Setting up the suspension
Discussion
I have d Ducati 916 which has been previously owned by people who felt the suspension needed tweeking.
Now as some will know I don't feel at home on this bike yet and have been trying to get to grips with the handling (decided to keep it and persevere).....
I'm no expert rider in fact quite the opposit However I do know that my previous ZX6R (same year) was a much better handling and confidence inspiring bike... but I bought it new and never played with the supension without noting what it was to start with.
The short version of this is that I think my bike handles crap as the supension being played with and I want to go back to sandard settings, ride height (rear is too low why I think the front feels loose) etc...
Can anyone help, point me in the right direction or advise me......... I'd rather have a go myself as I will learn that way.
Thanks
Andy
Now as some will know I don't feel at home on this bike yet and have been trying to get to grips with the handling (decided to keep it and persevere).....
I'm no expert rider in fact quite the opposit However I do know that my previous ZX6R (same year) was a much better handling and confidence inspiring bike... but I bought it new and never played with the supension without noting what it was to start with.
The short version of this is that I think my bike handles crap as the supension being played with and I want to go back to sandard settings, ride height (rear is too low why I think the front feels loose) etc...
Can anyone help, point me in the right direction or advise me......... I'd rather have a go myself as I will learn that way.
Thanks
Andy
Andy,
Try this :
www.gostar-racing.com/information/motorcycle_suspension_set-up.htm
Or get a back-issue of Performance Bikes where they cover your year/model. The guides are good, if a little on the firm side for road use.
Try this :
www.gostar-racing.com/information/motorcycle_suspension_set-up.htm
Or get a back-issue of Performance Bikes where they cover your year/model. The guides are good, if a little on the firm side for road use.
s2ooz said:
I have a whole collection of performance bike back issues. its bound to be in there. I will dig it out at the weekend for your, and post monday.
I will shove in your ideal settings as well. either way I need to know exact model/year and your weight in stone.
Cheers.... details are:-
1997 916 biposta, with single seat, around 14-14.5 stone with clobber on.
I have a '98 916BP and would advise you start with the original factory settings it is 'firm' but on a reasonable road the handling is superb but could never be described as comfortable 
.
Start with the standard setup and change one thing at a time until you're happy - me after several trials I have always reverted to factory setup which seems pretty good for the road.
The owners manual that came with the bike gives the standard settings, if you don't have the manual let me know & I can copy the relevant pages to you.
Edited to add;
Will copy/post the page regarding standard setup when I get home and find the book - No way should a ZX6R handle better :donsflameproofsuit:
>> Edited by cazzo on Monday 6th October 10:59
. Start with the standard setup and change one thing at a time until you're happy - me after several trials I have always reverted to factory setup which seems pretty good for the road.
The owners manual that came with the bike gives the standard settings, if you don't have the manual let me know & I can copy the relevant pages to you.
Edited to add;
Will copy/post the page regarding standard setup when I get home and find the book - No way should a ZX6R handle better :donsflameproofsuit:
>> Edited by cazzo on Monday 6th October 10:59
Right here’s the details from the owners manual for 916/748 (1998 Biposto model) with Showa units.
Hope this helps.
SUSPENSION General description;
REAR SUSPENSION
Of the progressive type, thanks to a rocker arm
placed between frame and upper pivot point of
the shock absorber. Equipped with a shock
absorber enables the adjustment of rebound and
compression damping and spring preload. At the
bottom pivot point it is connected to a light-alloy
single-sided swingarm. The swingarm hinges on
a pivot pin passing through the frame and the
engine.
Make and type:
SHOWA GD052
Travel:
71 mm
FRONT SUSPENSION
Hydraulic upside-down fork with outer adjuster
for rebound, compression, and preload (for inner
springs of fork legs).
Make and type:
SHOWA GD051
Stanchion diameter:
43 mm
Travel along leg axis:
120 mm
Oil quantity per leg:
480 cc
Oil type:
SHOWA SS8 or A.T.F.
FRONT FORK ADJUSTERS
The front fork of your motorcycle has rebound
and compression damping adjusters.
This adjustment is done using the outer
adjusters:
A) (fig. 14.1) to adjust rebound damping;
B) (fig. 14.1) to adjust spring preload;
C) (fig. 14.2) to adjust compression damping.
Turn the adjuster (A) located on top of each fork
leg with a small slot screwdriver to adjust
rebound damping.
