BMW bork factor
Discussion
Thinking of getting an old tourer bmw. The r1100rt looks perfect for what I want but as it’ll be a cheap bike I’m a bit worried about potential big cost failures like abs, clutch etc.
Are they compete money pits or am I just worrying too much.
Other option would be something like a old fazer with a big screen but it’s not really what I want. I need to be upright.
Are they compete money pits or am I just worrying too much.
Other option would be something like a old fazer with a big screen but it’s not really what I want. I need to be upright.
Clutch is a lot of work compared with most chain drive bikes. That's inevitable because you have to split the gearbox from the engine.
Worst case, ABS can just be removed, I believe, and the master cylinders connected directly to the calipers with new hoses.
Some years (R1150?) had a brake booster pump. I think they called it integral ABS? I believe that can also be removed.
Have a search. You'll probably find videos, and info on forums.
Worst case, ABS can just be removed, I believe, and the master cylinders connected directly to the calipers with new hoses.
Some years (R1150?) had a brake booster pump. I think they called it integral ABS? I believe that can also be removed.
Have a search. You'll probably find videos, and info on forums.
As above, the clutch can be a challenge. Not specifically a feature of the shaft drive but a result of the crank running along the frame rather than the much more common configuration of across the frame. The shaft drive just makes the job even more difficult.
The ABS can be an issue but as has been said, this can be removed, and there are work arounds and non-BMW approved approaches to fixes that are not hugely expensive but have been used by many owners.
The switch gear was an issue but I would think that most have been changed by now. Something to ask when purchasing.
The other issue is that the UJs in the shaft are not on the service schedule. A bit of grease periodically will avoid expensive repairs when one/both go.
These are solid bikes with very strong (if a little dull) engines. The suspension on BMWs of that age is all a little too soft IMHO and age is not likely to have made that any better.
They are very good at doing what they were designed to do, which is to transport 2 people, plus their luggage, in comfort, across countries at a reasonable pace while still being more fun than they deserve to be on twisting A and B roads.
The ABS can be an issue but as has been said, this can be removed, and there are work arounds and non-BMW approved approaches to fixes that are not hugely expensive but have been used by many owners.
The switch gear was an issue but I would think that most have been changed by now. Something to ask when purchasing.
The other issue is that the UJs in the shaft are not on the service schedule. A bit of grease periodically will avoid expensive repairs when one/both go.
These are solid bikes with very strong (if a little dull) engines. The suspension on BMWs of that age is all a little too soft IMHO and age is not likely to have made that any better.
They are very good at doing what they were designed to do, which is to transport 2 people, plus their luggage, in comfort, across countries at a reasonable pace while still being more fun than they deserve to be on twisting A and B roads.
I almost bought a R1100RS a few years ago but ended up with the CBF500 as it was half the price and I didn't fancy having to do a clutch change on the BMW.
I believe that sort of age BMW are relatively solid - certainly much better than the 2000's models.
Avoid like the absolute plague going for anything with servo assist ABS (made around 2002 to 2007). They can and do fail and you will loose something like 90% braking power - people have allegedly been killed by it, in Germany I believe there was some sort of class action suit regarding it. They cannot be fixed and a new unit is circa £2,000. You will hear a whirring noise when using the brakes (with the ignition on). Without the ignition on when squeezing the brake lever it will feel like you don't have any brake pressure - this is what will happen when the unit fails as well.
The ABS prior to this was fairly simple and most of the issues seem to be electric related (low voltage in the battery etc) so i'd definitely rather have it than not.
Clutches are circa £150/200 in parts and hideously expensive in labor unless you have a lot of space, time and tools to do it yourself - the bike basically has to be split in two.
Regardless of what you go for budget for front and rear suspension upgrades - unless they've previously been upgraded they WILL be shot.
I believe that sort of age BMW are relatively solid - certainly much better than the 2000's models.
Avoid like the absolute plague going for anything with servo assist ABS (made around 2002 to 2007). They can and do fail and you will loose something like 90% braking power - people have allegedly been killed by it, in Germany I believe there was some sort of class action suit regarding it. They cannot be fixed and a new unit is circa £2,000. You will hear a whirring noise when using the brakes (with the ignition on). Without the ignition on when squeezing the brake lever it will feel like you don't have any brake pressure - this is what will happen when the unit fails as well.
