Which R1200RT?
Discussion
I think I have settled on an R1200RT as my next bike.
I have thought about loads of others including GTR 1400, FJR 1300, ST 1300 as well as K1300S, VFR 1200 etc but the R1200RT seems to offer the best all round package.
I have seen a nice 2012 MU with 40k at £5250 that has the audio package and sat nav. There is also a 2009 with 30k that has the standard spec without nav and audio for £4500.
Condition seem similar and good service history.
Is the MU worth the extra money?
Thanks
I have thought about loads of others including GTR 1400, FJR 1300, ST 1300 as well as K1300S, VFR 1200 etc but the R1200RT seems to offer the best all round package.
I have seen a nice 2012 MU with 40k at £5250 that has the audio package and sat nav. There is also a 2009 with 30k that has the standard spec without nav and audio for £4500.
Condition seem similar and good service history.
Is the MU worth the extra money?
Thanks
Sat Nav has moved on a long way since 2012 and audio is pretty easy to deal with yourself. If they are going to be the deciding reasons for paying more money then do confirm you're actually getting what would be expected in 2021 rather than 2012.
Beyond that, it's the usual issues for BMWs of that age. Has the switch gear been replaced? Is the final drive or engine paint still there?
Beyond that, it's the usual issues for BMWs of that age. Has the switch gear been replaced? Is the final drive or engine paint still there?
Really valid points.
I guess having the stereo and BMW sat nav is just a ‘desire’ and ease thing.
The MU also has good quality peg lowering kit and screen fitted which I think are useful.
Both very similar in terms of servicing and aesthetics and appear to be in good condition.
If the general consensus is that there is not much difference between the pre and post 2010 bikes then I guess price is the deciding factor if both bikes were ‘identical’.
Not much on the internet from my research about which way most would go.
I guess having the stereo and BMW sat nav is just a ‘desire’ and ease thing.
The MU also has good quality peg lowering kit and screen fitted which I think are useful.
Both very similar in terms of servicing and aesthetics and appear to be in good condition.
If the general consensus is that there is not much difference between the pre and post 2010 bikes then I guess price is the deciding factor if both bikes were ‘identical’.
Not much on the internet from my research about which way most would go.
Different engines. ‘Hexhead’ was up until about 2010, then ‘Camhead’ up to 2013. Later model has a bit more torque through the rev range, and fuelling meant to be better. Nothing wrong with the early ones, but the later engine is a bit nicer. My Dad’s 2013 GS is much, much smoother than his 2006 RT or my old 2006 GSA.
For all BMWs it seems the later in the development you go the better.
Look at for corrosion as the RT really doesn’t like not being looking after… front of the engine, the heads, front and rear shock, wheels and final drive. ACF50 will stop it but once it’s set in it only gets worse unless you remove and powder coat. Anecdotally the later ones have a better finish, although that’s not saying much.
Check the ESA works, although you can rebuild the shocks if necessary.
You also really need to make sure it’s had regular final drive oil changes. Some people skip them, in my experience they need to be done every 6000 miles, and check to see that the shaft splines have been greased. Check that there’s no oil/ water in or around the rubber final drive ‘boots’.
There is a fantastic online community for the boxer BMWs, and the forums have practically every guide and walkthrough you can think of.
For all BMWs it seems the later in the development you go the better.
Look at for corrosion as the RT really doesn’t like not being looking after… front of the engine, the heads, front and rear shock, wheels and final drive. ACF50 will stop it but once it’s set in it only gets worse unless you remove and powder coat. Anecdotally the later ones have a better finish, although that’s not saying much.
Check the ESA works, although you can rebuild the shocks if necessary.
You also really need to make sure it’s had regular final drive oil changes. Some people skip them, in my experience they need to be done every 6000 miles, and check to see that the shaft splines have been greased. Check that there’s no oil/ water in or around the rubber final drive ‘boots’.
There is a fantastic online community for the boxer BMWs, and the forums have practically every guide and walkthrough you can think of.
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/bike-details/20210915...
This is the MU I like which I think has most of the common issues rectified.
This is the MU I like which I think has most of the common issues rectified.
junglie said:
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/bike-details/20210915...
This is the MU I like which I think has most of the common issues rectified.
That's a good price, need more pics to check for corrosion.This is the MU I like which I think has most of the common issues rectified.
I am on the opposite side of others. I preferred the air cooled version, simple to work on etc. Check when the WC came out as there were some issues when first launched. I am however biased as I have had GS's since 1984 and as I have aged I much prefer the simplicity.
Look at UKGSER website to get better information.
Charlie Croker mk2 said:
If at all possible get the water cooled circa 2014/15 onward model , better in every way you can think of . All the comments about corrosion on neglected bike still apply LOL .
I would love the newer bike but it won’t fit the budget. Well I suppose I could by then into the ‘....if I just add a little more.......’ and I have a brand new K1600 (not that it would be a bad thing mind)!Gassing Station | Biker Banter | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff