing about having the cam on your lid is that you get to see the corners before you get to them. If the camera's mounted to the car, you just see where it's fixed to look. You have to remember to keep your head a bit stiller, though.
They're very good, proper professional kit, and the tubular nature of the Atom works very well with the clamp. It's fine for the road, but on track, the downside is that a lot of the vibration is delivered straight to the DV camera. I'm trying a different setup with the new car...
The good thing about having the cam on your lid is that you get to see the corners before you get to them. If the camera's mounted to the car, you just see where it's fixed to look. You have to remember to keep your head a bit stiller, though.
Bruce Fielding said:
Long - you have no idea of the vibration experienced in an Atom! It's hard enough to see anything in the mirrors, let alone install something like a TV Camera and screen! I have a bulletcam that I strap to my helmet which uses my body as a shock absorber... and even that shakes a bit
As for the cycling helmet, interesting idea... it would take advantage of that corporate shock absorbsion... But how do you get over the visor problem? Also if you're not tall, there's not much rearward vision in an Atom from the seat.
Then again there's always the Raul Julia solution (taken from Gumball Rally where he plays an Italian racing driver) as he enters his Ferrari at the beginning of the race and tears out the rear view mirror and tosses it over his shoulder: "What'sa behind me, doesn't matter!"
Absolutely right about the vibration, not something I have yet had the pleasure of experiencing though I have had a run in a rapid Caterham and a few other bits of input that make me think the effect would be challenging!
That said I am sure there will be a solution for your purposes even it is a long quest to find it and adapt it for use.
The helmet rear view thing does look tricky given the seating position BUT if something similar could be chassis mounted on vibration absorbing material you might be able to develop a fixed wide angled 'viewer' which, whilst unlikely to be perfect, would give more consistemt visibility than standard mirror mounting methods. If you could get the anti-vib stuff sorted you might also have a basis for the camera idea. I winder how the racing boys get the picture stability from the onboard cams?
The company the developed the cycling helmet were an innovatory startup as I recall. They may relish a new challenge ...
The Raul Julia solution is also good.
I use the same clamp as Bruce, except mine has the simpler 'ball leveller' while Bruce's has a 'double ball tilt head'.
Both available here:-
www.b-hague.co.uk/Mounting%20Brackets.htm
Models SC1 & SC2. I guess Bruce's has a bit more adjustment while mine is a bit more compact - although it seems to offer as much adjustment as I've needed.
I can't say I'd recommend attaching a DV camcorder directly to these - I doubt you'll have any kind of problem with the camera falling off, but my experience has been that the vibration from the car can affect the tape drive mechanism and I doubt it'll be doing the camera any good in the long run.
Far better, to attach bullet cam to the clamp and have that wired to your DV cam in a bag in the passenger seat where it can be padded a bit against all the bumping around - or as Bruce as done, simply velcro the bullet cam to your helmet.
On my previous Atom, I had the bullet cam mounted on the seat moulding between the driver and passenger's shoulders, this seemed to work well but since then I've found that a bullet cam mounted to the rollbar using the clamp gives a better 'F1 style' view although occasionally you get some resonances through the clamp that can cause the picture to shake a bit.
I got my Sony 480 line bullet cam from here:-
www.rfconcepts.co.uk/helmet_cameras.htm
The picture quality with it is excellent, although you need to adjust the focus of the bullet cam which can be a bit fiddly.
Cheers, Ross.
Both available here:-
www.b-hague.co.uk/Mounting%20Brackets.htm
Models SC1 & SC2. I guess Bruce's has a bit more adjustment while mine is a bit more compact - although it seems to offer as much adjustment as I've needed.
I can't say I'd recommend attaching a DV camcorder directly to these - I doubt you'll have any kind of problem with the camera falling off, but my experience has been that the vibration from the car can affect the tape drive mechanism and I doubt it'll be doing the camera any good in the long run.
Far better, to attach bullet cam to the clamp and have that wired to your DV cam in a bag in the passenger seat where it can be padded a bit against all the bumping around - or as Bruce as done, simply velcro the bullet cam to your helmet.
On my previous Atom, I had the bullet cam mounted on the seat moulding between the driver and passenger's shoulders, this seemed to work well but since then I've found that a bullet cam mounted to the rollbar using the clamp gives a better 'F1 style' view although occasionally you get some resonances through the clamp that can cause the picture to shake a bit.
I got my Sony 480 line bullet cam from here:-
www.rfconcepts.co.uk/helmet_cameras.htm
The picture quality with it is excellent, although you need to adjust the focus of the bullet cam which can be a bit fiddly.
Cheers, Ross.
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