Discussion
What tools would you say are needed to do basic stuff on a bike? I'm talking brake pads/disc, oil changes. I don't think I'll be doing valve clearance stuff.
I've got a Halfords Advanced tool set with sockets in. So far it has had everything I've needed for an oil change. Oh and a torque wrench. I'm going to do brake pads next and final drive oil change. By the looks of it I've got everything in the tool set, but anything to add to make things a little easier?
I've got a Halfords Advanced tool set with sockets in. So far it has had everything I've needed for an oil change. Oh and a torque wrench. I'm going to do brake pads next and final drive oil change. By the looks of it I've got everything in the tool set, but anything to add to make things a little easier?
If the bike has any crosshead bolts it is likely that the usual Philips-head tools will not fit properly,
as the bolts have a "Japanese Industrial Standard" crosshead.
JIS bits, sockets or screwdrivers were a rarity for decades ( outside of Japan ) ,
but are available in many tool shops now, worth the investment.
as the bolts have a "Japanese Industrial Standard" crosshead.
JIS bits, sockets or screwdrivers were a rarity for decades ( outside of Japan ) ,
but are available in many tool shops now, worth the investment.
Consumables; brake cleaner, copper grease, red rubber grease for the sliding pins. A syringe makes it quicker to remove most of the old brake fluid from the reservoir, just dont get air in the lines. A proper oil catching bowl with a spout or lip makes it easier to get rid of the old oil. And a couple of different sized funnels for putting in the new oil. Have you got something to remove the oil filter in case its over-tight, those proper sized socket cups are the best, I just bought one of those kits with several different sizes in so you should covered for different makes in the future.
Edited by SilverB on Sunday 14th August 06:51
Best tool I have in my garage for the bikes is the actual manufacturer service manual.
I also have a decent torque wrench, breaker bar, hex heads and T handles.
Brake piston removal kit.
Oil filter cups - bike specific.
JIS screwdrivers - far better for Japanese bikes.
Various oils/grease/sprays etc as mentioned in the service manual.
Top tip for final drive oil - make sure you can remove the fill bolt before removing the lower one..
I have more specific tools for things like suspension fork work, but you can still mcguyver things up.
Having an ultrasonic cleaner and wire wheel also helps with older bikes… everything I take off get cleaned, checked, probably painted before going back on.
Not sure if you want to go that far, Takes me ages to do anything!
And lastly - a decent stand will help out and your knees and back will thank you!
I also have a decent torque wrench, breaker bar, hex heads and T handles.
Brake piston removal kit.
Oil filter cups - bike specific.
JIS screwdrivers - far better for Japanese bikes.
Various oils/grease/sprays etc as mentioned in the service manual.
Top tip for final drive oil - make sure you can remove the fill bolt before removing the lower one..
I have more specific tools for things like suspension fork work, but you can still mcguyver things up.
Having an ultrasonic cleaner and wire wheel also helps with older bikes… everything I take off get cleaned, checked, probably painted before going back on.
Not sure if you want to go that far, Takes me ages to do anything!
And lastly - a decent stand will help out and your knees and back will thank you!
One of the things I've fount to be very useful is a set of allen headed sockets, so you can use a ratchet on allen keys. Makes moving the bigger ones far easier, it's probably the most used thing I have on bikes.
Ones like these
https://www.halfords.com/tools/hand-tools/socket-sets/sealey-9pc-hex-key-socket-bit-set-3%2F8in-sq-453406.html?cm_mmc=Google+PLA-_-Motoring%3ETools%3EHand+Tools%3ESocket+Sets-_-Motoring%3ETools%3EHand+Tools%3ESocket+Sets-_-453406&istCompanyId=b8708c57-7a02-4cf6-b2c0-dc36b54a327e&istFeedId=62b447cf-331e-4fec-a47a-9985ff72d404&istItemId=iaixxlmww&istBid=t&_$ja=tsid:94971
If you're doing brakes a vacuum bleeder makes life quite a bit nicer, mines a mity-vac. I've previously found that changing brake lines was a total faff but with this it's a 10 minute thing.
Ones like these
https://www.halfords.com/tools/hand-tools/socket-sets/sealey-9pc-hex-key-socket-bit-set-3%2F8in-sq-453406.html?cm_mmc=Google+PLA-_-Motoring%3ETools%3EHand+Tools%3ESocket+Sets-_-Motoring%3ETools%3EHand+Tools%3ESocket+Sets-_-453406&istCompanyId=b8708c57-7a02-4cf6-b2c0-dc36b54a327e&istFeedId=62b447cf-331e-4fec-a47a-9985ff72d404&istItemId=iaixxlmww&istBid=t&_$ja=tsid:94971
If you're doing brakes a vacuum bleeder makes life quite a bit nicer, mines a mity-vac. I've previously found that changing brake lines was a total faff but with this it's a 10 minute thing.
