RT-10 ALARM PROBLEM
Discussion
Hi again my RT-10 fires up and stops after a few secs, alarm set is flashing on the dash and indicators flashing, drove in for a respray and battery died and alarm flashing and starts for about 3secs and switches off, i need sum tech help asap as i need to move it from the paint shop, i never had any remote for this alarm so cant switch it off......H....E...L...P...!!!!
Did you get it sorted since July or is this a separate problem?
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
We have had a couple of members recently who have had similar symptoms to your post regarding starting then cutting out which turned out to be a duff battery, if yours was dead then you may find that it need replacing.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
We have had a couple of members recently who have had similar symptoms to your post regarding starting then cutting out which turned out to be a duff battery, if yours was dead then you may find that it need replacing.
The main fuse box on a 94 RT is under the dash on the passenger side of the car, but I can't think of anything that would be causing you this kind of issue other than what has already been suggested.
Have you tried the battery disconnection and earthing I described above?
Have you tried the battery disconnection and earthing I described above?
Edited by GTSDave on Thursday 5th November 16:58
it has an alpine security system with no remote, i have traced all this and it only cuts the starter pulse however i havent disturbed it much, the car also seems to have a alarm sort of a box on the driver side top rite corner, i think this maybe the one that is the culprit as the fuel and ignition wires into it by factory.......what next ????
1. Ensure the alarm system is not armed.
2. (1996 ~ 1998 GEN II) Ground pin C13 loose green wire taped to harness of EEM connector, which is under dash mounted on the left side of trans tunnel, directly above accelerator. Easy access if you remove knee bolster and rubber bungee cord that holds EEM to tunnel.
2A. (1999 ~ 2000) As #2, but instead of C13 you're grounding Terminal 1 of the DLC. (9/30 update...Ron found out that DLC is the Data Link Connector, i.e. the under dash OBD2 connector which is above your left knee)
2B. (ALL GEN I) Ground green "Program" Wire located next to SAM and RKE modules. Is a green wire with a bullet connector on end. Is located under driver's side instrument panel.
Hint, Make sure you're connecting to a solid body ground by testing it with an ohm meter.
3. Turn ignition to run position while green wire is still grounded!
4. EEM acknowledges entry into programming mode by flashing the dash LED. If it doesn't flash, you either:
- Have the wrong wire
- Aren't solidly grounded
- You came off ground after the ignition switch was placed in the run position. Start over.
5. (All GEN II) Press BOTH buttons on the transmitter simultaneously and continuously for 10 seconds. You will hear a triple horn chirp when FOB is accepted by the EEM.
5B. (All GEN I) Press and release the arm or disarm button on either FOB, then same for the next.
Hint: Make sure your transmitter is working, i.e fresh CR2032 battery $1.19 @ Zbattery.com and good clean battery contacts. Many times your problem is an electrically weak connection within the FOB itself.
6. You MUST program all FOBS during the same programming process. You can program up to 4 on a GEN II and I think only 2 on a GEN I.
That's it. Turn the ignition off and remove green wire from ground, then test the arm and disarm functions.
I've done 4 FOBS myself and found it quite easy once you find the green wire.
2. (1996 ~ 1998 GEN II) Ground pin C13 loose green wire taped to harness of EEM connector, which is under dash mounted on the left side of trans tunnel, directly above accelerator. Easy access if you remove knee bolster and rubber bungee cord that holds EEM to tunnel.
2A. (1999 ~ 2000) As #2, but instead of C13 you're grounding Terminal 1 of the DLC. (9/30 update...Ron found out that DLC is the Data Link Connector, i.e. the under dash OBD2 connector which is above your left knee)
2B. (ALL GEN I) Ground green "Program" Wire located next to SAM and RKE modules. Is a green wire with a bullet connector on end. Is located under driver's side instrument panel.
Hint, Make sure you're connecting to a solid body ground by testing it with an ohm meter.
3. Turn ignition to run position while green wire is still grounded!
4. EEM acknowledges entry into programming mode by flashing the dash LED. If it doesn't flash, you either:
- Have the wrong wire
- Aren't solidly grounded
- You came off ground after the ignition switch was placed in the run position. Start over.
5. (All GEN II) Press BOTH buttons on the transmitter simultaneously and continuously for 10 seconds. You will hear a triple horn chirp when FOB is accepted by the EEM.
5B. (All GEN I) Press and release the arm or disarm button on either FOB, then same for the next.
Hint: Make sure your transmitter is working, i.e fresh CR2032 battery $1.19 @ Zbattery.com and good clean battery contacts. Many times your problem is an electrically weak connection within the FOB itself.
6. You MUST program all FOBS during the same programming process. You can program up to 4 on a GEN II and I think only 2 on a GEN I.
That's it. Turn the ignition off and remove green wire from ground, then test the arm and disarm functions.
I've done 4 FOBS myself and found it quite easy once you find the green wire.
I think a good Vehicle Electrics specialist might be the way forward if none of the above works, it sounds like something is wrong with your immobiliser and/or your aftermarket alarm if the fob is having no affect, but my guess is that the drained battery may have been the initial cause, had a similar issue with my old RT when I did alot of work on it and the battery got low after a few weeks, battery fully charged and a reset sorted out the problem.
Good luck!
Good luck!
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