Chains and sprockets
Discussion
Now I think my chain and sprocket are about on their last legs, well teeth actually, but you know what I mean 
I've not got a great deal more movement to pull the back wheel back, but is there a definative way to check chain tension?
And the price my 'main dealer' wants for a chain and sprocket kit is scary, more than double the last owner had a bill for, so are these bits pretty universal across a number of bikes, and if so has anyone got any good contacts to get the bits from?
Bike by the way is that popular steed, the Cagiva SuperCity 125
I've not got a great deal more movement to pull the back wheel back, but is there a definative way to check chain tension?
And the price my 'main dealer' wants for a chain and sprocket kit is scary, more than double the last owner had a bill for, so are these bits pretty universal across a number of bikes, and if so has anyone got any good contacts to get the bits from?
Bike by the way is that popular steed, the Cagiva SuperCity 125
I normal put my bike up on the centre stand and measure down from one point on the swing arm down to the chain,remeber the lenght, then push the chain up and get the measurement between the first and second measurement.
Spin the wheel a bit and check again.
Do this a number of times around the lenght of the chain.
Mine(CBR)should be in between 15 and 25mm and would think this would be the same on most bikes,If your chain touches the swing arm its too loose and V dangerous.
I think the last chain and socket i brought was after doing an online search and came to about £100.
Try this site HERE ,
there should be a section on the right side called directory, which will give a load of options i.e parts and accesories.
click on one and it should give some online sites.
BB
Spin the wheel a bit and check again.
Do this a number of times around the lenght of the chain.
Mine(CBR)should be in between 15 and 25mm and would think this would be the same on most bikes,If your chain touches the swing arm its too loose and V dangerous.
I think the last chain and socket i brought was after doing an online search and came to about £100.
Try this site HERE ,
there should be a section on the right side called directory, which will give a load of options i.e parts and accesories.
click on one and it should give some online sites.
BB
sorry BB, but gotta disagree with the center-stand method - the chain is stretched further when the back wheel is on the ground and you're sitting on the bike.
The method I use is to place the bike on it's side-stand and then lean over from the opposite side of the bike (resting your weight on the seat) and checking the up-down movement then. Bit awkward at first but you'll get used to it. This way you are checking the slack in the chain as though you were sitting on the bike.
My Bandit12 is also supposed to have between 15mm and 25mm (about 1")
The method I use is to place the bike on it's side-stand and then lean over from the opposite side of the bike (resting your weight on the seat) and checking the up-down movement then. Bit awkward at first but you'll get used to it. This way you are checking the slack in the chain as though you were sitting on the bike.
My Bandit12 is also supposed to have between 15mm and 25mm (about 1")
Gerrard said: sorry BB, but gotta disagree with the center-stand method - the chain is stretched further when the back wheel is on the ground and you're sitting on the bike.
The method I use is to place the bike on it's side-stand and then lean over from the opposite side of the bike (resting your weight on the seat) and checking the up-down movement then. Bit awkward at first but you'll get used to it. This way you are checking the slack in the chain as though you were sitting on the bike.
My Bandit12 is also supposed to have between 15mm and 25mm (about 1")
I suppose Haynes and Honda havent done there homework then as just looked in there and they suggest it should be on centre stand.
In your theory prehaps it should be checked when accelerating really hard as this is when the chain is stretched as when you are accelarating
If Haynes and Owners Manual say centre/paddock stand i go with that as there must be a reason, Like the calculation of 15-25mm is dervived from there being no weight on the Chain.
BB
Whilst on this subject. The chain on my 916 has a tight spot, the sprockets are fine but I have to set the chain slacker than ideal so that when the tight spot passes over the sprocket it is not too tight - I think it was caused by poor lubing regime
but now I have fitted a scottoiler to do it for me.
Does anyone know if it is possible to 'fix' the tight spot in any way, or am I looking at a new chain/sprockets - having just spent £550 on a service and the insurance is due in a couple of weeks (and with 6 more points on licence than last year!) I could do without the expense.
but now I have fitted a scottoiler to do it for me. Does anyone know if it is possible to 'fix' the tight spot in any way, or am I looking at a new chain/sprockets - having just spent £550 on a service and the insurance is due in a couple of weeks (and with 6 more points on licence than last year!) I could do without the expense.
cazzo said: Whilst on this subject. The chain on my 916 has a tight spot, the sprockets are fine but I have to set the chain slacker than ideal so that when the tight spot passes over the sprocket it is not too tight - I think it was caused by poor lubing regime
Does anyone know if it is possible to 'fix' the tight spot in any way, or am I looking at a new chain/sprockets - having just spent £550 on a service and the insurance is due in a couple of weeks (and with 6 more points on licence than last year!) I could do without the expense.
no way of fixing them I know of, but if you find out, tell me!