To turn the adjuster (C), insert a screwdriver into
the through hole provided in the wheel spindle
on the fork leg axis.
As you turn the adjusting screws (A and C), you
will hear them click. Each click identifies a
setting.
Turn the screw all the way in to set the hardest
damping. This will be your starting point.
Now turn the screw anticlockwise and listen for
the clicks that identify setting positions no. 1, 2
and so on.
Standard factory setting is as follows:
compression:
12th click;
rebound:
11th click.
The setting range is 14 clicks for rebound and 14
clicks for compression. The 14th click gives the
softest damping.
To change the preload of the spring inside each
fork leg, turn the adjusting nut (B) with a 22-mm
hexagon wrench.
Preload setting range (1, fig. 14.3) is from 25
to 10 mm.
Factory setting is 16mm.
IMPORTANT
Adjust both fork legs to same settings.
REAR SHOCK ABSORBER ADJUSTERS (fig. 15)
The shock absorber has outer adjusters that
enable you to adjust your motorcycle to the load.
The adjuster A located on the left side on the
connection holding the shock absorber to the
swingarm, controls the hydraulic brake during
rebound.
The adjuster B located on the expansion
reservoir is used to adjust compression damping.
Turn the adjusters (A and B) clockwise to
increase damping, anticlockwise to reduce it.
STANDARD setting:
turn the adjusters all the way in (clockwise) then
slacken them A-B: 1 turn.
Two ring nuts C, located on the top section of
the shock absorber are used to adjust the outer
spring preload.
To change spring preload, slacken the upper ring
nut with a common pin wrench. Then tighten or
slacken the lower ring nut to increase or
decrease spring preload as required.
Warning
The shock absorber is filled with gas under
pressure and may cause severe damage if taken
apart by unskilled persons.
When carrying a passenger and a load, set the
rear shock absorber spring to maximum preload
to improve motorcycle handling and keep safe
clearance from the ground. You may find that the
rebound damping needs readjusting.
MOTORCYCLE GEOMETRY
The geometry of your motorcycle is determined
at the factory based on several tests carried out
by our Engineers under most varied running
conditions. Adjusting motorcycle geometry is a
delicate operation and may endanger rider's
safety if carried out improperly. We recommend
you to take a datum measure (H, fig. 16.1) before
changing standard geometry.
To permit the rider to change motorcycle
geometry, so as to suit his/her riding style, the
position of the shock absorber may be changed
by means of the nuts (C, fig. 16.2) of the ball
joints (A, fig. 16.2) on the linkage (B, fig. 16.2).
After you have adjusted, tighten nuts (C).
NOTE
Be careful with the lower nut (C) as it has a
left-hand threading.
WARNING
The length of linkage (B) between the axes
of articulated joints (A) should never exceed 261 mm
Keep it shiny side up!
Hope this helps.
SUSPENSION General description;
REAR SUSPENSION
Of the progressive type, thanks to a rocker arm
placed between frame and upper pivot point of
the shock absorber. Equipped with a shock
absorber enables the adjustment of rebound and
compression damping and spring preload. At the
bottom pivot point it is connected to a light-alloy
single-sided swingarm. The swingarm hinges on
a pivot pin passing through the frame and the
engine.
Make and type:
SHOWA GD052
Travel:
71 mm
FRONT SUSPENSION
Hydraulic upside-down fork with outer adjuster
for rebound, compression, and preload (for inner
springs of fork legs).
Make and type:
SHOWA GD051
Stanchion diameter:
43 mm
Travel along leg axis:
120 mm
Oil quantity per leg:
480 cc
Oil type:
SHOWA SS8 or A.T.F.
FRONT FORK ADJUSTERS
The front fork of your motorcycle has rebound
and compression damping adjusters.
This adjustment is done using the outer
adjusters:
A) (fig. 14.1) to adjust rebound damping;
B) (fig. 14.1) to adjust spring preload;
C) (fig. 14.2) to adjust compression damping.
Turn the adjuster (A) located on top of each fork
leg with a small slot screwdriver to adjust
rebound damping.
To turn the adjuster (C), insert a screwdriver into
the through hole provided in the wheel spindle
on the fork leg axis.
As you turn the adjusting screws (A and C), you
will hear them click. Each click identifies a
setting.
Turn the screw all the way in to set the hardest
damping. This will be your starting point.
