New bike day Suzuki Vstrom 1000
Discussion
Well the day has almost arrived. At the age of 56 I passed my test. I then spent a little over a year learning to ride on a lovely Yamaha MT07. However one thing that was always an issue was that it was too small for me leading to a lot of pain on longer rides. I finally persuaded the banker(wife) to allow the purchase of a larger bike.
So tomorrow I pick it up and start the adventure all over again. I am so excited I am not sure I will sleep tonight.
So tomorrow I pick it up and start the adventure all over again. I am so excited I am not sure I will sleep tonight.
They're a brilliant choice and seriously underrated. Excellent power for the road unless you're a complete lunatic.
They don't have the excitement of the others but they almost never breakdown either.
One guy on a 1st gen got to 435,000 miles and counting with only a stator and wateepump impeller needing replacing.
Another did 200,000km in two years on a 1050 with only a thermostat failing.
They're the only "breakdowns" I could find online.
I put a Nitron R1 adv shock on mine and it transformed it.
They don't have the excitement of the others but they almost never breakdown either.
One guy on a 1st gen got to 435,000 miles and counting with only a stator and wateepump impeller needing replacing.
Another did 200,000km in two years on a 1050 with only a thermostat failing.
They're the only "breakdowns" I could find online.
I put a Nitron R1 adv shock on mine and it transformed it.
Well one week on and I have been out on it 3 times due to work etc. My initial impressions are that is is a great bike to ride but really need some practise with the clutch and gear changes. Very different from the MT07. Got a day out planned for tomorrow with a couple of friends so hopefully get in a few miles and get the tyres scrubbed in.. General handling I like . Seating position is good. So far so good. Here is to miles of smiles.
Hugo Stiglitz v2 said:
Is it easy to swap out the shock I.e. Just remove the rear wheel to enable untensioning to remove then fit?
I can strip and build a mountain bike in a couple of hours.
Pretty much yes. Manual tells you the entire exhaust needs removing but this isn't true. I can strip and build a mountain bike in a couple of hours.
This is what I wrote elsewhere.
1050 Shock change process
Whilst the instructions say that you need to remove the exhaust system to fit, this is not the case. The suspension linkage is in a VERY awkward positon to get any tools onto however.
What I needed (in aditon to standard tools) were as follows
A set of crows feet spanners (14mm or also 17mm if you want to remove the linkage)
A Torque wrench capable of up to 98NM if you decide to remove the linkage itself - this isn't necessary if you don't want to, as my bike is very low mileage (4k) I didn't bother and will wait for the service. Otherwise you'll just need one capable of 50NM to tighten up the shock nuts on reassembly. I'd strongly suggest a 3/4" one if available as space is incredibly tight
A breaker bar to crack off either of the nuts - again a 3/4" one is preferable due to space. I just about managed to get the shock nut off with a 1/2" one but couldn't get the linkage one off so left it.
A 36mm socket to remove the rear wheel nut
I did the whole thing with the use of an ABBA stand. It will be quite difficult to do so using just the centrestand as I found it much easier to remove the two rear most bolts holding the centrestand on to pivot it out of the way - which you obviously can't do if using the stand!
Once off the ground you will need to remove the rear wheel.
Then use the breaker bar and 14mm crows foot to crack off the lower shock mounting nut.
Remove the seat.
Unbolt and unsnap both plastic side panels beside the seat.
Use a 14mm socket, extension and breaker bar to crack off the top shock mount nut.
Unclip the rubber shock protection behind the shock and wedge it out of the way.
Remove both shock bolts.
You'll then be able to wriggle the OEM shock out of position and pull it throgh the left hand side of the subframe.
Aftermarket shock of your choice will then go back in the same way.
Shock nuts then go back with 50NM of Torque.
FYI to anyone who hasn't experienced quality suspension. You will end up with a VASTLY more comfortable and compliant ride. The difference can be seen by the massively thicker piston size compared to the oem allowing for much better damping. I chose not to go with hydraulic preload adjuster as I never take pillion and the manual adjuster is quite easy to get to.
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