Weird clutch slip ktm1190
Discussion
I have started to get a bit of clutch slip on my 1190 adventure R, but it is different to how i have experienced it on any other bike. Accelerating in 4th 5th or 6th its perfect up unti 7 k revs, then it quickly slips up to 8k revs, drops back to 7 then accelerates normally. I cant provoke it to slip below 7k or above 8k no matter what i do, i can roll on in too high a gear and it doesn't care, but on first acceleation it always goes too quickly from 7-8 then drops back to 7 and acceletates normally through it without me coming off full throttle.
I have read the clutches in these are a bit weird and weak , and master or slave faults can look like bad friction material, but its strange how specific it is to a certain rev range.
The bike has 34k on it, and has had the master and slave cylinders replaced at some point in the past, with magura parts.
Do i just lay the bike on its side and pull the clutch and measure the plates? I dont want to change the oil again, its just been changed and 10w50 synthetic is too expensive to waste without good reason.
Where should I start with the diagnosis?
I have read the clutches in these are a bit weird and weak , and master or slave faults can look like bad friction material, but its strange how specific it is to a certain rev range.
The bike has 34k on it, and has had the master and slave cylinders replaced at some point in the past, with magura parts.
Do i just lay the bike on its side and pull the clutch and measure the plates? I dont want to change the oil again, its just been changed and 10w50 synthetic is too expensive to waste without good reason.
Where should I start with the diagnosis?
Ok, here's my guess/theory.
1190 peak torque is at 7500 rpm so that's where any weakness in the clutch will show.
Nice fresh oil will reduce friction enough for it to slip. It slips to 8000 for a bit which heats ups the plates and the oil on them. When that oil is hot it then grips again and pulls the revs back down to 7000.
So the clutch plates are pretty much worn out and the oil change has highlighted this.
1190 peak torque is at 7500 rpm so that's where any weakness in the clutch will show.
Nice fresh oil will reduce friction enough for it to slip. It slips to 8000 for a bit which heats ups the plates and the oil on them. When that oil is hot it then grips again and pulls the revs back down to 7000.
So the clutch plates are pretty much worn out and the oil change has highlighted this.
I had a clutch slip in my Enduro bike after I changed to fully synthetic oil, when I changed back to my usual oil, it was fine
It probably isn't the oil as such, it's that your clutch plates are worn and the better oil is showing that up
As others have said, measure the clutch plates, with my Enduro bike, I found there were two different thicknesses as standard and I could simply shuffle them around and buy two new thicker plates to make the stack the correct height
It probably isn't the oil as such, it's that your clutch plates are worn and the better oil is showing that up
As others have said, measure the clutch plates, with my Enduro bike, I found there were two different thicknesses as standard and I could simply shuffle them around and buy two new thicker plates to make the stack the correct height
archie456 said:
Ok, here's my guess/theory.
1190 peak torque is at 7500 rpm so that's where any weakness in the clutch will show.
Nice fresh oil will reduce friction enough for it to slip. It slips to 8000 for a bit which heats ups the plates and the oil on them. When that oil is hot it then grips again and pulls the revs back down to 7000.
So the clutch plates are pretty much worn out and the oil change has highlighted this.
I would go with this one, unfortunately.1190 peak torque is at 7500 rpm so that's where any weakness in the clutch will show.
Nice fresh oil will reduce friction enough for it to slip. It slips to 8000 for a bit which heats ups the plates and the oil on them. When that oil is hot it then grips again and pulls the revs back down to 7000.
So the clutch plates are pretty much worn out and the oil change has highlighted this.
trickywoo said:
Furry muff. When something changes just after other work it’s worth ruling out.
I noticed it wasnt 100% before the oil change but couldnt quite put my finger on it, but its gradually getting more noticeable and i have been paying attention to exactly when it happens.I might as well chuck a new set of plates in it, i was only wary as some people say the master or slave cylinders can cause this, and i didnt want to have to do the job twice. I might as well do the clutch and brake fluid at the same time since we are getting into the s
te weather i can sometimes go a week between rides might as well do all the wee jobs i wanted to do, remove the lowering spring, grease all the swingarm pivots etc.Any recommendations on clutch plates?
Edited by OldGermanHeaps on Sunday 1st December 12:47
Just another thought.
I once had a GSXR1100 with the original clutch fluid still in, and when it got warm the clutch would slip.
I changed the fluid and it stopped doing it. I can only think it could have been moisture boiling out of the fluid at the slave cylinder.
It might be worth trying?
I once had a GSXR1100 with the original clutch fluid still in, and when it got warm the clutch would slip.
I changed the fluid and it stopped doing it. I can only think it could have been moisture boiling out of the fluid at the slave cylinder.
It might be worth trying?
cliffords said:
One quick thought , when it slips is the Traction Control light flashing ? Or the Rev Limiter light ?
Nope. Definitely slip. The traction control light is on quite frequently as it has knobblies on, but the tc feels very different to slip.Does the same with mtc and abs off.
Its probably a f
ked clutch, i have been quite hard on it offroad, popping it to hop logs and slipping it a lot on the tight trails.The bike has a well documented service history and no sign of any clutch work so its probably time. EBC do a kit with frictions, steels, springs and a gasket for not much money. Or do i ask santa for a rekluse....
Edited by OldGermanHeaps on Monday 2nd December 09:26
archie456 said:
Ok, here's my guess/theory.
1190 peak torque is at 7500 rpm so that's where any weakness in the clutch will show.
Nice fresh oil will reduce friction enough for it to slip. It slips to 8000 for a bit which heats ups the plates and the oil on them. When that oil is hot it then grips again and pulls the revs back down to 7000.
So the clutch plates are pretty much worn out and the oil change has highlighted this.
Nailed it - chances are the old oil had just enough dissolved friction material in it to keep this from happening, changing it has removed that and now you have slip.1190 peak torque is at 7500 rpm so that's where any weakness in the clutch will show.
Nice fresh oil will reduce friction enough for it to slip. It slips to 8000 for a bit which heats ups the plates and the oil on them. When that oil is hot it then grips again and pulls the revs back down to 7000.
So the clutch plates are pretty much worn out and the oil change has highlighted this.
Frequently the same issue happens with leggy automatic gearboxes - the oil has suspended clutch particles that just about keeps them going, flush it out and you have slippy clutches.
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