Brake Reservoir Cap
Discussion
Does anyone have an unwanted reservoir cap hanging around?
I'm trying to make a pressure based brake fluid bleeding tool work and the supplied cap size is wrong (unsurprisingly) so I figured I can just drill a hole in a spare one and fit connector gubbins to that. Only problem is I can't find a spare cap easily. I figure most Chrysler ones of the same era are the same so it shouldn't be hard but the internet seems to fall over when you are not looking for 'Ford' or 'Fiat' parts...
I'm trying to make a pressure based brake fluid bleeding tool work and the supplied cap size is wrong (unsurprisingly) so I figured I can just drill a hole in a spare one and fit connector gubbins to that. Only problem is I can't find a spare cap easily. I figure most Chrysler ones of the same era are the same so it shouldn't be hard but the internet seems to fall over when you are not looking for 'Ford' or 'Fiat' parts...
Thanks Baz. I've opted to try the universal cap thing first (although I know I will have to modify it) as having taken the supplied cap apart I suspect there is some work involved in making a half way decent seal on the factory caps.
As an aside, I'm not sure what weather you are all having but I'm now debating buying a DUKW!
As an aside, I'm not sure what weather you are all having but I'm now debating buying a DUKW!
I know you have already spent some money and done exactly what I did by buying the pressure bleeder first. But I'm lazier than you and when i found the universal cap wouldn't fit and google wasn't helping out with a cap i turned to amazon and ordered a vacuum bleeder instead.
The thought that finally pushed me that way was the idea of a bottle of brake fluid under pressure with a Heath Robinson connection to the reservoir all sitting over my paintwork like the proverbial time bomb. Additional arguments in favor of the vacuum bleeder were that under pressure air bubbles in the lines are compressed making them smaller, under vacuum they are larger and easier to shift, all if which is probably over thought b
ks but....
Of course inline with a balanced argument it should be noted with a vacuum bleeder it is nearly impossible to know you have all the air out of the lines because air is sucked into the bleeder tube around the nipple so you never see an uninterrupted flow of bubble free fluid. But brake fluid is cheap and even when i have changed calipers i have just worked on the overdoing the bleeding process and not had any troubles with a firm pedal and marking the vacuum vessel with the volume of a full fluid change as per the manual means i just set the bleeder off and cable tie the trigger open while if finish off the oil change
The thought that finally pushed me that way was the idea of a bottle of brake fluid under pressure with a Heath Robinson connection to the reservoir all sitting over my paintwork like the proverbial time bomb. Additional arguments in favor of the vacuum bleeder were that under pressure air bubbles in the lines are compressed making them smaller, under vacuum they are larger and easier to shift, all if which is probably over thought b
ks but....Of course inline with a balanced argument it should be noted with a vacuum bleeder it is nearly impossible to know you have all the air out of the lines because air is sucked into the bleeder tube around the nipple so you never see an uninterrupted flow of bubble free fluid. But brake fluid is cheap and even when i have changed calipers i have just worked on the overdoing the bleeding process and not had any troubles with a firm pedal and marking the vacuum vessel with the volume of a full fluid change as per the manual means i just set the bleeder off and cable tie the trigger open while if finish off the oil change
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