help please problems with caliper rebuild
Discussion
well I started it today, fking hell its went tits up over and over again.
couldnt crack the bolts that hold the caliper together, no biggy pop to halfords again to get 6mm socket piece for my wrench.
everything back on track untill I tried to pump the pistons out, one came out the rest just wouldnt budge. I tried pulling them out they wouldnt budge.
had to pop to a local garage where I know one of the mechanics. Slipped him a tenner and tried getting them out with air. By christ they just wouldnt come out after half an hour got them out. I dont think the seals have ever been changed and the bikes 13 year old
Now im soaking them in de-greaser, ive got the dust seals off no problem (crusted with crap they were) but cant get the piston seals out. Ive been all around falkirk looking for a right angle pick. Cant find one anywhere.
also how do I clean the areas where the seals sit. they are full of salt and crap.
how clean do the pistons need to be there is a small amount of corrosion on some.
thanks.
couldnt crack the bolts that hold the caliper together, no biggy pop to halfords again to get 6mm socket piece for my wrench.
everything back on track untill I tried to pump the pistons out, one came out the rest just wouldnt budge. I tried pulling them out they wouldnt budge.
had to pop to a local garage where I know one of the mechanics. Slipped him a tenner and tried getting them out with air. By christ they just wouldnt come out after half an hour got them out. I dont think the seals have ever been changed and the bikes 13 year old
Now im soaking them in de-greaser, ive got the dust seals off no problem (crusted with crap they were) but cant get the piston seals out. Ive been all around falkirk looking for a right angle pick. Cant find one anywhere.
also how do I clean the areas where the seals sit. they are full of salt and crap.
how clean do the pistons need to be there is a small amount of corrosion on some.
thanks.
A small zip tie can work if you can force it behind the old seals to lever them out, or a wooden tooth pick. Just to use something softer than the caliper metal so you don't damage the seal area. If you are careful enough I suppose you could use a pin to stab and remove the seals if they are really stuck but try not to touch the metal.
Some really fine emery cloth to get rid of the corrosion, but if it's bad then it'll need new pistons as the corrosion will damage the seals. Make sure you have some red rubber grease or if not, some new fluid to lubricate the pistons when you push them back in.
Put copper grease on your bolts when putting it back together so they come apart easier when you do this again. I can't remember which bolts I added loctite to since it's been a while since I've done mine but someone will tell you in a min.
Hope that helps
Some really fine emery cloth to get rid of the corrosion, but if it's bad then it'll need new pistons as the corrosion will damage the seals. Make sure you have some red rubber grease or if not, some new fluid to lubricate the pistons when you push them back in.
Put copper grease on your bolts when putting it back together so they come apart easier when you do this again. I can't remember which bolts I added loctite to since it's been a while since I've done mine but someone will tell you in a min.
Hope that helps
Get a small screwdriver or hook and scrape the fk out of them. Get some wetndry sandpaper and use the screwdriver to clean the grooves out. Don't worry about damaging them too much as the seals will cover any issues and the crud is softer than the aluminium.
That piston is fine. Just get some wetndry on it and clean the crap off. Even if there are scores or nicks at the top it'll be ok as the seal doesn't go there.
That piston is fine. Just get some wetndry on it and clean the crap off. Even if there are scores or nicks at the top it'll be ok as the seal doesn't go there.
6 pot Tokicos? A little bit late, but maybe worth noting for the next time around- I found a local bike mechanic had a couple of sets on his shelf as an exchange such was the turn. By the time I'd factored in my hourly rate & the cost of replacing the seals from Kawasaki (£70+ per caliper IIRC) it was cheaper to grab them on exchange.
VidalBaboon said:
6 pot Tokicos? A little bit late, but maybe worth noting for the next time around- I found a local bike mechanic had a couple of sets on his shelf as an exchange such was the turn. By the time I'd factored in my hourly rate & the cost of replacing the seals from Kawasaki (£70+ per caliper IIRC) it was cheaper to grab them on exchange.
Or replace with Suzuki 4 pots, did you miss the bit in a previous post where I said you can use a rawlbolt to remove stuck pistons with little effort Clean them in hot soapy (washing up liquid) water.
Use a toothbrush or dish brush and non-stick scouring pad.
Do not use anything abrasive!!
