Viper TwinTurbo - any experiences?

[DennisACR]

Dear maniacs,

It took about one and a half year to have the Viper, like I want it. I bought it as a quite stock car and can now say, that no screw is unscrewed anymore. There are about 60 - 70 modifications on it so far. Everything is done (exterior, interior, brakes, suspension, transmission and so on), except of the engine and the half-shafts. I have a slight engine mod, creating not much HP but is a solid base for a turbocharger. I have a 2000 ACR with 99 engine, forged pistons, 70mm throttles, 70mm intake manifold, 3" B&B headers, 3" Mopar race sidepipes without catalytics and some other stuff. As you see, this is not the hell of an engine.
I am now ready to get it on with the TT kit. Does anybody have ANY experience with that? I had contact with www.CPEturbos.com, who is making quite reasonable prices. I am not sure if I should take Turbonetics, Garrett or something completely other. I also do not know, who will make my PCM fitted to the new setup. And I ask myself how the stock injectors should feed the new masses in the cylinders. I trust in the Tremec stock transmission and don't think, that I will have a problem with it. Maybe every 10000km, but nothing is for free.
I don't want somebody to build on my car anymore, so I will do the mechanical part on myself. Some stronger half-shafts are a must... How are the Roe ones? I want to built the car up to about 1000hp, but I guess that I won't come over 900hp with this quite stock engine.
Are there any experiences about damages or lifetime on a turbocharged engine? Can the stock roller rockers be used? They always fear me, when I see this stamped steel
Why no supercharger? Because the Roe one has no intercooler. The Paxton has an intercooler but a cruel service. I don't want to make half things, but hunt the big ones at the dragstrip. With a stock Viper you won't get in the Top10 on a big event.
The power that once made my mouth wet is now enough to drive to work. I need more.
Yes it is stupid
Greets
Dennis

[Viper]

Carl over here has nearly completed a Cpe install, a bit of light reading for you

http://www.viperalley.com/forum/viper-discussions-...


and Spud has repeatly been winning in his very reliable S/C 1000+bhp

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

Edited by Viper on Friday 9th May 21:30

[Boosted LS1]

Hi Dennis, do you know your compression ratio? A street turbo engine should be no more unreliable then an atmo engine if built/managed correctly. You'll only hit boost for short bursts due to the warp speed you'll attain. Invest in heat management, that's essential. I'd recomment an intercooler if you are planning to use more then 7 psi boost or maybe better still install a water injection system which is simpler and more compact. If you want to use high boost I'd go for a darton block with greater displacement and build it with low compression pistons. The rest of the engine whichever way you go can remain relatively stock inside, stock lifters pushrods etc will be fine. Proper fasteners should be used for the crank, rods and heads. Keep it simple an it'll work. Either use stand alone management or a piggy back ecu activated by manifold pressure. HTH.

[GTS]

Go For It my Boy

[Viper]

on the PCM, i have only ever heard of AEM or Motec working on a highly modded viper, maybe sean roes VEC3 ?

if your serious about some big numbers you need to get on the alley website

Edited by Viper on Friday 9th May 22:26

[DennisACR]

thank you.
It took me 2 hours to get through the "you are an idiot", "no you are" and some other crap. But there is also very useful information regarding the installation.
I wonder what he did with his transmission.
Forgot my Viperalley password... doh
Dennis

[N GTS]

The stock injectors will not support, even if you maxed the fuel pressure, you'd want about 70lb top feed or so. CPE will advise on engine build, their Turbo kit is very good. Stock lifters do not have large oil feed. The stock T56 you will have problems with (pads, shift forks, 2-piece main, oil issues, etc) many weakness when you increase power :-( What clutch did you change to, their are only a couple of options that will hold out. Best drive shafts are the HD unitrax, or GKN and Mike Williams does nice CV option that don't bind. Fit ATB rear, stock diff will not hold out! I'm not a big fan of AEM, Motec (if you have the fund) is the way to go, or Magnetti is a Euro choice, both need different engine sensors. Aquamist WI is good, I trialed their new mapped kit last year with very pleasing results.

Edited by N GTS on Friday 9th May 23:35

[DennisACR]

And let me guess, the Roe supercharger is much more easier to install. The Paxton a little harder and making a TT kit that works is a superhard job?

[Viper]

DennisACR said:

a TT kit that works is a superhard job?

i think 'superhard' is an understatement, ask Carl about his eleventy billion hours install

Carl i see, that Luke must of sorted you out with some sticky rubber that Pikey's in trouble

Edited by Viper on Friday 9th May 23:52

[DennisACR]

yes, I have no problem with working much on my car. I like this (when it works afterwards ), but is there that much deeper knowledge you need to do that? Or is a hand-talented mechanic with good conscience and much time enough for this job?
I fear the electronics part most... And I don't trust Motec.
Dennis

[DennisACR]

From where could I get a Quaife diff. I would like to avoid buying the transmission parts in the US. This Mark Williams, isn't he a European? Can I get HP parts in Europe, that are really good?
Thanks for all
Dennis