Edited by Speed addicted on Sunday 14th August 08:24
Large stock of decent rags, including old towels & a pack of microfiber cloths.
First aid kit always useful as you WILL skin your knuckles.
Bungees to hold the brake caliper whilst servicing. Various hammers & a plastic mallet. Stanley knife with spare blades. Rechargeable super bright inspection lamp.
First aid kit always useful as you WILL skin your knuckles.
Bungees to hold the brake caliper whilst servicing. Various hammers & a plastic mallet. Stanley knife with spare blades. Rechargeable super bright inspection lamp.
Benni said:
If the bike has any crosshead bolts it is likely that the usual Philips-head tools will not fit properly,
as the bolts have a "Japanese Industrial Standard" crosshead.
JIS bits, sockets or screwdrivers were a rarity for decades ( outside of Japan ) ,
but are available in many tool shops now, worth the investment.
Myth.as the bolts have a "Japanese Industrial Standard" crosshead.
JIS bits, sockets or screwdrivers were a rarity for decades ( outside of Japan ) ,
but are available in many tool shops now, worth the investment.
The only time I have regularly seen JIS is on the front brake reservoir cap screws, no idea why.
Most fasteners on a modern bike will be pozidriv.
Pozidriv will also fit JIS without causing any damage (unless you are totally hamfisted).
Rubin215 said:
Benni said:
If the bike has any crosshead bolts it is likely that the usual Philips-head tools will not fit properly,
as the bolts have a "Japanese Industrial Standard" crosshead.
JIS bits, sockets or screwdrivers were a rarity for decades ( outside of Japan ) ,
but are available in many tool shops now, worth the investment.
Myth.as the bolts have a "Japanese Industrial Standard" crosshead.
JIS bits, sockets or screwdrivers were a rarity for decades ( outside of Japan ) ,
but are available in many tool shops now, worth the investment.
The only time I have regularly seen JIS is on the front brake reservoir cap screws, no idea why.
Most fasteners on a modern bike will be pozidriv.
Pozidriv will also fit JIS without causing any damage (unless you are totally hamfisted).
https://bike.bikegremlin.com/10583/phillips-vs-jis...
"JIS screwdriver holds well both JIS and Phillips screws.
While a Phillips screwdriver easily slips out of Phillips screws, and does even worse with JIS screws."
"no other screwdriver will fit Pozidriv/Supadriv screws – it will slip out and damage them"
Rubin215 said:
Myth.
The only time I have regularly seen JIS is on the front brake reservoir cap screws, no idea why.
Most fasteners on a modern bike will be pozidriv.
Pozidriv will also fit JIS without causing any damage (unless you are totally hamfisted).
Rubin, I respect your opinions in many matters but I think you’re wrong in this one. JIS screws all over the place on my (admittedly older) bikes, most of which have been mullered by hamfiated previous owners using Phillips drivers on them. JIS drivers are a must. The only time I’ve seen pozidrive on a bike is when it’s been fitted by one of the aforementioned hamfisted clots. The only time I have regularly seen JIS is on the front brake reservoir cap screws, no idea why.
Most fasteners on a modern bike will be pozidriv.
Pozidriv will also fit JIS without causing any damage (unless you are totally hamfisted).
the cueball said:
Best tool I have in my garage for the bikes is the actual manufacturer service manual.
This! It'll tell you everything you need to know.Also, a good set of Allen keys, 3/8" sockets and torque wrench, 1/4" socket set, if it's a Japanese bike then JIS screwdrivers if you have them on the bike (look for a little dot on the head)
Don't just slap grease on things either - check the manual and make sure you use it where directed, and not where it isn't (copper slip on brake pads for example).
There's some cheapish tools you can manage without but make life so much easier.
A spring puller is a few pounds but once you've had one you wish you'd got one years ago.
A telescopic magnet (a pen size one) makes picking up fasteners from awkward places quicker.
For oil changes I prefer oil filter pliers (cheap eBay ones are fine) as they fit anything as long as there's access to turn them.
An impact driver (the one you hit with a hammer, not a power one) isn't used much, but when you need it you really need it. I often use mine for undoing tight fasteners as it's easier to grip than a screw driver. Better to use the right tool first time rather than destroy a fastener and have to drill it out.
A small magnetic parts tray is £3/4 but will save you loosing parts - we've all put them in pots we've then kicked over, hence the need for the magnetic one!
Paddock stands are invaluable as it's so much easier to work on an upright bike than one lent over - Facebook market place will give bargains if you're quick. If feeling a bit "spendy" then Abba stands are brilliant.
An LED head torch is really useful, they light where you're looking and you don't need another hand like you do with LED lamps.
A big piece of cardboard/hardboard makes a big difference when laying/kneeling on a cold garage floor.
A cup of tea never goes amiss.....
A spring puller is a few pounds but once you've had one you wish you'd got one years ago.
A telescopic magnet (a pen size one) makes picking up fasteners from awkward places quicker.
