Powder coating swingarm question

[tim0409]

Hi,

Having checked the weather forecast last week I decided to take my bike off the road for a week or two to give it a good clean, in addition to changing the coolant and replacing a corroded radiator pipe and the cush drives. This has now grown arms and legs, and I decided to replace the chain and sprockets, and check and grease the swingarm bearings.

Now that I have removed the swingarm it could really do with some attention as there are blotches and discolouration; I’ve never had anything recoated/power coated, so is this the best option? Do i cover up the various bolt/bearing holes, or do the company I use do that before the process? I could just give it a clean, but I think now that it’s off it is probably worth doing properly….

[trickywoo]

A good powder coater will do the masking themselves. It would be worth pointing it out but anyone coating and not knowing what should be masked would ring alarm bells.

[Biker9090]

I would be removing all ancilliary components and bearings (buy new bearings and seals).

Do some research on the powdercoating places. The two closest to me are fking useless. One advises a two week turnaround and it is ALWAYS double that or more. The other one hasn't got a bloody clue how to keep threads clean or stop spray going onto bearing surfaces.

It is a lot better than paint though. It'll certainly last longer. Use some frog tape or something when puting it back together though.

[Biker's Nemesis]

If you get anything powder coated on a bike its good practice to run a tap through the threads afterwards, if there is a bit of media left in there it's not uncommon for bolts to snap when being fitted or trying to take them out when it goes tight.

[Krikkit]

Biker's Nemesis said:

If you get anything powder coated on a bike its good practice to run a tap through the threads afterwards, if there is a bit of media left in there it's not uncommon for bolts to snap when being fitted or trying to take them out when it goes tight.

Definitely this - clean it up yourself for any leftover media, and gently re-tap the threads.

[tim0409]

Many thanks for the helpful replies.

[trolley2020]

We powder coat a lot of bits at work, remove as much as you can (bearings etc)

A good powder coater will prep the item we give most small stuff a fine cleaning in the blast cabinet then a degrease and a phosphate prep. if there are any threads these should always be taped or covered with a bung but also post coating a tap should be run through, quite a bit of the stuff we do has threads and the guys run a tap to clear them out.

[Caddyshack]

When I had mine done I had to remove the bearings but it makes sense to replace them anyway…top tip- they have an hk number printed on them, you can google that and buy them much cheaper that way.

The company I used had little plastic inserts for all of the threads. I did run a tap through them though.

[tim0409]

I took it into the powder coating company today and spoke to the owner who was really helpful. It looks like the finish is anodised so I need to choose a colour by Monday; given the difference between powder coating and anodising, I might go for a contrast but the chap showed me some samples and we agreed I would have a look at RAL charts. I am terrible at making decisions, not lease because I suffer from mild OCD

Thanks for the advice re the bearings; I now need to find somebody with a press!

[Caddyshack]

tim0409 said:

I took it into the powder coating company today and spoke to the owner who was really helpful. It looks like the finish is anodised so I need to choose a colour by Monday; given the difference between powder coating and anodising, I might go for a contrast but the chap showed me some samples and we agreed I would have a look at RAL charts. I am terrible at making decisions, not lease because I suffer from mild OCD

Thanks for the advice re the bearings; I now need to find somebody with a press!

Most swing arm bearings will come out with a bit of penetrating oil, heat the area and use a bearing punch - ou can buy these from PJME (who also sell bearings)

[Bob_Defly]

tim0409 said:

I took it into the powder coating company today and spoke to the owner who was really helpful. It looks like the finish is anodised so I need to choose a colour by Monday

My vote is for 90's purple or blue!

[MK3 Dan]

Late to the party and know you have already committed but I would be considering Cerakote - had so many items done with the stuff.

Mega thin, replicates anodising etc. No need to clean threads, doesn't effect tolerances.

Everyone else has covered the bearings!

[tim0409]

Bob_Defly said:

My vote is for 90's purple or blue!

One of the chaps on the XCountry forum restored his bike and painted it purple/blue with matching swingarm, but I am quite keen to keep it fairly standard. I had a look through the RAL charts and I think 9007 Grey aluminium might be a good option (I’m terrible at matching colours though….)

[tim0409]

I ended up going for a darker colour (Magnesium) to provide a bit of contrast with the rest of the frame. I now need tackle the bearing replacement…..for the open bearing (as previously mentioned) some heat and a threaded rod with sockets/bolts to press/pull it into position seems to be the best way if you don’t have the specific tools. The other bearing is a closed cup so is it just a case of lining it up and tapping it into place…?

[Biker's Nemesis]

tim0409 said:

Not lease because I suffer from mild OCD

Is this a bad time to mention the paint flaking off the subframe or the rear footrests?

The swing arm colour was a good choice, it looks good.

[TwinKam]

tim0409 said:

I ended up going for a darker colour (Magnesium) to provide a bit of contrast with the rest of the frame. I now need tackle the bearing replacement…..for the open bearing (as previously mentioned) some heat and a threaded rod with sockets/bolts to press/pull it into position seems to be the best way if you don’t have the specific tools. The other bearing is a closed cup so is it just a case of lining it up and tapping it into place…?

Looks nice but...why did you not remove the old bearings before it went to be coated, especially seeing as you mention that you are considering using heat during that process?
I'm surprised that the powder-coater was prepared to bake it with greasy bearings in situ.

[tim0409]

TwinKam said:

Looks nice but...why did you not remove the old bearings before it went to be coated, especially seeing as you mention that you are considering using heat during that process?
I'm surprised that the powder-coater was prepared to bake it with greasy bearings in situ.

That’s a good point. I should have removed the bearings beforehand but he said he would heat up and remove the grease before he powder coated, otherwise it would have been a trip back and I was being impatient.

[tim0409]

Biker's Nemesis said:

If you get anything powder coated on a bike its good practice to run a tap through the threads afterwards, if there is a bit of media left in there it's not uncommon for bolts to snap when being fitted or trying to take them out when it goes tight.

That was good advice, and I wished I’d followed it!

I was putting the chain tensioning bolts in the back of the swing arm and one of them went in half way before starting to feel really tight. I really struggled to get it out, but thankfully it came out eventually. I’ve never used a tap before; what should I buy to clean it out - it’s M8 with a standard pitch (1.25?)

Thanks.

[Caddyshack]

tim0409 said:

Biker's Nemesis said:

If you get anything powder coated on a bike its good practice to run a tap through the threads afterwards, if there is a bit of media left in there it's not uncommon for bolts to snap when being fitted or trying to take them out when it goes tight.

That was good advice, and I wished I’d followed it!

I was putting the chain tensioning bolts in the back of the swing arm and one of them went in half way before starting to feel really tight. I really struggled to get it out, but thankfully it came out eventually. I’ve never used a tap before; what should I buy to clean it out - it’s M8 with a standard pitch (1.25?)

Thanks.

I normally take the bolt out and take that to the tool shop, try a nut that fits and that tells you if it is an M8 x1.25 for instance. Remember when you tap to use a little lubrication and as soon as you feel it pick up turn back a little then go again.

[tim0409]

Caddyshack said:

I normally take the bolt out and take that to the tool shop, try a nut that fits and that tells you if it is an M8 x1.25 for instance. Remember when you tap to use a little lubrication and as soon as you feel it pick up turn back a little then go again.

Thanks for that. I just checked my email and I ordered replacement bolts a while back that fit and they are 1.25 pitch.