Now turn the screw anticlockwise and listen for
the clicks that identify setting positions no. 1, 2
and so on.
Standard factory setting is as follows:
compression:
12th click;
rebound:
11th click.
The setting range is 14 clicks for rebound and 14
clicks for compression. The 14th click gives the
softest damping.
To change the preload of the spring inside each
fork leg, turn the adjusting nut (B) with a 22-mm
hexagon wrench.
Preload setting range (1, fig. 14.3) is from 25
to 10 mm.
Factory setting is 16mm.
IMPORTANT
Adjust both fork legs to same settings.
REAR SHOCK ABSORBER ADJUSTERS (fig. 15)
The shock absorber has outer adjusters that
enable you to adjust your motorcycle to the load.
The adjuster A located on the left side on the
connection holding the shock absorber to the
swingarm, controls the hydraulic brake during
rebound.
The adjuster B located on the expansion
reservoir is used to adjust compression damping.
Turn the adjusters (A and B) clockwise to
increase damping, anticlockwise to reduce it.
STANDARD setting:
turn the adjusters all the way in (clockwise) then
slacken them A-B: 1 turn.
Two ring nuts C, located on the top section of
the shock absorber are used to adjust the outer
spring preload.
To change spring preload, slacken the upper ring
nut with a common pin wrench. Then tighten or
slacken the lower ring nut to increase or
decrease spring preload as required.
Warning
The shock absorber is filled with gas under
pressure and may cause severe damage if taken
apart by unskilled persons.
When carrying a passenger and a load, set the
rear shock absorber spring to maximum preload
to improve motorcycle handling and keep safe
clearance from the ground. You may find that the
rebound damping needs readjusting.
MOTORCYCLE GEOMETRY
The geometry of your motorcycle is determined
at the factory based on several tests carried out
by our Engineers under most varied running
conditions. Adjusting motorcycle geometry is a
delicate operation and may endanger rider's
safety if carried out improperly. We recommend
you to take a datum measure (H, fig. 16.1) before
changing standard geometry.
To permit the rider to change motorcycle
geometry, so as to suit his/her riding style, the
position of the shock absorber may be changed
by means of the nuts (C, fig. 16.2) of the ball
joints (A, fig. 16.2) on the linkage (B, fig. 16.2).
After you have adjusted, tighten nuts (C).
NOTE
Be careful with the lower nut (C) as it has a
left-hand threading.
WARNING
The length of linkage (B) between the axes
of articulated joints (A) should never exceed 261 mm
Keep it shiny side up!
It can also be worth paying a good suspension shop to set up your bike for you. I paid around £150-200 for a crate setup from www.setupengineering.com although I've heard good things about www.mctechnics.co.uk which may be closer to you.
My Speed Triple is now smooth as silk and both ends of the bike work together, it's a lovely feeling
My Speed Triple is now smooth as silk and both ends of the bike work together, it's a lovely feeling
Try Andy @ Kais or Justin @ WPS (northampton) or someone who helps the road race guys out or does BSB setup (put a post on bemsee.co.uk to see who comes up trumps) - not just go for someone who helps sunday riders & trackday riders to twiddle their pre-load adjusters and sells them ohlins spring kits....... and still manages to get that wrong.. IMHO...
Had a mate who met Mr. Campbell-Wilson some time ago for a set-up, however, upon checking some of the settings with an ex BSB technician, it was no surprise that Harleys were passing him (2001 blade), as the rear sag was non existant (amongst other things) and hence the bike was nervous as hell and totally non compliant. He also seemed able to bounce the bike a couple of times and come up with an 'ideal' setting. All sounds a bit voodoo to me.... Perhaps he'd been putting an ikea unit up before hand and just locked everything solid on the bike as well. LOL
fergus said:
it was no surprise that Harleys were passing him (2001 blade), as the rear sag was non existant (amongst other things) and hence the bike was nervous as hell and totally non compliant.
On the track, it's ideal to have a static sag of around 5 to 10mm. My SV650s is set up with 5mm currently and I wouldn't say that it's nervous on track. For the road though, you'll need 15-20mm.
For a good document on setting the sag and the SAG IS IMPORTANT! Go to www.cbrworld.net/FIREBLADE/suspension_set_up_words_by_andy_.htm
>> Edited by bennyboysvuk on Thursday 9th October 08:06
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