Garage/Workshop Tools & Tips

[Steve Bass]

So it seems like a good few people here like to tinker with a bike, be it keeping the daily steed in fettle or project bikes.

Taking that a bit further, maybe a thread dedicated to garage/workshop tools, tips and the like......

[Steve Bass]

Top tip #1

Fitting new grips? Tired of the ball ache getting them onto the throttle tube and bars?

Try this

Line the grip with zip ties and slide it onto the bar. Once the grip is in place, pull the zip ties out and bingo!
Obvs, make sure you have the locking end of the zip tie at the far end of the grip, furthest from the flared inside end of the tube.
I saw this and was sceptical but it actually works. Fitted new renthal soft rubber grips to the Ducati 1098 in minutes. No lube, no compressor, straight on and done...

Edited by Steve Bass on Sunday 5th November 23:34

[Bob_Defly]

I tried the zip tie method and found it a PITA, went with a dribble of petrol instead, worked a treat.

[Ilikemotorbikes]

Changing tyres manually - it can be a pain to try and seat the bead afterwards (particularly tubeless tyres)

Rather than spending on a compressor or taking the tyre to the local petrol station to use their compressor, use a ratchet strap around the circumference of the tyre (the treaded area) and put some pressure on it. It doesn't need loads of welly

With the above method I've seated a bead with a bicycle track style pump and just 20 PSI

I honestly didn't believe it would work when I read about it but I was pleasantly surprised when it did.

[Biker9090]

Some of it is just not worth doing yourself.

I can't help feeling that changing tyres is a poor economy for the sake of £12. Same with the odd task needing something like a press for removing a specific bearing. If you've got the space and want to spend the money then OK, but it's not for me when guy down the road will do it for £5.

[fred bloggs]

Biker9090 said:

Some of it is just not worth doing yourself.

I can't help feeling that changing tyres is a poor economy for the sake of £12. Same with the odd task needing something like a press for removing a specific bearing. If you've got the space and want to spend the money then OK, but it's not for me when guy down the road will do it for £5.

This guy down the road is not doing anything for £5.

[Biker's Nemesis]

Steve Bass said:

Top tip #1

Fitting new grips? Tired of the ball ache getting them onto the throttle tube and bars?

Try this

Line the grip with zip ties and slide it onto the bar. Once the grip is in place, pull the zip ties out and bingo!
Obvs, make sure you have the locking end of the zip tie at the far end of the grip, furthest from the flared inside end of the tube.
I saw this and was sceptical but it actually works. Fitted new renthal soft rubber grips to the Ducati 1098 in minutes. No lube, no compressor, straight on and done...

See also brake cleaner or hairspray

[Amused2death]

Biker's Nemesis said:

Steve Bass said:

Top tip #1

Fitting new grips? Tired of the ball ache getting them onto the throttle tube and bars?

Try this

Line the grip with zip ties and slide it onto the bar. Once the grip is in place, pull the zip ties out and bingo!
Obvs, make sure you have the locking end of the zip tie at the far end of the grip, furthest from the flared inside end of the tube.
I saw this and was sceptical but it actually works. Fitted new renthal soft rubber grips to the Ducati 1098 in minutes. No lube, no compressor, straight on and done...

See also brake cleaner or hairspray

Or if you've got a compressor and a nozzle get it started insert nozzle from headstock side and push. It worked for me getting grip puppies on.

[Biker9090]

fred bloggs said:

This guy down the road is not doing anything for £5.

Except he literally did remove and fit a bearing to a sprocket carrier for £5. He also removed a stuck bearing race on a swingarm for - you've guessed it - £5.....

[anonymous-user]

An impact drill is a must in any home mechanic setup. The number of rusted bolts I sheered off before getting on was getting out of hand.

The best workshop gloves are the cheap building supply ones from Screwfix. Save you hours of finger nail cleaning. Some black latex gloves for the oily bits helps.

A magnet on a stick style tool is embarrassingly useful. Father in law gave me one as a joke after I dropped a bolt into a hard to get place and struggled for hours, and its saved me many hours more.

Calliper seals, head stock bearings, suspension oils - do them every 5 years or so. Waiting for them to "go" just makes the bike feel like garbage for so long.

[Moulder]

To try and get back on track...

Even though a torque wrench is expensive, if you do work on your bike it is likely to pay for itself as some of the torque figures will be very different to what you might think.

Download the workshop manual so correct torque figures are known.

[Bob_Defly]

Moulder said:

To try and get back on track...

Even though a torque wrench is expensive, if you do work on your bike it is likely to pay for itself as some of the torque figures will be very different to what you might think.

Download the workshop manual so correct torque figures are known.

Also, it took me forever to get one small enough to do the lighter bolts, who knew that lb-ft converts easily into lb-in just by x12.. ? ha ha

Moral is, buy a good torque wrench with the force that you need in the middle of the tool's range, not at the ends, where it doesn't perform well.

[Tango13]

Bob_Defly said:

Moulder said:

To try and get back on track...

Even though a torque wrench is expensive, if you do work on your bike it is likely to pay for itself as some of the torque figures will be very different to what you might think.

Download the workshop manual so correct torque figures are known.

