E30 M3 as a rep mobile?

E30 M3 as a rep mobile?

Author
Discussion

simon clark

Original Poster:

306 posts

255 months

Sunday 7th March 2004
quotequote all
Hi All,

I am considering replacing my work car, an E36 318 for an E30 M3. Not sure if it would be wise so a few questions I need answered first if anyone can help?

1. Do about 25k miles a year, how regular does it need servicing and approx costs - reliability etc?
2. Sit at 80 on motorways for most of that, what kind of fuel consumption can I expect? This is important as my work only pay 10p per mile.
3. Can I take a standard one on track or will it fry the brakes etc?

What can I expect to pay for a 100K mile early one, in good condition?

Any advice would be massively appreciated.

Cheers

Simon

mrflibbles

7,711 posts

290 months

Sunday 7th March 2004
quotequote all
I was at an e30 show on saturday - loads of e30 m3s.

Not sure about practicality but a few where for sale - prices from £6k upwards - most around the £8k mark.

dcb

5,911 posts

272 months

Monday 8th March 2004
quotequote all
simon clark said:
Hi All,

I am considering replacing my work car, an E36 318 for an E30 M3. Not sure if it would be wise so a few questions I need answered first if anyone can help?


Sounds like a spoof article to me, but here goes.

Why swap a perfectly reasonable little runabout for a serious high performance machine, most of which performance you will never use on UK roads ?

simon clark said:

1. Do about 25k miles a year, how regular does it need servicing and approx costs - reliability etc?


Exect servicing an M3 to be a lot more expensive than a 318. Chat to your dealer about it.

simon clark said:

2. Sit at 80 on motorways for most of that, what kind of fuel consumption can I expect? This is important as my work only pay 10p per mile.


20 mpg ? It is a 155 mph 300 BHP sport car.

simon clark said:

3. Can I take a standard one on track or will it fry the brakes etc?


You can take it on the track, but you will only fry the brakes if you over do it.

simon clark

Original Poster:

306 posts

255 months

Monday 8th March 2004
quotequote all
"Why swap a perfectly reasonable little runabout for a serious high performance machine, most of which performance you will never use on UK roads ?"

Because I guess my approach to cars is no different to
anyother PHer!

I also have a TVR for fun and trackdays, but I would like a work car that could offer trackday fun when I don't want the expense of the TVR, and given I spend so much time in the work car, I fancy something a bit special.

So perhaps I should rephrase the original post "advice wanted from current or previous E30 M3 owners"

The main criteria is that it returns around 30 mpg on a long run at motorway speeds, obviously i expect 20 mpg in normal driving. As for 300bhp, think I go for a standard one with 200 - 220 bhp but thanks for the suggestion!

Use to own a 2.8 straight six E36 and could get 28mpg on long runs and that was auto - wondered if the 2.3 4 pot in the E30 M3 would be any better?

Cheers

Simon

Mags

1,139 posts

286 months

Monday 8th March 2004
quotequote all
Well, As a previous and current owner of an E30 M3, here goes..

Where to start?
You will probably need to pay about £8k upwards to get a decent one.
Remember these are up to 17 year old cars now and possibly have various issues that go along with this, driven hard, not looked after etc etc.
The mileage is pretty high for what is basically a track car but I used my old one for commuting doing over 10K a year and it gave me no problems. The biggest problem in my eyes is that the parts for the engine (not fitted to any other BMW) are hideously expensive in some areas, regular servicing is a must and so is a FSH preferably at a Dealer or a known BMW M3 garage (such as Mosleys etc)
The engines are robust but need constant care, there is some debate over the timing gear/chain needing replacement at 100K miles and this is a pricey job, not least because the parts are dear.
Other things associated with older cars are also dear as well, £120 for plug leads, over £100 for a dizzy cap and so on. Some parts are also NLA making it more tricky to keep in tip-top shape.
In terms of daily driving, the ride is hard and there is not a lot of umph under 4K rpm, the car was built to rev high and handle well and that is exactly what it does.
Don't underestimate the running costs, I just bought a very late car knowing a few jobs needed doing, now I have poked around in more detail I have found other odds and sods that need doing also and so the game goes on. Its a kind of addiction not associated with a normal daily driver and it can suck you in, so be careful.
There are also a whole bunch of common issues to look for that you can find on the various web sites and forums of these cars. If you do buy one, do some homework first, look at plently and try to get some expert opinion to avoid buying a mess.
Not trying to put you off but I don't think they are the sort of cars that can be abused.
Hope this helps?

Mags

Mags

1,139 posts

286 months

Monday 8th March 2004
quotequote all
Forgot your other questions:

MPG, On the M'way it should be quite good, maybe mid to high 20's?
Servicing, at that mileage I don't know, an oil service is maybe £100, inspection 1 or 2 could be up to or over £500 assuming nothing serious needs doing (i've paid over £1K easily in the past though, and not at a dealer!)
Track days, these cars were built for the track, but of course its going to take its toll on tyres and so on, I think a common mod is a baffled sump for those long corners and the risk of oil starvation.

Mags

simon clark

Original Poster:

306 posts

255 months

Monday 8th March 2004
quotequote all
Many thanks for all your useful advice, am really keen to own one.

Many thanks

Simon

fergus

6,430 posts

282 months

Monday 8th March 2004
quotequote all
If you do baffle your sump, make sure that whoever does it understands the oil flow of the car and ensures that the oil pickup can get enough volume, or consider an accusump system. I've seen an engine (tuned evo sport) get starved of oil cos a bit of the baffle broke away and blocked the oil feed - due to crap welding. Not ideal unless you want a very expensive rebuild.

As for brakes, use castrol SRF fluid, braided hoses, pagid pags (not 'fast road') and the standard discs. You'll be fine. Remove the backing plates from the disc to allow cool air in. Also, stand on the brakes, don't use them as you would on the road - this is what generates heat. Remove the ABS relay and you're far more in control - or make a dash mounted switch to disable the ABS -it's quicker in the long run.