LIFTING QUESTION

[Viper Stuart]

Moved the car last weekend for the 1st time since Nov and the clutch has gone soft (98GTS). I have got the master cylinder replaced and pressure is holding but some fluid in the bellhousing. In the probable event that the slave needs done also I am friendly with a mechanic who has a 2 post lift and he was concerned if this was ok to use on my car as opposed to a drive on 4 poster. Any advice/comments gratefully accepted

[ViperDave]

concerns would be clearance, both driving over anything it might have going between the posts and if he can get the arms under the jack points at the front and rear of the sills, either the jack loops or the frame immediately behind, other than that i would have thought it would be fine, just don't put too much weight on the front, so no photo shoots with bikini models on the hood whilst its on the lift!

I wouldn't fancy sitting in a car to operate anything on a two post either.

What were his concerns specifically?

[smulli555]

Hope this helps its from 96 gts shop manual

[ViperDave]

Yeah if the transmission is coming out then some extra care needs to be taken, but i guess it would all depend on where you can get the lift arms and how stable and secure the car is on a particular lift including what other precautions can be taken.

End of the day you have to go with what the owner of the lift thinks is safe as hopefully he has read the manual at some point and knows how to operate it safely.

[Viper Stuart]

assuming we could get the car on the ramp in the first place his main concern was damage or flexing of the chassis. Not dealing often with American cars I think he has heard stories of cars,mainly convertibles,flexing if the doors weren't closed from example.
If I do go ahead I would do clutch and pilot at same time, are there any other gaskets/seals that would be prudent to order??
Thanks
Stuart

[fatboy18]

Viper chassis is really stiff, don't worry about flexing.
Replaced my clutch on a 2 post lift

Now depending on What 2 post lift it is, (some have a plate on the floor running between the two posts) Clearance of the lift arms is an issue, Had to also use a trolley jack to lift up the car to be able to swing the arms in.

If you have fluid in the bell housing then without doubt its the slave that requires replacing.

Getting the gearbox out is a bit of a bh, that bloody thing is heavy! Its a case of pulling it back and twisting it at an angle to get it to drop out (after you have disconnected all ancillaries).

You will need to get yourself a pair of replacement straps for the prop shaft ujs. If you remove the prop shaft from the end of the gearbox the oil will come out (so be prepared for that).
Replacement slave cylinders are available via eBay

Shame you are not nearer, we could have put the car over my pitt and wipped it out

[fatboy18]

Mopar part number

Edited by fatboy18 on Wednesday 4th February 21:38

[Dr-Bob]

Slaves are a common failure.. Chassis is plenty strong enough just be careful where you lift

You will need a set of prop shaft straps aswell. .

3 to 4 hour job

[Viper Stuart]

Thanks for the replies and offer of help. Didn't realise the straps were that essential. The old fluid was probably 16 yrs old ,black and pretty thin so I was hoping the new stuff being thicker would not leak. Will order the bits and get the job done. Must be 35 years since I changed the clutch on my old Cortina and my dads Vauxhall Cresta!

[ViperDave]

you can get three wheels off the ground with one jack point on a viper, chassis flex is not an issue, just take care and be aware of center of gravity when removing heavy components on a two post and maybe take the precaution of securing the chassis to the lift arms with straps just to be safe.

As for the axle/prop straps, they are one use only, as you tighten them up they stretch slightly/form to the UJ, new ones come with new bolts too which are pre dosed with loctite and everything.