Also, it took me forever to get one small enough to do the lighter bolts, who knew that lb-ft converts easily into lb-in just by x12.. ? ha ha

Moral is, buy a good torque wrench with the force that you need in the middle of the tool's range, not at the ends, where it doesn't perform well.

How low can you go?

[mikey_b]

Bob_Defly said:

Also, it took me forever to get one small enough to do the lighter bolts, who knew that lb-ft converts easily into lb-in just by x12.. ? ha ha

Moral is, buy a good torque wrench with the force that you need in the middle of the tool's range, not at the ends, where it doesn't perform well.

I solved that by buying three matching ones from Teng, ranging (in total) from 5Nm to (I think) 250Nm.

I quite like buying tools

[mikey_b]

Biker9090 said:

Some of it is just not worth doing yourself.

I can't help feeling that changing tyres is a poor economy for the sake of £12. Same with the odd task needing something like a press for removing a specific bearing. If you've got the space and want to spend the money then OK, but it's not for me when guy down the road will do it for £5.

I've never found somewhere that will change tyres for buttons. They all either insist on supplying the tyre, or charge about £20 per wheel if you supply it. Very frustrating. If you have found someone that will do work like that for very little money then good for you, but look after that relationship.

[Discendo Discimus]

I like to do as much on my own bikes as possible, so I've accumulated a fair few tools over the years.

Essentials for me are:
Paddock stands
Torque Wrenches
JIS Screwdriver set for anything Japanese
Impact Gun
Chain breaker / fitting tool
Bike lift (bit of a luxury actually but bloody hell it's good)
Magnet on a stick

I'd love one of those electric socket guns that you see proper mechanics use, not an impact gun as such but looks like a smaller version they use to remove 6mm engine casing bolts etc. Not sure what I need to search for, maybe they're just using impact guns but they seem a little big for such small diameter screws and bolts.
Edit - You can see Craig using his on this video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eGeex17VJzM

Edited by Discendo Discimus on Monday 6th November 16:23

Edited by Discendo Discimus on Monday 6th November 16:26

[Merch131]

For Japanese bikes, JIS screwdrivers are a must, I prefer the Japanese make Vessel.

For Allen keys I would recommend WERA.

Teng are a good compromise between cost and quality for home use. Got a couple of their torque wrenches, which are excellent value.

Facom stuff is a bit more expensive, recently bought a set of their rachet ring spanners, should've got them years ago.

But the most useful thing I have in the garage is a sturdy workbench and the big vice bolted to it.

[Onelastattempt]

Discendo Discimus said:

I like to do as much on my own bikes as possible, so I've accumulated a fair few tools over the years.

Essentials for me are:
Paddock stands
Torque Wrenches
JIS Screwdriver set for anything Japanese
Impact Gun
Chain breaker / fitting tool
Bike lift (bit of a luxury actually but bloody hell it's good)
Magnet on a stick

I'd love one of those electric socket guns that you see proper mechanics use, not an impact gun as such but looks like a smaller version they use to remove 6mm engine casing bolts etc. Not sure what I need to search for, maybe they're just using impact guns but they seem a little big for such small diameter screws and bolts.
Edit - You can see Craig using his on this video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eGeex17VJzM

Edited by Discendo Discimus on Monday 6th November 16:23

Edited by Discendo Discimus on Monday 6th November 16:26

For 6mm engine bolts, airbox fasteners etc I crack them off about half to one turn with a socket wrench then use my battery drill to undo them completely, on replacement I screw them in by hand until at 3 threads at least are engaged then put my drill on the lowest torque setting and screw them in, then finish the job with a small torque wrench.

[Discendo Discimus]

Onelastattempt said:

Discendo Discimus said:

I like to do as much on my own bikes as possible, so I've accumulated a fair few tools over the years.

Essentials for me are:
Paddock stands
Torque Wrenches
JIS Screwdriver set for anything Japanese
Impact Gun
Chain breaker / fitting tool
Bike lift (bit of a luxury actually but bloody hell it's good)
Magnet on a stick

I'd love one of those electric socket guns that you see proper mechanics use, not an impact gun as such but looks like a smaller version they use to remove 6mm engine casing bolts etc. Not sure what I need to search for, maybe they're just using impact guns but they seem a little big for such small diameter screws and bolts.
Edit - You can see Craig using his on this video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eGeex17VJzM

Edited by Discendo Discimus on Monday 6th November 16:23

Edited by Discendo Discimus on Monday 6th November 16:26

For 6mm engine bolts, airbox fasteners etc I crack them off about half to one turn with a socket wrench then use my battery drill to undo them completely, on replacement I screw them in by hand until at 3 threads at least are engaged then put my drill on the lowest torque setting and screw them in, then finish the job with a small torque wrench.

Yeah that's what I've been doing, but thought I had the wrong tool as none of the mechanics you see in the real world use a battery drill. I'm sure there's no difference.

[KTMsm]

I like to do things myself because things always break late at night or on a Sunday and anyone who's good typically has a 2 week wait etc

Top tip - the cheap (sub £700) bike lifts are rubbish, they don't lift very high and they aren't very stable - medical beds are available for around £100 and are far better made, obviously you have to add ply etc as a workbench

The only drawback is you need a ramp as they are circa 12" high in their lowest position but they lift about a foot higher and are far more stable

IIRC SWL is 250kg on mine so not suitable for the biggest bikes