Modern o-ring chains contain grease in the links to lube it internally and the grease is held in place by the rubber o-rings. When you lube the chain you are lubing the outside and the rubber o-rings to keep them in good condition. If you don't lube and it goes rusty or you lube but don't clean and you get a lube/dirt paste on the o-rings then you'll erode the rubber o-rings and the grease will wash out when you lube it and when you ride it. Therefore, since you have a tight spot caused by grease escaping in this way, you're pretty much b*ggered as I can't see any way of getting the grease back in the link and besides the internals of the link will probably be corroded to some extend now anyway causing the tight spot. If it's just a bit tight then I wouldn't worry about it and keep lubing and cleaning (or choose a lube that doesn't attract and accumulate dirt), if it's very stiff I'd get a new chain.
That's what I believe at any rate but its based on nothing other than my own opinion
Mark
PS. What lubes do people use? I've used the drip-type lubes in the past and hated them, too variable a flow based on air temp causing either excessive flow (accumulated dirt paste and sh*t all of the wheels/tyres) or too little flow (rusty chain). I now use castrol chain wax and have done for the last 12000 miles on the blade and found it doesn't attract crud, I have no tight spots and no rust. I reapply it every other morning (120 miles) and it takes me much less time than p*ssing around with the flow rate controller on the 'automatic' thing. I only have a side stand but just stick a bit of wood under the swing arm on the other side to raise the back wheel (balanced on side stand and wood) and then lube the chain - takes a minute at most.
That's what I believe at any rate but its based on nothing other than my own opinion
Mark
PS. What lubes do people use? I've used the drip-type lubes in the past and hated them, too variable a flow based on air temp causing either excessive flow (accumulated dirt paste and sh*t all of the wheels/tyres) or too little flow (rusty chain). I now use castrol chain wax and have done for the last 12000 miles on the blade and found it doesn't attract crud, I have no tight spots and no rust. I reapply it every other morning (120 miles) and it takes me much less time than p*ssing around with the flow rate controller on the 'automatic' thing. I only have a side stand but just stick a bit of wood under the swing arm on the other side to raise the back wheel (balanced on side stand and wood) and then lube the chain - takes a minute at most.
Dern,
Interesting points, especially as I've just got my first bike that has chaindrive.
I was recommended a chain wax (I bought Petulene's teflon version) and I'm impressed so far. It's designed for 'o' and non -'o' ringed chains and seems to be thin enough when sprayed on to penetrate the rollers. After a few seconds it sets and clings with no flinging, but it's white, so you have to be very accurate aiming or you end up with a right mess!
With reference to the original sprocket question, I have a formula somewhere to work out very high torque settings, based on length of aforementioned bodging bar v bodgers bodywieght! Think I nicked from John Muirs VW Beetle survival book.
Let me know if anyone wants it?
Last bit was in answer to the ZX10 sprocket question
>> Edited by cinqster on Tuesday 29th April 13:25
Interesting points, especially as I've just got my first bike that has chaindrive.
I was recommended a chain wax (I bought Petulene's teflon version) and I'm impressed so far. It's designed for 'o' and non -'o' ringed chains and seems to be thin enough when sprayed on to penetrate the rollers. After a few seconds it sets and clings with no flinging, but it's white, so you have to be very accurate aiming or you end up with a right mess!
With reference to the original sprocket question, I have a formula somewhere to work out very high torque settings, based on length of aforementioned bodging bar v bodgers bodywieght! Think I nicked from John Muirs VW Beetle survival book.
Let me know if anyone wants it?
Last bit was in answer to the ZX10 sprocket question
>> Edited by cinqster on Tuesday 29th April 13:25
I used to use sticky chainlube like PJ1, but it reduced chain life, possible because it was acting like grinding paste. I now use ordinary engine oil (currently 20-50 because I've got an old can of it in the shed) and the X-ring chain on my 750 teapot has lasted 18,000 miles so far. I lube every 100 miles or so, clean it with paraffin every 600 miles or so. Makes a horrible mess on the wheel, swingarm etc but that easily cleans off.
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