The friendly "dumb" bike questions thread
Discussion
AceOfHearts said:
A500leroy said:
60k mile SV650, Would you or should I avoid?
Depends how cheap it is and what you want it for!Personally I would have thought that I nice low mileage SV650 would still be pretty inexpensive, so a high miler would have to be very cheap to make worth while.
A500leroy said:
Sunday bike for sale at £1800, year 2005, equipped with Renthal bars, upgraded LED lights and indicators, heated grips, GSXR spring/shock, complete history, new headstock bearings, new discs/pads, new chain and sprockets, new Michelin street tyres, Delkevic full system, new MOT, no advisories.
I sold a 2017 one with 6k miles for £3k a couple of years ago so that sounds expensive but the used bike market makes no sense.A500leroy said:
Sunday bike for sale at £1800, year 2005, equipped with Renthal bars, upgraded LED lights and indicators, heated grips, GSXR spring/shock, complete history, new headstock bearings, new discs/pads, new chain and sprockets, new Michelin street tyres, Delkevic full system, new MOT, no advisories.
Have you got the mechanical/electrical skills to assess how well the light upgrades and suspension changes have been done?A500leroy said:
Sunday bike for sale at £1800, year 2005, equipped with Renthal bars, upgraded LED lights and indicators, heated grips, GSXR spring/shock, complete history, new headstock bearings, new discs/pads, new chain and sprockets, new Michelin street tyres, Delkevic full system, new MOT, no advisories.
No one chucks that about of money at an SV650 unless it has been in fairly rubbish condition to start with, either neglected or crashed.Personally I would say walk away unless you are comfortable making a proper mechanical inspection of the bike.
There are so many other SV650's around, why pay a premium price for one that someone else has mucked around with?
I have the original tyres on my 2014 Bonneville… MOT was Thursday and the guy noticed the date stamp and said it may be worthwhile changing them.
They seem OK to me but is there a general consensus on when tyres need to be changed for time reasons?
I ride probably 2000 miles a year on sunny days only, no commuting or anything.
They seem OK to me but is there a general consensus on when tyres need to be changed for time reasons?
I ride probably 2000 miles a year on sunny days only, no commuting or anything.
The general consensus - by the people who want to sell you new ones - is 10 years
Certainly as they age they lose grip but that's mostly due to UV exposure
It very much depends on how they are stored and what you use it for
I would change a tyre when it starts cracking or if it's old and on a Sports bike but otherwise as long as you're aware of it I wouldn't worry
Certainly as they age they lose grip but that's mostly due to UV exposure
It very much depends on how they are stored and what you use it for
I would change a tyre when it starts cracking or if it's old and on a Sports bike but otherwise as long as you're aware of it I wouldn't worry
Biker 1 said:
I thought tyres should be changed after 5 years according to manufacturer recommendations (???) I suppose if said bike is kept in a garage out of the sun, tyres should last longer, but 10 years seems a bit much....
I had heard 7 years, so somewhere in the middle 
Saying that my newly acquired 2002 BMW F650CS still has its original front tyre and I have done 1000 miles on it so far without issue! I will get it replaced before winter though.
So bike starts up fine today and moved off in first for a few yards then completely cuts out. Back into neutral and again fires up fine down to first few seconds later cuts out tried it three or 4 times and same result so I threw the towel in and took for wife's car 😔 side stand was up
HybridTheory said:
So bike starts up fine today and moved off in first for a few yards then completely cuts out. Back into neutral and again fires up fine down to first few seconds later cuts out tried it three or 4 times and same result so I threw the towel in and took for wife's car ?? side stand was up
Side stand switch may be iffy.can a dinged rim be repaired?
to give an idea of how dinged - run out is about 4-5mm side to side and 5-6mm on the surface where the tyre seals on the rim. So it's both not straight and no longer round.
I've been told it would have to be heated and then 'hit' into shape.....which doesn't fill me with confidence. They can't use the press as it's a bike wheel. This at your typical alloy (car based) repair shop. Then because of heating will need to be refurbed.
A new one is getting on for £900 when you include vat. Thanks triumph.
Thanks also to whichever council is responsible for the pot hole laden roads down the side of loch lomond.
to give an idea of how dinged - run out is about 4-5mm side to side and 5-6mm on the surface where the tyre seals on the rim. So it's both not straight and no longer round.
I've been told it would have to be heated and then 'hit' into shape.....which doesn't fill me with confidence. They can't use the press as it's a bike wheel. This at your typical alloy (car based) repair shop. Then because of heating will need to be refurbed.
A new one is getting on for £900 when you include vat. Thanks triumph.
Thanks also to whichever council is responsible for the pot hole laden roads down the side of loch lomond.
leighz said:
can a dinged rim be repaired?
to give an idea of how dinged - run out is about 4-5mm side to side and 5-6mm on the surface where the tyre seals on the rim. So it's both not straight and no longer round.
I've been told it would have to be heated and then 'hit' into shape.....which doesn't fill me with confidence. They can't use the press as it's a bike wheel. This at your typical alloy (car based) repair shop. Then because of heating will need to be refurbed.
A new one is getting on for £900 when you include vat. Thanks triumph.
Thanks also to whichever council is responsible for the pot hole laden roads down the side of loch lomond.
As painful as it is I'd bite the bullet and get a new wheel or perhaps use it as an excuse to upgrade to a forged Dymag or OZ.to give an idea of how dinged - run out is about 4-5mm side to side and 5-6mm on the surface where the tyre seals on the rim. So it's both not straight and no longer round.
I've been told it would have to be heated and then 'hit' into shape.....which doesn't fill me with confidence. They can't use the press as it's a bike wheel. This at your typical alloy (car based) repair shop. Then because of heating will need to be refurbed.
A new one is getting on for £900 when you include vat. Thanks triumph.
Thanks also to whichever council is responsible for the pot hole laden roads down the side of loch lomond.
By the time its been straightened and painted you will be looking at £200+.
The heating process essentially makes the wheel softer so it won't be as strong. I.e. prone to getting another ding. Some people get jumpy about the safety which is a consideration too.
I also think the runout will be a bigger issue than the ding to fix.
Biker 1 said:
I thought tyres should be changed after 5 years according to manufacturer recommendations (???) I suppose if said bike is kept in a garage out of the sun, tyres should last longer, but 10 years seems a bit much....
No tyres can be sold as "new" for 5 years after manufacture Gassing Station | Biker Banter | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff