Got my car jet washed and now it's running crap.
Discussion
Went out in my car today and had it washed but after it was running s
t. Back firing and a light come on the dash. Same light came on my ram when I had it and was the lamber sensor. Can anyone give me any pointers. Seems to be running like a Subaru at the mo. Want to take it out tomorrow.
t. Back firing and a light come on the dash. Same light came on my ram when I had it and was the lamber sensor. Can anyone give me any pointers. Seems to be running like a Subaru at the mo. Want to take it out tomorrow. This is doing my head in now l. I haven't tried the wd yet but as it was heavy rain yesterday I didn't do anything but I just ran the car for a while and went down the road and not much change really. Don't no if it's me or it seems to be running a little hotter but I think that's me as it wad running sat still for a little. If it's water should that of cleared it out if not what you think I should do. Please help.
Ok, you need to tell us a little more about what was jet washed. Washing the car normally should not cause this sort of problem. Did they spray high pressure in places they shouldn't have, ie as mentioned before, the air intake. did they spend too long on the windscreen/cowl area, did the clean the engine bay (in which case you on your own) underneath the car, spray in the gills?
Ok so here are some pointers,
First thing is you are going to have to get that code read from the (what i presume) check engine light. with that info then you can get an idea of where to start looking. if you were awake you just brought Neils code reader he posted a few days ago. if you cant get the code read you are going to have a much harder time of it as you have probably knocked a connector or saturated one in water, worse still you have disturbed what is becoming old, heat cycled cabling which can cause breakages.
If they spent a long time around the windscreen with high pressure water they may have managed to either get the coil packs wet or given them and their wiring a jolly good bashing as they are located just underneath the cowl at the back of the engine.
If they sprayed a lot of water in the gills then the ECU is behind the drivers side, yes its weather proof, for driving but not high pressure water coming at it from an unexpected direction.
Where i would start after the code reader is, are the injectors firing. to find out you will need a length of 1/4 inch tube, shove one end in your ear (no further than your elbow) put the other end on the back of each injector in turn (engine running doh) you should hear a loud distinct clicking from each one, any that are quieter than the rest and there is your sign.
If you find one not firing then you need to find out if its the injector or the coil pack. this is where the code would be real handy, but without it you will need a friend. if its the coil pack/coil pack wiring, the injector will fire for a few seconds when you first start the engine before the ecu shuts it down, so you need to be listening to the injector with the pipe hanging out your ear whilst your friend starts the engine.
Find one that shuts down and you are going to be continuity testing the coil pack wiring, find one that's really dead then you will need to check the injector connector's and continuity testing their wiring. you have a service manual don't you? as at this point without the wiring diagrams and connector pin outs your up the creek.
If all the injectors are firing then there is a good chance the ignition system is ok. now you may want to take a look at the oxygen sensors.
of course you have checked the air filter by now haven't you.
Ok so here are some pointers,
First thing is you are going to have to get that code read from the (what i presume) check engine light. with that info then you can get an idea of where to start looking. if you were awake you just brought Neils code reader he posted a few days ago. if you cant get the code read you are going to have a much harder time of it as you have probably knocked a connector or saturated one in water, worse still you have disturbed what is becoming old, heat cycled cabling which can cause breakages.
If they spent a long time around the windscreen with high pressure water they may have managed to either get the coil packs wet or given them and their wiring a jolly good bashing as they are located just underneath the cowl at the back of the engine.
If they sprayed a lot of water in the gills then the ECU is behind the drivers side, yes its weather proof, for driving but not high pressure water coming at it from an unexpected direction.
Where i would start after the code reader is, are the injectors firing. to find out you will need a length of 1/4 inch tube, shove one end in your ear (no further than your elbow) put the other end on the back of each injector in turn (engine running doh) you should hear a loud distinct clicking from each one, any that are quieter than the rest and there is your sign.
If you find one not firing then you need to find out if its the injector or the coil pack. this is where the code would be real handy, but without it you will need a friend. if its the coil pack/coil pack wiring, the injector will fire for a few seconds when you first start the engine before the ecu shuts it down, so you need to be listening to the injector with the pipe hanging out your ear whilst your friend starts the engine.
Find one that shuts down and you are going to be continuity testing the coil pack wiring, find one that's really dead then you will need to check the injector connector's and continuity testing their wiring. you have a service manual don't you? as at this point without the wiring diagrams and connector pin outs your up the creek.
If all the injectors are firing then there is a good chance the ignition system is ok. now you may want to take a look at the oxygen sensors.
of course you have checked the air filter by now haven't you.
skard4lifebilly said:
Thanks buddy you think that'll make the engine management light to come on.
leaving the gas cap off will cause the engine management light to come on. it just tells you something is out of whack. what you need is the code it has recorded. a code reader is the easy way, but you can get the code by a combination of turning the ignition on in a certain way and counting the flashes, cant remember off the top of my head the ignition sequence thoughI looked it up for you
Cycle the ignition as follows within 5 seconds (nb on is just before start)
on - off - on - off - on
now count the number of times the MIL flashes, there will be a pause between each number of the code, and a longer pause between each trouble code.
once you have your trouble codes you can post them back on here or use google as up to a certain range odbII codes are standard.
Cycle the ignition as follows within 5 seconds (nb on is just before start)
on - off - on - off - on
now count the number of times the MIL flashes, there will be a pause between each number of the code, and a longer pause between each trouble code.
once you have your trouble codes you can post them back on here or use google as up to a certain range odbII codes are standard.
Got it washed at the local car wash as I parked it under the tree and there were leaves all over buy the windscreen. It happened before a little lumpy when I got it washed I should of known better then. I'll post a pic of the light that's on there. Now I'm thinking they were washing by the windscreen alot but never thought about it. I'll cheak the airbox tomorrow then. Thanks for your help it means alot. I don't suppose there. Are anyone that's near me I could come see or you come see me and give me a hand. I'll pay them there fuel or what ever.
spraying high pressure water backwards under the bonnet from the windscreen would likely dislodge an injector connector, especially if the rear seal to the cowl is not well fitting or been removed altogether for heat and airflow reasons, and to be fair the injector connectors are a bit crap.
here is a pic of the light and I no it's not the best but my phone wouldn't take any better. ViperDave said:
I looked it up for you
Cycle the ignition as follows within 5 seconds (nb on is just before start)
on - off - on - off - on
now count the number of times the MIL flashes, there will be a pause between each number of the code, and a longer pause between each trouble code.
once you have your trouble codes you can post them back on here or use google as up to a certain range odbII codes are standard.
Just do what Dave says - cycle the ignition, count the flashes and post a reply. Cycle the ignition as follows within 5 seconds (nb on is just before start)
on - off - on - off - on
now count the number of times the MIL flashes, there will be a pause between each number of the code, and a longer pause between each trouble code.
once you have your trouble codes you can post them back on here or use google as up to a certain range odbII codes are standard.
the light that will flash is the one in your photo which is the MIL. are you doing on/off 5 times or on/off twice finishing at a final on. could also be read as on three times without the final off.
you go from key in position to just before start. when you turn it back you go to the key out position not all the way back to the last stop which is one behind the key out and is the accessory position.
you go from key in position to just before start. when you turn it back you go to the key out position not all the way back to the last stop which is one behind the key out and is the accessory position.
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