Discussion
The install isn’t really that hard. The worst bit will probably be getting the old ones out, I had troubles with corroded bolts on the old flex pipe connector that was a real PITA and ended up having to cut the old exhaust only to find I cut it too long still to get it out. Once the old ones are out the belangers go in easy as they are in two parts, some of the header bolt holes are slots so you can put some bolts in to hold the gasket and then hang the header and tighten it up.
You may be successful with the fibre gaskets that come with the belangers but if you do use them you need to make sure you get your bolts done up right and redo them several times. I used the belanger gaskets and they were ok for a while but then started leaking after an engine overheat during my MOT emissions test. When I replaced them with the stock metal gaskets they had gone hard brittle and just crumbled into about 20 pieces which was like a jigsaw puzzle on the garage floor to make sure I hadn’t lost any down the exhaust or worst still into the engine. Others have not had a problem but as the metal ones are only about $20 I would say its not worth the risk.
Some recommend you either remove or tape up the valve covers as they will get scratched if you are not careful, but as the powder coat is peeling off mine anyway I didn’t bother, I need to get them recoated anyway. To do the passenger side you need to remove the heater fan box, but that’s just 4 bolts and it pulls off. You may also need to unbolt the coolant tank so you can move it out of the way slightly.
Have a selection of spanners for the header bolts if you can. I found when I did the original install a lot of the bolts were hard to get to but on redoing the gaskets with a different set of spanners it wasn’t that hard, so if you can source a selection of spanners for the job you may then have one that makes the job a lot easier. You also need to be careful, and I think its is something like bolt no 4 on the drivers side, that you don’t catch the connection on the starter motor which is live even if you disconnect under the hood. Or do the job properly and disconnect the battery completely at the back. If you do catch it, at least it leaves a nice mark on the spanner to show you where to put some tape.
That’s the easy bit. Now you have to decide if you use the heat shields or not and that is about as controversial as the pickle.
The pickle sits in the collector to help the flow merge and is subject to as much debate as the heat shields as to leave it in or cut it out. I think the closest to agreement that has been reached is to remove it for a supercharged car and leave it in if normally aspirated. We now think we know why we haven’t seen much of Phil lately as he may have been busy spannering in the garage.
Here’s a picture of it. Brutally stolen from Neil.
Good luck
You may be successful with the fibre gaskets that come with the belangers but if you do use them you need to make sure you get your bolts done up right and redo them several times. I used the belanger gaskets and they were ok for a while but then started leaking after an engine overheat during my MOT emissions test. When I replaced them with the stock metal gaskets they had gone hard brittle and just crumbled into about 20 pieces which was like a jigsaw puzzle on the garage floor to make sure I hadn’t lost any down the exhaust or worst still into the engine. Others have not had a problem but as the metal ones are only about $20 I would say its not worth the risk.
Some recommend you either remove or tape up the valve covers as they will get scratched if you are not careful, but as the powder coat is peeling off mine anyway I didn’t bother, I need to get them recoated anyway. To do the passenger side you need to remove the heater fan box, but that’s just 4 bolts and it pulls off. You may also need to unbolt the coolant tank so you can move it out of the way slightly.
Have a selection of spanners for the header bolts if you can. I found when I did the original install a lot of the bolts were hard to get to but on redoing the gaskets with a different set of spanners it wasn’t that hard, so if you can source a selection of spanners for the job you may then have one that makes the job a lot easier. You also need to be careful, and I think its is something like bolt no 4 on the drivers side, that you don’t catch the connection on the starter motor which is live even if you disconnect under the hood. Or do the job properly and disconnect the battery completely at the back. If you do catch it, at least it leaves a nice mark on the spanner to show you where to put some tape.
That’s the easy bit. Now you have to decide if you use the heat shields or not and that is about as controversial as the pickle.
The pickle sits in the collector to help the flow merge and is subject to as much debate as the heat shields as to leave it in or cut it out. I think the closest to agreement that has been reached is to remove it for a supercharged car and leave it in if normally aspirated. We now think we know why we haven’t seen much of Phil lately as he may have been busy spannering in the garage.
Here’s a picture of it. Brutally stolen from Neil.
Good luck
Edited by ViperDave on Friday 12th October 09:23
Thanks Dave, angle grinder is at the ready for chopping away the old exhaust 
My next question was going to be about the heat shields. I take it then, they will go back over the Belangers ? If so, I think I'll leave them in place. The pickle too.
I heard it was not a good idea to bandage the new headers. They're supposed to be treated already (with what?) to help heat dissipation.
My next question was going to be about the heat shields. I take it then, they will go back over the Belangers ? If so, I think I'll leave them in place. The pickle too.
I heard it was not a good idea to bandage the new headers. They're supposed to be treated already (with what?) to help heat dissipation.
It is with great delight that I can say I have "lost my pickle" to a Roe SC, just in the final stages of putting the exhausts back, once I receive insulation packages from ATP wrap. Would love to have come to the Dyno Day, but I will not be back on the road by then due to business pressures!
Nice one Phil, look forward to seeing it some time.
As for the hear shields. they do fit with a bit of reshaping. I used 3 of the original header bolts which are double ended to mount them. they will be too long though so i had to add some washers. Some claim they aren't needed as the belangers are supposed to be coated but they do still get bloody hot and while they may not immediately melt something they cant be helping in the long term. Belanger say not to use heat wrap though as that can destroy the coating and mine do have some areas of coating which has come off which may not have done had i left the shields off but i will never know for sure.
These things are made out of crushed razor blades so expect to get a couple of cuts from them.
As for the hear shields. they do fit with a bit of reshaping. I used 3 of the original header bolts which are double ended to mount them. they will be too long though so i had to add some washers. Some claim they aren't needed as the belangers are supposed to be coated but they do still get bloody hot and while they may not immediately melt something they cant be helping in the long term. Belanger say not to use heat wrap though as that can destroy the coating and mine do have some areas of coating which has come off which may not have done had i left the shields off but i will never know for sure.
These things are made out of crushed razor blades so expect to get a couple of cuts from them.
a pickle you say....hmm. I didnt get any pickle on my B&B's... i take it this is only specific to belangers?
I think because Roe sent me the wrong headers i lose a slight bit of torque on the low rev range but gain a bit extra bhp on the top revs. Either way she definately goes and sounds better
I think because Roe sent me the wrong headers i lose a slight bit of torque on the low rev range but gain a bit extra bhp on the top revs. Either way she definately goes and sounds better
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