2007 R1200R potential shaft problem?
Discussion
Hello all,
I'm considering an early R1200R. I've read about fuel strip, fuel tank corrosion problems and some isolated shaft drive failures. I cover in excess of 10k miles per year on my bike, so reliability is on top of the list. Could someone shed light on possible shaft drive issues for me please or anything else that I should look out for on these?
Best,
Pascal
I'm considering an early R1200R. I've read about fuel strip, fuel tank corrosion problems and some isolated shaft drive failures. I cover in excess of 10k miles per year on my bike, so reliability is on top of the list. Could someone shed light on possible shaft drive issues for me please or anything else that I should look out for on these?
Best,
Pascal
It's more of a question of when rather than if you'll have an issue.
BMW's are the polar opposite of what you need if you want a reliable bike. Go on literally any forum or owners group on Facebook and compare the issues against the competitor bike of one of the big 4 or even triumph.
That era, whilst not having servo assist ABS were notorious for motor failure (they changed something with the brushes in around 2014).
You'll also likely suffer extremely bad corrosion. They're the worst brand I've ever come across for it. Even older Suzukis handle salt roads better.
Oh, and to change the clutch the bike needs to be split in two.
If you want an uber competent and reliable bike get a VFR - it's exactly what I did and couldn't be happier to see the back of BMW.
BMW's are the polar opposite of what you need if you want a reliable bike. Go on literally any forum or owners group on Facebook and compare the issues against the competitor bike of one of the big 4 or even triumph.
That era, whilst not having servo assist ABS were notorious for motor failure (they changed something with the brushes in around 2014).
You'll also likely suffer extremely bad corrosion. They're the worst brand I've ever come across for it. Even older Suzukis handle salt roads better.
Oh, and to change the clutch the bike needs to be split in two.
If you want an uber competent and reliable bike get a VFR - it's exactly what I did and couldn't be happier to see the back of BMW.
menor95 said:
Hello all,
I'm considering an early R1200R. I've read about fuel strip, fuel tank corrosion problems and some isolated shaft drive failures. I cover in excess of 10k miles per year on my bike, so reliability is on top of the list. Could someone shed light on possible shaft drive issues for me please or anything else that I should look out for on these?
Best,
Pascal
You buy a bmw if you want the best you buy a Honda if you want the best reliability. I'm considering an early R1200R. I've read about fuel strip, fuel tank corrosion problems and some isolated shaft drive failures. I cover in excess of 10k miles per year on my bike, so reliability is on top of the list. Could someone shed light on possible shaft drive issues for me please or anything else that I should look out for on these?
Best,
Pascal
Bmw do have issues but go in with eyes open and be prepared to spend and you’ll be fine. I’m not sure they are going to leave you stuck at the side of the road but BMW’s will for sure be high maintenance.
Lovely looking bike with a nice character. Trust me, on a bike used for high miles reliability is FAR more important than a few toys/gimmicks.
The ESA (even when upgraded) on my K1300 is nowhere near as good as the K Tech/Nitron setup I have on my VFR1200F.
Do I miss the TC and CC? Yes, sometimes. But I prefer to know ill get where I need to go on my own without the need of a recovery truck.
The ESA (even when upgraded) on my K1300 is nowhere near as good as the K Tech/Nitron setup I have on my VFR1200F.
Do I miss the TC and CC? Yes, sometimes. But I prefer to know ill get where I need to go on my own without the need of a recovery truck.
Biker9090 said:
It's more of a question of when rather than if you'll have an issue.
BMW's are the polar opposite of what you need if you want a reliable bike. Go on literally any forum or owners group on Facebook and compare the issues against the competitor bike of one of the big 4 or even triumph.
That era, whilst not having servo assist ABS were notorious for motor failure (they changed something with the brushes in around 2014).
You'll also likely suffer extremely bad corrosion. They're the worst brand I've ever come across for it. Even older Suzukis handle salt roads better.
Oh, and to change the clutch the bike needs to be split in two.
If you want an uber competent and reliable bike get a VFR - it's exactly what I did and couldn't be happier to see the back of BMW.
Like all things, experiences can be different.BMW's are the polar opposite of what you need if you want a reliable bike. Go on literally any forum or owners group on Facebook and compare the issues against the competitor bike of one of the big 4 or even triumph.
That era, whilst not having servo assist ABS were notorious for motor failure (they changed something with the brushes in around 2014).
You'll also likely suffer extremely bad corrosion. They're the worst brand I've ever come across for it. Even older Suzukis handle salt roads better.
Oh, and to change the clutch the bike needs to be split in two.
If you want an uber competent and reliable bike get a VFR - it's exactly what I did and couldn't be happier to see the back of BMW.
I ran a K1300S for 56k miles then sold it to one of the Old Gits, who sometimes appears on here, who still has it (approaching 80k I believe). The biggest issue it has had was the requirement to replace the shocks!
I replaced the first K1300S with a secnd that ran without issue for 50k miles until Banbi killed it off!
The part of this that I am finding difficult to comprehend is why would you look at a 15 year old bike to commute 10,000 miles on annually ? Thats a big ask for an old bike imho. Yes you do read of 90,000 mile VFR's etc but the chances are a 2007 BMW R1200R will already have 50,000 + on the odo already.
10,000 miles is roughly 200 miles per week or 2 x 20 miles commutes for 5 days. 20 miles is not far. I would be looking at a Yamaha T Max or similar for this role.
10,000 miles is roughly 200 miles per week or 2 x 20 miles commutes for 5 days. 20 miles is not far. I would be looking at a Yamaha T Max or similar for this role.
black-k1 said:
Like all things, experiences can be different.
I ran a K1300S for 56k miles then sold it to one of the Old Gits, who sometimes appears on here, who still has it (approaching 80k I believe). The biggest issue it has had was the requirement to replace the shocks!
I replaced the first K1300S with a secnd that ran without issue for 50k miles until Banbi killed it off!
Difference is compare the figures from consumer reports/forums/owners pages and BMW are consistently ranked at the bottom. I know a fair few people with a K1300 and not a single one hasn't had a serious issue including but not limited to final drive failure, radiator rotting, ball joints, clutch exploding, hot start problem, coils, Injectors, rotting exhaust, failed esa, switchgear and serious corrosion.I ran a K1300S for 56k miles then sold it to one of the Old Gits, who sometimes appears on here, who still has it (approaching 80k I believe). The biggest issue it has had was the requirement to replace the shocks!
I replaced the first K1300S with a secnd that ran without issue for 50k miles until Banbi killed it off!
I'm not saying you haven't - but you're one of the first I've ever heard of to have had no issues. As an aside I can count on one hand the amount of failures I've seen stopping the VFR1200. Personally, I cant put up with the risk of owning a BMW ever again.
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