Cif is good for cleaning the pistons when used with a non-stick scouring pad - just don't scrub too hard.
Dry everything thoroughly.
Reassemble using only brake fluid as a lubricant (You can get special lubricant but it really isn't necessery).
Use a toothbrush or dish brush and non-stick scouring pad.
Do not use anything abrasive!!
Cif is good for cleaning the pistons when used with a non-stick scouring pad - just don't scrub too hard.
Dry everything thoroughly.
Reassemble using only brake fluid as a lubricant (You can get special lubricant but it really isn't necessery).
The crystally stuff is a combination of brake fluid, salt, aluminium corrosion and good old fashioned dirt.
Get in about it with an old pen-knife or a bent screwdriver and just scrape it out; the metal underneath is rarely fked enough to need the calipers replaced.
Personally, I use an engineers scribe that I picked up in B&Q for 50p! It is hardened steel and has a right-angle at one end which helps get "round the corner" to do a good job.
When you're putting it all back together, fill the seal beds with red-rubber grease first; it stops any crud, salt and, in particular, brake fluid getting in behind and causing new corrosion. It is actually the corrosion pushing seals out of the caliper and squeezing them against the pistons that causes most binding issues.
As you put the new seals in, they will push the excess grease out and you can just wipe it away with your finger and on to the piston before you put it in again.
Regarding the pistons, a green pan scrub from tesco will do a great job of cleaning them up.
If you are ever doing it again, don't allow any one piston to pop out by itself; take the pads out first, then put a long, slim piece of metal in their place (I use a cheapo tyre lever maybe 4mm thick). Pump the lever until the pistons all move out and up to the bar; this means they are all nearly out so when you come to split the caliper the pistons can usually be worked out with just your fingers by rocking them backwards and forwards.
Get in about it with an old pen-knife or a bent screwdriver and just scrape it out; the metal underneath is rarely fked enough to need the calipers replaced.
Personally, I use an engineers scribe that I picked up in B&Q for 50p! It is hardened steel and has a right-angle at one end which helps get "round the corner" to do a good job.
When you're putting it all back together, fill the seal beds with red-rubber grease first; it stops any crud, salt and, in particular, brake fluid getting in behind and causing new corrosion. It is actually the corrosion pushing seals out of the caliper and squeezing them against the pistons that causes most binding issues.
As you put the new seals in, they will push the excess grease out and you can just wipe it away with your finger and on to the piston before you put it in again.
Regarding the pistons, a green pan scrub from tesco will do a great job of cleaning them up.
If you are ever doing it again, don't allow any one piston to pop out by itself; take the pads out first, then put a long, slim piece of metal in their place (I use a cheapo tyre lever maybe 4mm thick). Pump the lever until the pistons all move out and up to the bar; this means they are all nearly out so when you come to split the caliper the pistons can usually be worked out with just your fingers by rocking them backwards and forwards.
moanthebairns said:
might just invest in a bath then.
how much is it for a decent one and where do you get them.
Jazoli got mine from Aldi for me. I think it was less than £25.how much is it for a decent one and where do you get them.
Take your time and don't panic, if it all goes to pot buy some 2nd hand calipers and try again.
What you learn and the experience you gain will stand you in good stead for the rest of your life mechanical wise.
You'll laugh about this in years to come and wonder why you got in such a kerfuffle.
Just remember its only nuts, bolts and rubber. The hard job is designing stuff like this.
Rubin215 said:
When you're putting it all back together, fill the seal beds with red-rubber grease first; it stops any crud, salt and, in particular, brake fluid getting in
If you are ever doing it again, don't allow any one piston to pop out by itself; take the pads out first, then put a long, slim piece of metal in their place (I use a cheapo tyre lever maybe 4mm thick). Pump the lever until the pistons all move out and up to the bar; this means they are all nearly out so when you come to split the caliper the pistons can usually be worked out with just your fingers by rocking them backwards and forwards.
Good advice.If you are ever doing it again, don't allow any one piston to pop out by itself; take the pads out first, then put a long, slim piece of metal in their place (I use a cheapo tyre lever maybe 4mm thick). Pump the lever until the pistons all move out and up to the bar; this means they are all nearly out so when you come to split the caliper the pistons can usually be worked out with just your fingers by rocking them backwards and forwards.
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