For oil changes I prefer oil filter pliers (cheap eBay ones are fine) as they fit anything as long as there's access to turn them.
An impact driver (the one you hit with a hammer, not a power one) isn't used much, but when you need it you really need it. I often use mine for undoing tight fasteners as it's easier to grip than a screw driver. Better to use the right tool first time rather than destroy a fastener and have to drill it out.
A small magnetic parts tray is £3/4 but will save you loosing parts - we've all put them in pots we've then kicked over, hence the need for the magnetic one!
Paddock stands are invaluable as it's so much easier to work on an upright bike than one lent over - Facebook market place will give bargains if you're quick. If feeling a bit "spendy" then Abba stands are brilliant.
An LED head torch is really useful, they light where you're looking and you don't need another hand like you do with LED lamps.
A big piece of cardboard/hardboard makes a big difference when laying/kneeling on a cold garage floor.
A cup of tea never goes amiss.....
A note on the torque wrench, it will probably have 2 scales Nm and ftlb - worth checking which one in use as mine the digits are small and the intervals are odd (4Nm) The Nm and ftlb are similar number but ftlb is lower and you don't want to under torque stuff. Also wind it off after use so the spring does not take a set and go lower over time. Would also recommend a pair of those work trousers with pockets for knee protectors - make working on the floor a lot more pleasurable.
Some sort of stand!. A basic paddock stand will get the back end off the group and hold the bike upright, but if you want to take the front wheel off you'd also need a front paddock stand.
Lots of people love Abba stands which lift from the center of the bike, and you can use a ratchet strap or a jack to lift the front. For non-sports bikes where weight/clearance isn't much of an issue, a centre stand makes life so much easier, you can easily use a jack, or hang something heavy on the back, to get the front end off the ground.
Lots of people love Abba stands which lift from the center of the bike, and you can use a ratchet strap or a jack to lift the front. For non-sports bikes where weight/clearance isn't much of an issue, a centre stand makes life so much easier, you can easily use a jack, or hang something heavy on the back, to get the front end off the ground.
Benni said:
If the bike has any crosshead bolts it is likely that the usual Philips-head tools will not fit properly,
as the bolts have a "Japanese Industrial Standard" crosshead.
JIS bits, sockets or screwdrivers were a rarity for decades ( outside of Japan ) ,
but are available in many tool shops now, worth the investment.
I've got a set of Vessel JIS screwdrivers. Worth their weight in gold. Good on old british bikes too as being a bit shallower the "wings" bite in properly before the tip hits bottom. as the bolts have a "Japanese Industrial Standard" crosshead.
JIS bits, sockets or screwdrivers were a rarity for decades ( outside of Japan ) ,
but are available in many tool shops now, worth the investment.
Not so much a tool recommendation, there are numerous good pieces of advice above, but some tool use advice:
Use 6 sided sockets where you can. Especially on tight bolts, you'll be surprised how easily a 12 pointed socket slips when a 6 sided one doesn't.
Learn how to use any tool properly and take your time doing so. 2 hours of drilling and tapping a bolt will feel like hell when you could've walked across the garage, grabbed an extension, held the ratchet properly and had the bolt out in a minute.
Buy quality tools for the ones you use the most. Halfords Advanced are surprisingly good tools, keep that receipt for the lifetime warranty too. My rule of thumb is buy an inexpensive one first and when it breaks have a think about how much you used it, then buy accordingly. If you used it on every job, buy a good one. If you used it once in a blue moon, buy another cheap one. Don't be fooled into Snap-On everything because it's "better".
A stool. Good god, buy a stool. Being able to sit at a good height on something comfortable when appropriate is bliss compared to sitting on the floor. Same goes for kneeling pads and floor mats. Lying on those cheap sponge floor mats is so much better than a rock hard floor.
And remember, if you don't know how much torque to use, tighten it until it snaps then back it off half a turn.
Use 6 sided sockets where you can. Especially on tight bolts, you'll be surprised how easily a 12 pointed socket slips when a 6 sided one doesn't.
Learn how to use any tool properly and take your time doing so. 2 hours of drilling and tapping a bolt will feel like hell when you could've walked across the garage, grabbed an extension, held the ratchet properly and had the bolt out in a minute.
Buy quality tools for the ones you use the most. Halfords Advanced are surprisingly good tools, keep that receipt for the lifetime warranty too. My rule of thumb is buy an inexpensive one first and when it breaks have a think about how much you used it, then buy accordingly. If you used it on every job, buy a good one. If you used it once in a blue moon, buy another cheap one. Don't be fooled into Snap-On everything because it's "better".
A stool. Good god, buy a stool. Being able to sit at a good height on something comfortable when appropriate is bliss compared to sitting on the floor. Same goes for kneeling pads and floor mats. Lying on those cheap sponge floor mats is so much better than a rock hard floor.
And remember, if you don't know how much torque to use, tighten it until it snaps then back it off half a turn.
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