service fluids
Discussion
seen the thread for mopar engine oil group buy - what is the best source for the other car oils/fluids:
trans. lubricant 75w-85 (ms9070)
diff. lubricant 75w-140
ltd slip diff. additive
power steering fluid ms5931
or the nearest best UK equivalents?
was curious to find out what chrysler UK do for a viper service....
- plugs
- air filter
- all above fluids + engine oil + coolant change
- pads change
- visual condition check
...total: £931
(think it included VAT but didn't stay on the phone long enough to check...!)
trans. lubricant 75w-85 (ms9070)
diff. lubricant 75w-140
ltd slip diff. additive
power steering fluid ms5931
or the nearest best UK equivalents?
was curious to find out what chrysler UK do for a viper service....
- plugs
- air filter
- all above fluids + engine oil + coolant change
- pads change
- visual condition check
...total: £931
(think it included VAT but didn't stay on the phone long enough to check...!)best place for all the mopar stuff would be your local Chrysler dealer, some bits are quite cheap and off the shelf (such as the oil filter which is the same as the jeep)
There is a post around here somewhere that i made a while ago with all the part numbers and prices. Worst bit is the tranny oil if you put in the syntorque rather than dexron III as that stuff is priced as if its made of gold.
As for alternate sources of other brands, US automotive apparently do some, so do North Hants tyres (sometimes) I think there may be a royal purple guy down your way but i have never got very far trying to source that. As always though if you don't go mopar there are as many posts raving about a brand as there are "it wrecked my tranny" posts.
if that price is doing everything (major 6yr service) its probably about right, i was quoted £700 4 years ago. brought the fluids and spent the rest on a decent(ish) jack and got my hands dirty. Its all pretty easy on a viper.
There is a post around here somewhere that i made a while ago with all the part numbers and prices. Worst bit is the tranny oil if you put in the syntorque rather than dexron III as that stuff is priced as if its made of gold.
As for alternate sources of other brands, US automotive apparently do some, so do North Hants tyres (sometimes) I think there may be a royal purple guy down your way but i have never got very far trying to source that. As always though if you don't go mopar there are as many posts raving about a brand as there are "it wrecked my tranny" posts.
if that price is doing everything (major 6yr service) its probably about right, i was quoted £700 4 years ago. brought the fluids and spent the rest on a decent(ish) jack and got my hands dirty. Its all pretty easy on a viper.
V1PER said:
best place for all the mopar stuff would be your local Chrysler dealer, some bits are quite cheap and off the shelf (such as the oil filter which is the same as the jeep)
Oil filter is now a viper only part......
well the 2008 one is but i cant see how the oil filter off an old jeep wont fit an old viper when it always used to.Oil filter is now a viper only part......
Still fits but there now is a viper only filter as well.....
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Don't forget the brake and clutch fluid while your at it. Syringe to empty out the clutch master and a good bleed for the brakes.
Makes such a difference with DOT 5.
At present I still use the Jeep Ram etc filter with no problem and either Mobile 1 Motorsport Formular or Valvoline Motorsport both of which are highly recomended.
Makes such a difference with DOT 5.
At present I still use the Jeep Ram etc filter with no problem and either Mobile 1 Motorsport Formular or Valvoline Motorsport both of which are highly recomended.
yep break and clutch fluid every 2 years, DOT3, DOT4 or as Paul says DOT5 but not DOT 5.1 as its incompatible, check the break lines as well for cracks or bulges. Clutch fluid you can do as Paul says or a bleed from the slave isn't too hard. (not like the vette where you have to remove the transmission!!!) The breaks have two bleed nipples on the fronts and IIRC (so check) you do inside - outside - inside for a full bleed.
A chassis lube wouldn't go a miss either, three nipples on each corner with a good quality synthetic grease, Pump it in until you feel the boots swell a little, cant remember the correct specification for sure off the top of my head. Also use silicone grease spray on hinges locks and wipe onto weather striping. (don't do the hood supports as i have heard of the hood not staying up afterwards.)
Check your PCV valve also, but if your low millage its more than likely in great condition.
Plug leads may/should have the date on them, about 4 years is the change interval I've seen batted around. Check your fan belt as well, i think that would be in the 6 year service from the dealer
Coolant should be the green stuff every 2 years as the pink is not compatible and when mixed can form a gel blocking the coolant passageways. Also check the coolant hoses for deterioration, as i have found on my heater box connections even the slightest of leak will cause the engine to run hot as it presumably sucks air in when it cools rater than coolant from the overflow bottle in the fascia. Don't forget to change the coolant in there as well.
disclaimer - all info given for Gen2, experiences may vary for Gen1, poster will not be responsible for a state of confusion or any rubbish spouted
A chassis lube wouldn't go a miss either, three nipples on each corner with a good quality synthetic grease, Pump it in until you feel the boots swell a little, cant remember the correct specification for sure off the top of my head. Also use silicone grease spray on hinges locks and wipe onto weather striping. (don't do the hood supports as i have heard of the hood not staying up afterwards.)
Check your PCV valve also, but if your low millage its more than likely in great condition.
Plug leads may/should have the date on them, about 4 years is the change interval I've seen batted around. Check your fan belt as well, i think that would be in the 6 year service from the dealer
Coolant should be the green stuff every 2 years as the pink is not compatible and when mixed can form a gel blocking the coolant passageways. Also check the coolant hoses for deterioration, as i have found on my heater box connections even the slightest of leak will cause the engine to run hot as it presumably sucks air in when it cools rater than coolant from the overflow bottle in the fascia. Don't forget to change the coolant in there as well.
disclaimer - all info given for Gen2, experiences may vary for Gen1, poster will not be responsible for a state of confusion or any rubbish spouted
Edited by ViperDave on Friday 26th October 10:05
disclaimer - all info given for Gen2, experiences may vary for Gen1, poster will not be responsible for a state of confusion or any rubbish spouted
LOL!!
Pretty much what dave said.....
The diff oil can be a pain to drain as there is no drain plug you need to suck it out the filler point....93 and some early 94s had drain plugs on them....
LOL!!
Pretty much what dave said.....
The diff oil can be a pain to drain as there is no drain plug you need to suck it out the filler point....93 and some early 94s had drain plugs on them....
V1PER said:
The diff oil can be a pain to drain as there is no drain plug you need to suck it out the filler point....93 and some early 94s had drain plugs on them....
Too right. It can also be a B
h to get back in again as its like treacle. Best way i have found for both diff and tranny is to get about six inches of pipe to put onto the spout of the bottle so that you can get the bottle right up there and squeeze it in. oh erAlso put the friction modifier in first then fill with oil and the stupid thing takes about 200 ml more than a bottle full so you have to buy two.
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