Crash Bungs

[Steve_T]

Hello all,

Have just bought a pair of crash bungs for my SV'. Instructions seem a bit vague to say the least. They say the bungs are swapped for the bolts that attach the engine to the frame. Didn't say which ones to swap and didn't have any pictures. I checked the SV owners website for tips. I found nothing useful, just a lengthy debate on whether the cheap bungs are as good as the expensive ones.

I called my dealer and asked whether there are torque settings for the engine bolts. I thought it'd be good to know before I launch into the job and br the bike up. The service guy just said do 'em up nice and tight, don't over do it and then just check 'em regularly.

Am I just being paranoid, or am I missing some information here.

Thanks,

Steve



>>> Edited by Steve_T on Monday 10th March 12:48

[DennisTheMenace]

Hi mate , Have a look through some bike mags and see if you can find a pic of any fitted if not contact the chaps that make yer bungs , They should be able to put you right

or..... kick your bike over see which part touches down and mount the bungs there

[EvoBarry]

Surely you attach the bungs to the bolts that are nearest to the part of the frame that sticks out the most....so it hits the ground first should you bin it?

And doing them up hand tight should suffice, just keep an eye on them for a few days to make sure?

[dimmadan]

I bought a pair of crash bungs for my Hornet. Its an easy job. Did you not get a longer set of bolts? If not then try with the existing ones. Its as simple as that. Just undo the engine mounting bolts, thread them through the crash bungs and replace bolt in same way, job done. Do one bolt at a time. You may need to prop engine.

[mrsd]

They go here:

Mine (996) came with advice to tighten them 'bloody tight' but I got the supplier to confirm the torque settings anyway.

Take into account that they minimise crash damage, rather than remove it alltogether, and checking the frame very thoroughly after you get out of hospital is still a good idea.
As well as crash bobbins have you considered nylon sliders on the spindles (and anything else that sticks out - clutch actuator ?) and non-folding pegs? They'll help keep the expensive bits off the tarmac and minimise the risk of the bike landing hard on your legs :hurtslikebuggery: non-folding pegs open up whole new areas of potential (impalement) pain though. It's also well worth tucking in and tidying up any loose wiring to minimise damage.
very important bit: Never use any bolts other than the ones in the kit !!! If they shear you're in deep sh1t.
edited to add: If you can't get a sensible answer from the suppliers send 'em back and contact R&G (address to follow) If they're from R&G 'phone up and they'll tell you.


>> Edited by mrsd on Tuesday 11th March 00:56

[Tony Hall]

Wish I had fitted them to my Sprint before I laid it down the other week, you know the feeling when you stop and your leg doesn't touch the ground like you thought it would......stood there, can't straighten it up, don't want to drop it,

"what should he do ladies & gentlemen, take the money or open the box"- Michael Miles (1964)

[Tony Hall]

Wish I had fitted them to my Sprint before I laid it down the other week, you know the feeling when you stop and your leg doesn't touch the ground like you thought it would......stood there, can't straighten it up, don't want to drop it,

"what should he do ladies & gentlemen, take the money or open the box"- Michael Miles (1964) or was it Hughie Green?

[mags]

Dunno if you have got the right info yet but a good descrption is given on www.sv650.org with pictures on a recent thread on the general BBS.

I fitted R&G's to my SVS a while ago and binned it last Sunday after some fcukwit in a car cut me up.
They basically go on the top engine mount in the piccy below, you replace the huge long bolt on the bike with the even longer bolt from R&G and add the ally cups and plastic sliders. If you have fairing lowers on your SVS (if its an S) you have to cut the fairing (shock-horror) but it's actually very simple. I used a little £15 dremel type tool from B&Q and just gradually cut away until the ally cup fitted in and then cut a little more for the slider.
Although they do save a certain amount of damage, dont expect miracles, I still did £3-400 of damage, but it could have been much more.

Mags

[mrsd]

They're really designed to save the frame and the block when you go sliding across the track, rather than protect the shiny bits when some tw@ in a Volvo knocks you off (or you drop the bike, which I've never done-honest ) but they still help.
R&G site address as promised and another shot of where they go:





>> Edited by mrsd on Friday 14th March 17:25