The ABS prior to this was fairly simple and most of the issues seem to be electric related (low voltage in the battery etc) so i'd definitely rather have it than not.
Clutches are circa £150/200 in parts and hideously expensive in labor unless you have a lot of space, time and tools to do it yourself - the bike basically has to be split in two.
Regardless of what you go for budget for front and rear suspension upgrades - unless they've previously been upgraded they WILL be shot.
The servo (Integral ABS) can be removed. Google tells me that Motorworks sell a kit.
https://www.motorworks.co.uk/vlive/Shop/Parts.php?...
EDIT:
Found a video >>>> https://youtube.com/watch?v=mLrn45PJD_c
https://www.motorworks.co.uk/vlive/Shop/Parts.php?...
EDIT:
Found a video >>>> https://youtube.com/watch?v=mLrn45PJD_c
Edited by gareth_r on Wednesday 17th November 14:01
Changing the clutch is a pain and does involve quite a lots of work but its not the most difficult work. It can be done on the bikes center stand if required. I managed it and I'm not the worlds most skilled.
you need a clutch alignment tool (about a tenner)
If you have a garage, a decent socket set with big Allen key heads and a spare day you'll get it done for the cost of the parts.
you need a clutch alignment tool (about a tenner)
If you have a garage, a decent socket set with big Allen key heads and a spare day you'll get it done for the cost of the parts.
eBay put up a mid 90s R1100 up as a serving suggestion that caught my eye and a PHer said a good rider on one can keep up with a sportsbike. Looking at adverts for them I saw at least two that had had their clutches replaced. One was Brighton way and seems it had been stored for years before being put on sale and I think having had the clutch replaced.
Waiting for one to appear for sale that's already had the clutch replaced could be a long wait.
Waiting for one to appear for sale that's already had the clutch replaced could be a long wait.
I have an R1100 albeit an S which I absolutely love, it's from a time when BMW was a premium quality product.
The 1100 and 1150 can cover huge mileages with basic servicing but like any bike there are a few things to keep an eye on.
The dry clutch is like a car, yes it wears but a common failure is the slave cylinder which leaks inside the casing and contaminates the plate, its good insurance to replace the cylinder.
Not all bikes have abs, if it has and it plays up it can be removed. Note tired batteries can cause abs issues and the warning lights will flash until you ride off.
The oil level sight glass can go manky, leaky and occasionally fall out altogether. It's cheap and easy to replace.
With the bike on the centre stand check the rear wheel bearings for play, a bit of movement isn't a problem but make sure any play isn't in the final drive joints, not the end of the world but something to be aware of.
Random electrical issues can be caused by the bio-degradable wiring loom covering literally falling to bits exposing the wiring, easy to check around the switchgear and particularly around the headstock. It can be successfully rewrapped but its a faff.
Then there's the Hall sensor, fuel pump, brake discs...........
Blimey reading all that I think I should sell mine lol
They are wonderful charismatic machines that get under your skin, buy a nice one and I'm sure you'll agree.
The 1100 and 1150 can cover huge mileages with basic servicing but like any bike there are a few things to keep an eye on.
The dry clutch is like a car, yes it wears but a common failure is the slave cylinder which leaks inside the casing and contaminates the plate, its good insurance to replace the cylinder.
Not all bikes have abs, if it has and it plays up it can be removed. Note tired batteries can cause abs issues and the warning lights will flash until you ride off.
The oil level sight glass can go manky, leaky and occasionally fall out altogether. It's cheap and easy to replace.
With the bike on the centre stand check the rear wheel bearings for play, a bit of movement isn't a problem but make sure any play isn't in the final drive joints, not the end of the world but something to be aware of.
Random electrical issues can be caused by the bio-degradable wiring loom covering literally falling to bits exposing the wiring, easy to check around the switchgear and particularly around the headstock. It can be successfully rewrapped but its a faff.
Then there's the Hall sensor, fuel pump, brake discs...........
Blimey reading all that I think I should sell mine lol
They are wonderful charismatic machines that get under your skin, buy a nice one and I'm sure you'll agree.
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