Running indicators from a capacitor instead of battery...
Discussion
Long story short I have an ex trials bike which I have wired DC indicators to on a floating loom, unconnected to the original AC one for engine, lights, etc.
I have fitted a small battery pack under the seat which I have to recharge periodically. There is no room for a traditional motorbike battery.
The stator on the bike is quite low output so am thinking I'll need a H/O one with a DC RR taken from it, but then no room for a battery to store the power in.
I've been told I can use a capacitor and that it works like a small battery, has anyone got any experience of doing this?
I have fitted a small battery pack under the seat which I have to recharge periodically. There is no room for a traditional motorbike battery.
The stator on the bike is quite low output so am thinking I'll need a H/O one with a DC RR taken from it, but then no room for a battery to store the power in.
I've been told I can use a capacitor and that it works like a small battery, has anyone got any experience of doing this?
It's basically not trivial.
If it runs say a 35W headlight, you could probably add on a couple of low power LED indicators with them making the headlight go dim/bright as they flashed.
The problem is, some of those simple AC bike systems have quite high voltages unloaded, so you have to choose the right regulator.
Some of the readily available regulators are 'shunt mode' and work by dumping any excess volts, which can give the stator a hard time.
Some others don't work without a battery.
Some 'flywheel magneto and lights' systems are more subtle and complex than first meets the eye!
A small Li-Ion battery pack should run enough seconds of LED indicators for a month's riding? Simpler to just do that?
If it runs say a 35W headlight, you could probably add on a couple of low power LED indicators with them making the headlight go dim/bright as they flashed.
The problem is, some of those simple AC bike systems have quite high voltages unloaded, so you have to choose the right regulator.
Some of the readily available regulators are 'shunt mode' and work by dumping any excess volts, which can give the stator a hard time.
Some others don't work without a battery.
Some 'flywheel magneto and lights' systems are more subtle and complex than first meets the eye!
A small Li-Ion battery pack should run enough seconds of LED indicators for a month's riding? Simpler to just do that?
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